Needed to get a good solid mount on the seats to test out the feel.... clutch is real easy to push, but I have to make some other refinements to get it to my liking,,,,
I'm going to shorten the clutch rod and actually use some rod ends, I may have tu change around the lower bend in the pedal, but we will have to see...
Thinking about boxing this frame up... just past the TC.
Maybe have some 1/8" or 3/16" channel fabed out and weld it in before I get too much more in the way!
Thinking about boxing this frame up... just past the TC.
Maybe have some 1/8" or 3/16" channel fabed out and weld it in before I get too much more in the way!
Comments or thoughts?
I was wondering about that. When I used to run nasty big blocks on older truck like these I would break/crack crossmembers at rear of truck. This happened acouple of times especially on the 1/2 ton frames. Crack or break near rivits on crossmember. Make a few upgrades on frame with supports. It was kinda cobbled but worked. You have a really nice project going on and while in construction mode I would upgrade frame if possible. Not sure what kinda torque your cummins is putting out but it seemed once I broke the 500ft lb torque number these frames had some issues. How I would know something was wrong was because the bed and cab would be rubbing hard against each other when in full torque. My truck now can lift a tire on front left under hard acceleration if chained up and I keep and eye on these things. Now that I have a link suspension its easier on frame. When I had coil suspension very stiff and would easily lift a front left tire but frame would take a lot of abuse on passenger side crossmembers. During my conversion like yours I'm doing this upgrade in the beginning so I don't have to cobble it like last time. Hope this helps and love the truck and you do awesome work.
I have the aluminum fuel line rubber mounted to the outside of the frame and will be braided at either end (IP and tank)... so this shouldn't be in my way or cause any issues.
My local fab shop is forming some 3/16" channel as I write this. So the plan is to box the rails and gusset and plate the cross member to the frame then box the main cross member which is about 9" wide. I'm thinking that I will run a length of PVC to pull wire as needed and use some spray foam to keep it from rattling around.
Some pics of what I'm working with...
And I'll box this and run angles to the frame....
Not sure what to do with these cross members though? Maybe leave as is?
I still have to fabricate the trans cross member, but I'll wait till I get the frame boxed. I can make the trans cross member pretty stout also...
On another note (my head is starting to hurt)......
I was seting this thing up for a NP205 (dodge gears in a ford case) and now considering going with a late model (bolt in) NP241 DHD? I have seen both TC break, but I'm hearing that the NP205's survive mostly in high HP gas applications with plenty of rear gear....
your build is to damn awesome not to go with the np205! its the king and will always be the king, heck they been aroudn 20 years before the 241 and are still kicking a$$
your build is to damn awesome not to go with the np205! its the king and will always be the king, heck they been aroudn 20 years before the 241 and are still kicking a$$
I hear ya.... just putting these two TC's side by side is like comparing 1/2 ton equipment with 2 ton equipment, but the diesel pulling trucks are breaking them!
I hear ya.... just putting these two TC's side by side is like comparing 1/2 ton equipment with 2 ton equipment, but the diesel pulling trucks are breaking them!
Outside of being able to twin-stick them I can't see how superior they are to a modern T-case. . .definitely not in their low ratio. . .not trying to start anything, but if someone can explain I'd love to hear
__________________
Steve
2004 F150 STX
1978 F-250 4X4
1987 F-250 4x4 VIRGINIA CHAPTER Virginia Chapter Website
Outside of being able to twin-stick them I can't see how superior they are to a modern T-case. . .definitely not in their low ratio. . .not trying to start anything, but if someone can explain I'd love to hear
lets start with gear drive and iron case compared to the modern chain driven and aluminum case..
that exploded case has straight cut gears and a weird support on the pto cover. that case in your picture is not true to original and has been modified, probably why it failed.. heres a 205 im rebuilding look at the deep slash cut stock gears.. plus i dont know why that broken one was running atf.. they are designed to run GEAR oil.. since they are a GEAR case.. no wonder it broke.
The following is my personal opinion and is just that, My opinion!
On the frame ...
If It was me building what you are, I would:
Strip the frame completely.
Temporarily brace up for stability without interfering with the area to be boxed.
Remove all interfering cross members, brackets etc...
Box with a single piece of flat plate the same thickness as the frame cut to shape.
Box from front leaf perch to rear shackle perch (ie: front to back).
Refit cross members, brackets etc...
Square up and weld.
Remove bracing.
Cleanup.
Have it dipped in color of choice.
Don't forget to measure everything a couple times before removing cross members, etc...
Being you live in sunny California the dipping could be exchanged for powder, living in the north east as I do, I want protection INSIDE the box, dipping is the only choice.
On the fuel filter and lines...
Personally I would not have them on the outside of the frame, to much road debris hazard, I would have them on the inside where they are better protected.
It's hard for me to see/understand exactly where you have your Air Dog, but it looks to me like one good chunk of truck tire cap kicked up by your front tire and you'll be setting on the road wishing you didn't mount it there.
As for the busted TC ...
It's very obvious what's been done to it and why, somebody built it for extreme use and it was not built extreme enough!
For whomever it was that said something like "it's modified is why it broke" ...
Ummm, After a fact you are correct, but facts are, you are wrong!
Those straight cut gears are by far stronger than helical cut gears.
That thing in the PTO location is additional shaft support to help keep them straight cut gears from deflecting the shafts.
The following is my personal opinion and is just that, My opinion!
On the frame ...
If It was me building what you are, I would:
Strip the frame completely.
Temporarily brace up for stability without interfering with the area to be boxed.
Remove all interfering cross members, brackets etc...
Box with a single piece of flat plate the same thickness as the frame cut to shape.
Box from front leaf perch to rear shackle perch (ie: front to back).
Refit cross members, brackets etc...
Square up and weld.
Remove bracing.
Cleanup.
Have it dipped in color of choice.
Don't forget to measure everything a couple times before removing cross members, etc...
Being you live in sunny California the dipping could be exchanged for powder, living in the north east as I do, I want protection INSIDE the box, dipping is the only choice.
On the fuel filter and lines...
Personally I would not have them on the outside of the frame, to much road debris hazard, I would have them on the inside where they are better protected.
It's hard for me to see/understand exactly where you have your Air Dog, but it looks to me like one good chunk of truck tire cap kicked up by your front tire and you'll be setting on the road wishing you didn't mount it there.
As for the busted TC ...
It's very obvious what's been done to it and why, somebody built it for extreme use and it was not built extreme enough!
For whomever it was that said something like "it's modified is why it broke" ...
Ummm, After a fact you are correct, but facts are, you are wrong!
Those straight cut gears are by far stronger than helical cut gears.
That thing in the PTO location is additional shaft support to help keep them straight cut gears from deflecting the shafts.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
That broken tcase is Kyle Michael's 205 with the profab gears in it, he admitted it blew apart due to a build error.
so as the kit is DESIGNED to make it stronger, his improper installation along with running the wrong fluid destoryed it.
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