<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">O.K. I'll give you guys a summary. When I bought the truck it ; rough idle, bad miss, diesel in oil, Not Smoking though. I'm new to diesel but with the help of u guys, I found broken lifter retainer and bent pushrods. 2 dead cylinders. So I took head to machine shop, new lifters and pushrods on passenger bank and 2 rebuilt injectors just to be safe. I then replaced ALL injector o-rings and it stopped leaking diesel into oil. Now truck runs 200% better but still a little miss at low rpms till the turbo kicks in hard at about 2500rpms and then it stops smoking. I found it had a faulty glow plug relay. Then a week later I found ETHER!!!! under the seat. So I beleive the previous dumb fluck may have (cracked a ring, bent a connecting rod?, ect,...) starting it with ETHER!!!!
. THE SMOKE IS DEFINATELY OIL.( BLUE)
p.s. I will take the comp test as soon as possible. Thank You All Very Much,
Desy Q.
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I DID COMPRESSION TESTS TODAY HERE THEY ARE; 280, 400, 290, 400

 

THIS IS THE PASSENGER BANK ONLY. Because prior to changing the two CENTER cylinder pushrods and injectors it did not smoke. again the comp test is ;front
.
.
cylinder to back cylinder ... . 280 400 290 400
(had bent pushrods)

 

hmm, thats not good, how long have you driven it since you started it up first time? did you redo the comp test wet on the low cylinders?

 

i've put about 300 miles on it since all the work. When i removed the glow plugs it seemed as if they were covered in oil. thanks for the any help. I'm scheduled to yank her out tomorrow. I plan to , (don't laugh guys) change whatever pistons/rings are bad have heads reworked , check bearings maybe new oil pump but not much more as i don't drive the truck i just park it with a big sign i made on the bed.

.. Thanks , Desy

 

i would air the cylinders up to see if its blow by or getting past the valves

 

the glow plugs get covered in oil when you pull them out due to the design of the head. a little puddle forms at the head of it and as soon as its loose it all rushes into the glow plug. hole. i hope your not pulling your motor for that. i would recheck your comp test again. that second back cylinder(4) looks great which makes me think so should the (6) cylinder. usually those are the lower two of the four due to dusting. and 4 is ok so imo i would drive it like you stole it!!!!!!

 

Thank you guys, but it is smoking like a bat outta hell !!!! and keep in mind something must have hydro-locked it to cause the bent pushrods, broken lifter retainers it had when i bought it, . It smokes bad, and for the record i did see that the oil puddles on top of the glow plug before takin it out but when i got it out it was super soaked,.... i don't know?? Thank you for mentioning it though. i looked at the exhaust and the joint behind the engine was covered in wet oil? I really think the truck had a bad glow plug relay and they ran the pliss out of it on ether, LOL. Oh and yes i did replace the two injectors correspondind to the two cylinders with bent push rods. Every thing under the valve cover looks good so far. Thank you for ideas. As far as valves leaking, I took that head to machine shop and had it checked and milled flat so,...... next LOL. thank you guys. i realy wish i could buy yal a round. Desy

 

i will recheck comp again tomorrow before i pull it . thank you

 

those things can get bent pretty easy from over revving. turbo seals shot?

 

Ok fellow gear heads here it is. Motor is out and MAN is it heavy!!! I pulled the pistons that tested low compression and well it hurts to be right. Both pistons have BENT connecting rods!!!! One has cracked in the skirt right below the pin as well. So I expected a ring cracked or a hole in piston but wow ! Anyway where do you guys recomend I buy the parts to get her back together? Keep in mind this is not my daily driver and it ran great considering( smoking and moderate loss of power),,,,,... So i will see my machinist friend monday and hope he likes what I have left to patch up. This truck is a 97 350 and I built a sign that lights up on the flat bed for my tree business. It spends alot of time parked. I do intend to do bearings, oil pump, yata yata yata. Not complete overhaul though. Thank you for ALL your help. Desy

 

I would also check the cam lobes. The loss of the lifter retainer could of allowed for a lifter to twist and cause some damage to a lobe.

Also remember that if you tamper with the cam gear (press fit). You have to check installed depth and back lash. The gear sets the air gap for the CPS.

Bill

 

ok guys,.... engine is out and the 2 cylinders that had 290 compression turned out to have bent connecting rods!!!! Where do you recommend I buy the parts i will need . thank you all, Desy

 

Well that depends. Are you going to just repair or go for a full rebuild? Actually either way I would buy new parts from IH. if you are going for a full rebuild I would do the same or buy a used engine and swap that in. Either way Ford or IH are your best bet for stock parts.

 

Thanks Bill, I didn't realize that. I have the block almost completely stripped as it i s on its way to the machine shop. Should I reuse pistons that appear to be ok? I want you guys feedback on what I should change regardless of condition. Like cam? crank? oil pump? water pump? Crank sensor? Hpop? Turbo? Fuel pump? Glow plugs? injectors(oh ****h), What is it going to cost me? The cylinder walls look great. I'm assuming I'll spend around 2,500 to 4,000 right?

 

a rebuild kit with pistons will be just under $1000 from here

http://catalog.powerstrokeshop.com/p...&subcat1=85604

As for needed machining I would let the machine shop make the call on cylinders and the crank. Also have them measure the cam to check for wear. if they give them a clear bill of health a light hone on the cylinders will be good but mroe than likely you will atleast end up .010 over.

oil pump-new in kit
Water pump- new
Cam sensor-new only $20
HPOP- reuse if good
Turbo- reuse if good
Glow plugs-new
Injectors- reuse if good

I would guess you will be $2500 or under depending on machine shop costs.