What to look for buying a 7.3 ? *and* What to do before starting after sat for 4 yrs

[shawnc]

I've spent the night pouring over the posts, as I am going to check out a '93 van with a 7.3 in the morning. I didn't think I would find a diesel, so I haven't done the research previously.

The person selling the van got it from an employee of a pool (maint?)company that owned it. It hasn't run in 4 yrs. or so; starter is being replaced. He said it's a '92 or '93, but that may not be correct. It's at least '92 from the body type. He doesn't know the miles on it. He's asking $4,500.
I've asked to be put in contact with previous owners to get a more complete story.

What are the things to look for when purchasing a 7.3?

After sitting for years, my concerns before start up are:
1) fuel tank rust-how to check for this without opening tank?
2) fuel contamination-is this what diesel kleen is for? how much to add? if it sat for years should i consider draining the tank? how to dispose of fuel?
3) hand crank engine to lubricate-
4) is older battery o.k. or can it harm system of glow plugs,etc?
5) seals-will they fail right away, or possibly crack after a few hundred miles?
6) injector pump seals? IPs cost like $1000 if I heard right.
7) brake pistons lubed to prevent seizure
8) ???

What is the minimum ($) to do before starting and testdriving.

What considerations should be done soon thereafter(within a hundred miles or so after purchase)?

I hope to check posts on the way to where I will look at the vehicle. Any responses will be greatly appreciated. I may be able to work on it over the course of a day or two.

Thank You Kindly

[ELBEE 1]

Offer him 1500, and get in and drive away!

[PLC7.3]

There is a good possibility of Bio matter growth in the fuel. Draining the tank and replacing the fuel filter can get most out..... you may have to use a Biocide but be carefull the stuff can injure you too.

New batteries 2 are required..... minimum 850 CCA each, they are different sizes, one is visible other is under floor.

Most seal will be fine.....

IPs cost a lot less than $1000...... it may be ok if the water in the fuel system was drained regularly.

Brake pistons should be ok.... unless up to the fender in grass for the past years......

Check the oil level and condition if it is green there is a coolant leak, check coolant for oil also........

If the engine will not turn with a good set of batteries and starter then hydrolock may have happened....... Cavitation!!!!

I would not even try to start it personally ...... but if it can be cranked over fast...... and starts up that would be a bonus. I would consider having it towed or trailered home to eliminate any surprises on the road.

If it was a running daily used vehicle in good condition his price may be ok....... but being parked makes me wonder if there are not deeper problems.....

Check the door post tag for build date.... after Aug 92 up to May 93 it would be a 93 for sure..... http://www.vehicleidentificationnumber.com/

[starmilt]

we have a dry climate here every one I've dealt with that had been parked return line o rings had dried out and had to be replaced but they always started th price is way out of line for around here though.

[shawnc]

I brought a friend who has a pressure tester which tests the coolant system and will detect head/gasket problems.

I spoke to a diesel mech. who as soon as I said it needed a new starter replied that he would bet money that the rear cylinder walls which are very thin had cracked and fluid had entered the cylinder, causing the piston to stop dead (hydrolock?) and result in a broken starter, so check for damage to the starter he said, "Nobody let's a vehicle sit like that for a broken starter."

Starter looks and functions o.k. off the vehicle. Still figuring this one out.
Thanks for offering all the suggestions.

[1978fordf250]

maybe somethign is wrong withthe motor? I know you can screw up starters by crankign these motors over for to long. You can only turn over for 15sec then let it cool off for 20-3 minutes. that could have happend.
jimmy

[Finnzo]

Originally Posted by shawnc

I brought a friend who has a pressure tester which tests the coolant system and will detect head/gasket problems.

I spoke to a diesel mech. who as soon as I said it needed a new starter replied that he would bet money that the rear cylinder walls which are very thin had cracked and fluid had entered the cylinder, causing the piston to stop dead (hydrolock?) and result in a broken starter, so check for damage to the starter he said, "Nobody let's a vehicle sit like that for a broken starter."

Starter looks and functions o.k. off the vehicle. Still figuring this one out.
Thanks for offering all the suggestions.

I wouldn't put money on that! Especially if it's from a motor pool. That means a large organization owned it, and large organizations are always a bit loose with stuff like that, the bigger they get the worse they are -- whether they're governments or corporations -- the dime belongs to everyone and no one so nobody watches the dime. I could see a 15-year-old rig getting forgotten about at the state motor pool for four years before finally getting auctioned off ...

Still, getting it checked out is just good sense.

Cheers!

--Finn John (90 "Fordbinder" F250xlt std cab, zf-5, 4.10s, 444 "IH Inside")
Corvallis/Albany, Ore.

[Dave Sponaugle]

Crank the starter for 20 seconds max, then let the starter cool for 2 or 3 minutes before cranking it again.

1978 has the same problem I do, fingers hit to many keys at the same time.

[shawnc]

I found a battery that we could drop in and see if the guages and all would light up. After that and talking to him he dropped his price from $4,500 to $1,500. I think it had something to do with my informing him that the van has 335k miles on it. I don't think I want to write the next chapter in that story. Too bad, it's really a challenge to find these extended diesel vans, at least for anything below $7,000 or so.