sealant for valve cover & intake manifold

khadma · #1 (**permalink**) 10-21-2007, 01:52 AM

I am in the process of replacing the valve covers and lower intake on my 3.0.
The question is - what type of sealant is used where the aluminum intake mates with the iron heads.(at the ends of the rubber gasket at the block) Also, where the heads mate with the intake at the upper section near the top of the pushrods.
There are factory globs of sealant and I am wondering what it is. Silicone, RTV etc. My guess is silicone?

khadma · #2 (**permalink**) 10-21-2007, 12:30 PM

anyone have any info

blue beast · #3 (**permalink**) 10-25-2007, 06:40 PM

This isn't the liveliest part of this site, You can use a high temp sensor safe silicone
for it. Make sure to put silver antisieze on all the bolts and torque them in the proper sequence to the specified torque!! I don't believe in gaskets that don't require retorquing if you can let the motor sit in the sun for a few days and check the torque if you are not going to be starting it right away.
and I would check them after a few hundred miles (400 tops) make sure during that time it gets up to temp and for an extended time say get on the highway for a good two or three hour ride, I don't know how easy that is to do on an island but just keep it moving so the expansion will max out. You don't want a intake leak to make it run lean these vulcan motors are tuff BUT!! I know living on an island can be hard on a vehicle I used to live on one and my drive to work was 300 yards usually I rode my bike
but If I had to go to the store for parts or lumber I would drive, Those short drives
just get it warm enough to cause condensation when it cools but it never gets Hot
enough to burn it off, On the weekends or whenever take the long way or just drive around for an hour or so, That way it gets to boil off the water that gathers in the
motor, tranny and diffs. If you got rust on the top of your dipstick you need to go for longer drives!!