My Alternator broke (and left me stranded ... to be saved by a good natured chevvy).

I've decided to replace it myself. Anyone got a rough proceedure?

 

A few words of advice. Do not buy a rebuilt alternator! Spend a few dollars extra and buy a new one. You need a 13mm socket to remove the 3 bolts on top and a 10mm socket to disconnect the power lead on the back. Don't forget to disconnect the batteries. There is also a plug on the alternator that needs to be disconnected. A 1/2 inch breaker bar will also be needed to remove & replace the belt.

Mike

 

Please discuss IN DETAIL, including your background in alternator service, and the parts typically replaced in a "re-built" alternator, why you feel so strongly only NEW alternators should be installed.

Thank you

 

I ordered the part from the dealer for $190 (CDN). I have to return the old one (I understand they rebuild them), but I got lucky and was shipped a new one. I would have accepted a rebuilt one.

Rebuilt parts usually see human hands whereas factory new parts often are maufactured by machines. I've had good luck with rebuilt parts and have no particular predjudice towards them. However, in this specific case, I was told the part was new.

Anyways... What do I do with the 1/2" breaker bar?

 

My "background" is my own real world experience with my Excursion. After going through 4 or 5 "re-built" alternators I paid the difference and purchased a new alternator and have had fewer problems since.

 

The breaker bar is to remove the tension on the belt. It goes in the belt tensioner. If you are facing the grill, look down by the fan on the left side you will see the belt tensioner. It will have a square hole for the breaker bar. Put the end in there and I believe turning it to the left releases the tension.

Mike

 

where can u get breaker bars from?

 

Pretty much anywhere that sells tools. Auto parts houses or hardware stores.

Here is a pic of one.

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/...ker_bar-d.html

You can also just use a socket wrench, but this gives you more leverage.

 

You can manufacture a poor-man's breaker bar by adding a length of 1/2 inch pipe to a socket wrench.

 

Very true!

 

OK. Now those of you in the "know" are probably laughing, but I'm stuck here. Getting the old one off was easy enough. Without it's bolts, the belt tension pulled it forward.

However, there is a plastic cowling in the way of getting to any of the other pullys. How do I get that out of the way?

Help?

 

thanks for the link

 

OK. Still having massive problems today.

Firstly, I don't think that my existing belt routing matches the diagram under my hood at all... so I'm wondering if there are different tensioner positions... I can't find a pulley with a 1/2" square hole in it.

Either way, getting the cowling off is really hard --- I havn't managed it yet (although I have managed to crack it a bit).

 

See if this pic helps.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-3-7...QQcmdZViewItem

 

He's got a 6.0, so that won't help any.