in an earlier post is suggested sealing the trim to keep water out, and not pulling the window. After discussions with O2crew, i looked at the trim a little closer. I mistakenly though the trim was sealed to the glass panel, it is not. THe trim is only decorative. I had used sealer externally to keep the water from going under the trim. This workded in my case, but i think that depends on the location of the leak. ---- This morning i decided to dig a little deaper. Took the interior trim off the sides door post, and pulled the head liner and bottom trim out a couple inches. I could easily get to the 12 nuts holding the window in. removed the 12 nuts and started working the glass outward from the inside by prying a small screw driver easily around and around untill i had it worked out 1/4 inch. went on the outside and pulled the window out and set on tail gate. took 45 minutes to get to this point. took 45 minutes to clean off the old butyl seal off the windwo and truck lip. Ran to auto zone and got a 15 ft length of sealer for $8. THis looks like a 3/8 inch diameter black rubber (bytle) rope. You push it onto the window into the small track and it sticks good. put the joint at the bottom. set the window in the truck and push it in to seal. Go on the inside and tighten the 12 screws evenly starting at the top center and worknig outward. go around 3-4 times and pull in eavenly, tighten first at the top. Total it took about 2.5 hours. Works great if you clean up the surfaces and tighten in pattern. Looking at the photo above helped to understand how it is sealed. Mine did not leak after adding the external sealer, but the sure fix is to remove the window.
How did you remove the vinyl trim framing the window in order to get at the nuts holding the window & trim pieces. I had a hard time getting in there with a small screwdriver to release the clips securing the pieces being careful not to break anything. I finally got one side off but what a pain. Is there a tool for removing these pieces?
i took off the seat belt attachment bolt, pulled out trim below the window 2 inches--- i pryed out the post plastic at the top and pulled an onch and heard one pop. pulled to the top front and worked it out from the rubber door trim, just went down the back endge and "pulled" and it popped out. got ot pull pretty hard, but it did not break.
fold down the back seat, take the 4 plastic round clips off the trim under the window and pull the trim forward 2 inches. --- take the seat belt attachment bolt off each door post--- pry out the plastic trim on the door post at the back windwo top edge and jerk it a little. it will pop out of the clips inside. work around the trim pulling it all the way off.---------- look above at the picture of the studs and nuts on the inside of the window. take off the 12 nuts from inside the truck---- pry the window out with a screw driver, slowly, easily along one edge, then all the way around. work it out 1/4 inch.----- go on the outside and pull the window off and set on the tail gate--- you can get a 15 ft roll of bytle sealing tape at Auto Zone for $8.--- clean off the old and install the new--- you will see where there is dust on the old seal where it leaked............... reinstall and snug the bolts in sequence.... dont flex the hood liner too far, just get your fingers above it to get the nuts on.
There's this stuff I use they sell at parts stores (I think mothers makes it) called Back to Black. It's made just for the sole purpose of resurrecting dead external plastic auto trim, and not just black trim. Works great. Unfortunately mine has a ring worn around it from a camper shell from the previous owner. Anyone know where to pick up a good one?
-1975 F-250 Ranger SC Long Bed 2wd, Mild built 400ci FE 4bbl
I have taken out my rear window and it is obvious where the leak was because you could see dust where the black stuff should have been. Thank you to all AT FTE or the great info. Trying to do this blind would have added a full day of headaches. fficeffice" />>> >>
Before I put everything back together I would like to find a new trim and rubber seal for the back window. The one I have is not only faded but has 2 broken clips where the studs are attached. Don’t know if I broke them when removing or if they have been broken for a long time. The rubber seal which I understand is mainly just a diverter is dry and cracked.>> >>
My question is where can I buy a new trim and seal for the back window.>>
My sliding rear window may have been different than yours. I used the black butyl rope from Autozone. I think the studs on mine were part of the window. I didn't replace my outer seal. You probably would have to get the seal from the Dealer. The outer seal it pretty worthless as it doesn't mold to the body of the truck very well.
I use Penzoil Total Care to restore the black color of my faded trim. Seems to last the longest of all the 'restorative' products that I have tried. My truck sits outside a lot, and one application of this stuff lasts about 6 months for me.
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