where can I find an oasis report for my dream (now nightmare) truck?
VIN# 1FTWW33P34EC89368
I am now being told by Ford dealer I need to re-place the EGR cooler, Oil cooler, drain tube, and IPR screen (all for $2300).
Should I go ahead and have them replace the feed tube as well.
Also how do I know if I already have a coolant filter on board? What are the Ford/International part #'s and probable cost for that filter?
OR should I just go with a delete kit and be done with it???
I just got this truck 2 1/2 months ago (at 81277 miles) putting only 7K on it and now it seems to be falling apart around me, dealers have had it more than I have.
Last edited by 04Dually4X4; 10-11-2009 at 11:08 AM.
Reason: add questions
I recently had my EGR cooler replaced at the dealership and was later talking to a non-dealer mechanic who works on a lot of 6.0's. He told me he recently spoke to a Ford rep who said the reason the EGR coolers go out so often is b/c the oil coolers get pluged up with sand, which is the real culprit. This is caused by the blocks not being cleaned of sand very well when they were fabricated. So, because the coolant flow is limited it heats up too high and causes the leak. So, he says if you don't change the oil coolers you don't get to the core of the problem. Any thoughts out there on this?
It is Ford's recommendation that the oil cooler service kit be installed now for any warranty repair whenever the egr cooler is replaced. Previously Ford used to have us test the egr coolers and oil coolers seperately and only replace the failed components. After repeat egr cooler replacements they changed the procedure. Actually that particular TSB has been changed at least half a dozen times. Casting sand is usually left over when casting engines but the oil coolers on 6.0 are particularly prone to failure, they probably should have made the coolant passages larger in the oil cooler.
My orange hose leaked last winter, but quit this spring. Well it is leaking again. Is there an easy fix? Should I replace it? Should I delete part or all of it?
__________________
2003 F 350 XLT Sport 4x4 6.0L Diesel
Bank's Big Hoss with PDA
My orange hose leaked last winter, but quit this spring. Well it is leaking again. Is there an easy fix? Should I replace it? Should I delete part or all of it?
The updated hose is blue IIRC. Replace it and it should last a good long time. There is a trick to replacing it that makes it fairly easy to do.
__________________ Mark
06 F250 CC SB ESOF FX4 Lariat 3.73LS 275/65R20; DieselSite Coolant Filter; High Idle Mod; HFCM Plug; Zoodad/Air Fury grill; Accufab Elbow; RACCCV6000 filter; JimmiJammers; Ravelco; SynchroMax in Transfer Case; Fumoto Valve; Harpooned fuel tank; Line-X; CPOhighway Products tool box; tracrac; Fox Weatherboots; Wet Okole Seat Covers; Stanadyne Performance & B2 for lubricity; PIE adapter (thanks Sarge); PIAA 24" wiper blades; updated EGR valve; BriteBox; Re-flashed; Fuel Pressure gauge; DashDaq on deck
there are 2 ways to test an oil cooler.
1) moniter eot and ect they should be nomore then 15 degrees apart. eot being the high.
this is the perfered method.
2) you can do a vacuum test on it as well. if you have a rad kit you would make sure its void of all coolant and apply vacuum to the coolant port (remove the upper cover and use the port closist to the front cover)of the oil cooler. if you show any movement on the vacuum gague then the oil cooler is failed
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