different frame, etc.
I don't really know the 80's F series well, but I believe the frames were different. Also - the offset tranny tunnel, etc. might have been changed
__________________ Have you flown a ford lately? 1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250 long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cabthread in "motor swap" forum 1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
Taking a measurement showed that the Input shaft is aproximately .750" too long. Input shaft total length is 7.750" and the bellhousing depth to crank end (no pilot bearing) is 7.000" .
Not questioning your abilities (Your workmanship shows you have the abilities), But we humans do make mistakes, and I hope I have either misunderstood your writings or caught an error.
One side of me hopes I have misunderstood, And the other side hopes that I have caught an error and the housing you have will work!
You say "crank end", do you mean it's 7" to the crank end or to the bottom of the pilot bearing hole in the crank end?
Also
Doing a little research on the NV4500 I noticed the spec on the input shaft is 7.625".
You stated yours at 7.75", didn't want that 1/8" to haunt ya!
Not questioning your abilities (Your workmanship shows you have the abilities), But we humans do make mistakes, and I hope I have either misunderstood your writings or caught an error.
One side of me hopes I have misunderstood, And the other side hopes that I have caught an error and the housing you have will work!
You say "crank end", do you mean it's 7" to the crank end or to the bottom of the pilot bearing hole in the crank end?
Also
Doing a little research on the NV4500 I noticed the spec on the input shaft is 7.625".
You stated yours at 7.75", didn't want that 1/8" to haunt ya!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
If my memory is correct... that was to the depth of the crank end, so there is .125" clearance.
Im assuming you're bolting it in? 1/8" plate? Looks pretty beef, I've heard of people just drilling a hole and mounting them, then they push thru the firewall. You're solving alot of problems for those of us who will be doing this later, I, for one appreciate it.
__________________
1976 crew cab, 4x4, family tow monster. 97 Dodge Cummins engine doner.
Interesting approcah. What thickness is the plate that you made, and how will you attach it to the firewall?
I have not looked at this portion of my swap yet, but it is something that concerns me a little. There will be a lot of pressure on that specific area of the firewall due to the master.
Others have taken the entire mounting bracket area out of the firewall of the dodge and used it. People told me that my donor should have a "bracket" or reinforced area in the stock firewall - but I didn't see anything. Probably because mine is/was an auto
I also thank you for getting to stuff before I do - haha
__________________ Have you flown a ford lately? 1938 Ford Pickup = hot rod
1970 Ford F250 long bed & 1974 Ford F100 Supercab - 2wds
1974 Ford F250 4x4 Crew cabthread in "motor swap" forum 1989 Ford Ranger= Never gonna be done...
1972 Alfa Romeo GTV & 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4wd = DD
looks good enough to keep the cylinder from pushing through, but I remember my firewall on my 78 was pretty flimsy. It should be "pinned" well enough on the side of the brake booster and steering column but the other might flex (it will want to rotate into the booster a little) and give you a spongy clutch peddle. . .
I wonder if screwing/bolting/gluing a little 1" X 1" X 1/8" aluminum angle vertically from body seam to body seam would help? Should make the area much stiffer by sending the pedal force into the body seams instead of into the sheet metal. . .
Or I could just be over analyzing it
looks good, I'm still jealous
__________________
Steve
2004 F150 STX
1978 F-250 4X4
1987 F-250 4x4 VIRGINIA CHAPTER Virginia Chapter Website
If my memory is correct... that was to the depth of the crank end, so there is .125" clearance.
I guess I'm missing something... The way I see your writings is:
Bell housing to crank end is 7".
And _if_ the PB is at least .625" deep. (Probably more) (guess I could go find the spec)
That makes 7.625" from Bell housing face to bottom of PB hole in crank.
The input shaft specs are 7.625".
It should work ...
Maybe it was something else stopping the NV from seating fully.
I'm only trying to help, not doubt you!
It's obvious you're no dummy. So I'll just forget it and move on.
Your workmanship is impeccable!
It's an absolute eyegasm to look at!
To me the primary concern would be firewall flex, Having the plate on the inside means it would have to push the plate through the firewall thus spreading the load across the dimension of the plate, versus off the firewall which reduces the load to the dimension of the locks.
I may not be seeing the whole big picture though, I've never seen the M/C so I don't know exactly how it is retained, I only see what your pictures show.
Just pointing out my thoughts.
From what I see you doing you ain't making no slouch here and I suspect you'll be running a pretty heavy clutch and I know you don't want to push the M/C through the FW.
I know I don't write well (word things correctly) and I mean NO OFFENCE!
Interesting approcah. What thickness is the plate that you made, and how will you attach it to the firewall?
I have not looked at this portion of my swap yet, but it is something that concerns me a little. There will be a lot of pressure on that specific area of the firewall due to the master.
Others have taken the entire mounting bracket area out of the firewall of the dodge and used it. People told me that my donor should have a "bracket" or reinforced area in the stock firewall - but I didn't see anything. Probably because mine is/was an auto
I also thank you for getting to stuff before I do - haha
That's a .125" 6061 plate.... I was thinking maybe using 6 bolts through the firewall? Maybe even another plate on the inside?
looks good enough to keep the cylinder from pushing through, but I remember my firewall on my 78 was pretty flimsy. It should be "pinned" well enough on the side of the brake booster and steering column but the other might flex (it will want to rotate into the booster a little) and give you a spongy clutch peddle. . .
I wonder if screwing/bolting/gluing a little 1" X 1" X 1/8" aluminum angle vertically from body seam to body seam would help? Should make the area much stiffer by sending the pedal force into the body seams instead of into the sheet metal. . .
Or I could just be over analyzing it
looks good, I'm still jealous
It is pretty close to the brake booster reenforcement on the one side, so maybe use a vertical angle opposite..... kinda at a point that it will have to all be bolt on as the line-x won't handle my welding.....
To me the primary concern would be firewall flex, Having the plate on the inside means it would have to push the plate through the firewall thus spreading the load across the dimension of the plate, versus off the firewall which reduces the load to the dimension of the locks.
I may not be seeing the whole big picture though, I've never seen the M/C so I don't know exactly how it is retained, I only see what your pictures show.
Just pointing out my thoughts.
From what I see you doing you ain't making no slouch here and I suspect you'll be running a pretty heavy clutch and I know you don't want to push the M/C through the FW.
I know I don't write well (word things correctly) and I mean NO OFFENCE!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Yes, flex is a concern.... the MC only has to push through the plate at the 4 points of contact, which IMO is a poor design from the get go!
Mounting the plate on the inside will support the plate/firewall relationship better, but wont give the MC further support. I will have to re-look at this and see if I can do something to back up those 4 contact tabs.... I wish the MC was aluminum construction with bolts or a threaded cylinder to retain it.
Not questioning your abilities (Your workmanship shows you have the abilities), But we humans do make mistakes, and I hope I have either misunderstood your writings or caught an error.
One side of me hopes I have misunderstood, And the other side hopes that I have caught an error and the housing you have will work!
You say "crank end", do you mean it's 7" to the crank end or to the bottom of the pilot bearing hole in the crank end?
Also
Doing a little research on the NV4500 I noticed the spec on the input shaft is 7.625".
You stated yours at 7.75", didn't want that 1/8" to haunt ya!
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
I have to back and read what I wrote..... in the morning.
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in the morning.
