Holy freak dude, thats some serious whittling! Looks good though.
I've done an adapter thats similar for a non automotive application and used pipe flange blanks and a piece of pipe, weld it up, machine to spec. Worked awesome.
yeah - that thing looks good! It gives me some ideas on how I want to mess with mine here soon
__________________ Have you flown a ford lately? 1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250 long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cabthread in "motor swap" forum 1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
I agree, closer to the motor. There should be no issues with the suspension lift, drive line. I saw one where the guy mounted the filter above the front drive line and it smacked the first filter, of course leaking fuel everywhere!
I agree, closer to the motor. There should be no issues with the suspension lift, drive line.
Crud.... I was just getting ready to mount closer to the tank as that was the input from CompD and Cummins forums.... they were saying that it is a pusher pump... maybe I just need to call PurFlo Technologies. You would think that it would be addressed in the instructions?
I should of educated before opening my mouth. Arrrg!
I didn't fully understand the AirDog... I thought it was just filters, did not know it was a pump as well.
Technically the filter should be as close to the IP as possible, yet the pump should be as close to the tank as possible.
The pump type defines it's location.
A positive flow pump (like a diaphram or piston pump) can be mounted anywhere, gear/vane pumps tend to not have good suction and therefore should be mounted around fuel level.
I've got to believe they designed the Airdog to be mounted in the engine compartment.
Personally I wouldn't want my filters under the truck or that far from the motor.
Since the air dog is made to "replace" the lift pump and filter on the cummins, I would think it'd go in place of the stock location. Information shows the air dog is a high volume lift pump and FASS combo. Almost a must have too keep the vp 44 injection pump together but a nice upgrade for others.
I could be wrong on this one but I would want the filtered side line as short as possible to the injection pump.
And here is the latest on the stand alone clutch peddle assembly..... I will add a third bearing suport to the outside of the shaft.
Ok - I've looked at this pic over and over and I can't figure it out. Did this thing start as 2 pedals? Or was that a dodge clutch pedal to start with or what?
I will be doing my hydroboost soon and want to look at doing the clutch master and pedal stuff at the same time.
__________________ Have you flown a ford lately? 1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250 long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cabthread in "motor swap" forum 1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
Ok - I've looked at this pic over and over and I can't figure it out. Did this thing start as 2 pedals? Or was that a dodge clutch pedal to start with or what?
I will be doing my hydroboost soon and want to look at doing the clutch master and pedal stuff at the same time.
That is a piece of a Dodge (could be anything similar) clutch peddle on the outside of the stock ford peddle.... I needed to get the clutch M/C attaching point more support. The M/C cannot be moved closer to the Ford peddle assembly due to the factory firewall bracing. I cut the Dodge peddle and bent it to intersect with the Ford peddle, then used the flat plate for a "cleaner look". I still need to add a outer support that is probably not really needed, but won't hurt. The M/C attachment rod is unfinished... I will add a stop to locate the M/C rod end and thread the outer for a retaining nut.
I can take some pics of the back side if that will help.
Thnaks for the info. That is about what I thought, but the weld bead towards the top of the Ford pedal kinda threw me. Plus with your welds ground down it almost looked like that top plate work could have been factory.
So if that was the stock dodge clutch pedal on the outside - it would be where the M/C connects. Is that solid rod on it (maybe a bolt with the threads cut off and soulder left) stock? If it is a cut bolt then obviously it won't be stock, but is that the same distance as stock dodges from the clutch pivot to the M/C connection point?
More pics are always welcome!
__________________ Have you flown a ford lately? 1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250 long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cabthread in "motor swap" forum 1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
Plus with your welds ground down it almost looked like that top plate work could have been factory.
LOL.... I hate grinding down welds as I always feel like I'm hiding a bad weld. The plate was kind of a after thought to clean the look up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChaseTruck754
So if that was the stock dodge clutch pedal on the outside - it would be where the M/C connects. Is that solid rod on it (maybe a bolt with the threads cut off and soulder left) stock? If it is a cut bolt then obviously it won't be stock, but is that the same distance as stock dodges from the clutch pivot to the M/C connection point?
Yep thats a bolt with the threads cut off. I will thread it after I see exactly where the M/C rad end wants to ride. The distance is close to factory Dodge... If I remember the Dodge was 2.250" and I eneded up shortening that for some more peddle swing to 2.000". I will then add a stop so that I'm not bottoming the M/C. Then I'm going to remove the rubber peddle cover and weld on some serious traction so my foot never slips off!
I would have to say it's going to ride pretty tight to the right side (closer to pedal) from the looks of the alignment with the M/C mount hole. It looks pretty centered and it should be offset half the thickness of the pushrod.
However it is hard to tell the alignment via pictures.
My only concern is the swing to stroke ratio, you gave it more swing, will it still stroke the M/C fully?
The more the swing the easier it'll be to push.
Did you equal the clutch pedal with the brake pedal. So it's not higher or lower then the brake pedal.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.
