Joined when I found this 3.0L section (questions & info inside)
#1
10-17-2007, 10:58 PM
Joined when I found this 3.0L section (questions & info inside)
First let me say that the 3.0L is another die-hard ford engine that I love.
Take care of them and they will last until you are sick of looking at them.
Then they'll go on to make someone else good cheap transportation.
I have owned many fords for personal and business use, put unreal miles on them and sold them still in great working order. Some of them have been 3.0L powered, and lived forever.
One 3.0L was a work van of mine... ran over 300,000 miles trouble free... nothing but what I consider normal maintenance. The other 3.0L is in a Ranger XLT I still have. I just got it inspected again this week and it had 272,356 miles.
Anyways, the Ranger XLT is a 1992 model and I have a serious question I need an answer to quick.
What TYPE of lifters does my engine have? Roller tappets or not?
At this point, I have 600,000 miles of experience with this engine, so I will try to hang around and share what I can.
Take care of them and they will last until you are sick of looking at them.
Then they'll go on to make someone else good cheap transportation.
I have owned many fords for personal and business use, put unreal miles on them and sold them still in great working order. Some of them have been 3.0L powered, and lived forever.
One 3.0L was a work van of mine... ran over 300,000 miles trouble free... nothing but what I consider normal maintenance. The other 3.0L is in a Ranger XLT I still have. I just got it inspected again this week and it had 272,356 miles.
Anyways, the Ranger XLT is a 1992 model and I have a serious question I need an answer to quick.
What TYPE of lifters does my engine have? Roller tappets or not?
At this point, I have 600,000 miles of experience with this engine, so I will try to hang around and share what I can.
#2
10-18-2007, 08:56 AM
Welcome to FTE.
Check out this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...or-1993-a.html
All the 3.0L motors except the Probe got roller lifters in '92, so there was a new F2DE casting that had two more bolt holes in the valley that were needed for the "spider" that kept the roller lifters perpendicular to the cam.
Last edited by Rockledge; 10-18-2007 at 09:01 AM.
#3
10-18-2007, 10:05 PM
Originally Posted by Rockledge
Welcome to FTE.
Check out this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...or-1993-a.html
Check out this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...or-1993-a.html
But I've never been inside to be sure...
And, what is in that thread doesn't 'mesh' with the Specs PDF on here.
#4
10-18-2007, 11:00 PM
Oh, and I forgot to explain 'why' I'm asking about the tappet type on the lifters...
Maybe it is common knowledge here... I dunno...
But anyways, they continue to keep reducing the extreme anti-wear additives such as zinc in passenger car motor oil. These additives are the 'last line of defense' in high pressure high shear areas such as those severe ones like between the camshaft and flat tappets.
These current shelf passenger car oils do not have what it takes to protect in these environments. So the issue is that flat tappets create a high pressure sliding lube point... one that needs these additives to prevent eventual metal-to-metal contact.
Maybe it is common knowledge here... I dunno...
But anyways, they continue to keep reducing the extreme anti-wear additives such as zinc in passenger car motor oil. These additives are the 'last line of defense' in high pressure high shear areas such as those severe ones like between the camshaft and flat tappets.
These current shelf passenger car oils do not have what it takes to protect in these environments. So the issue is that flat tappets create a high pressure sliding lube point... one that needs these additives to prevent eventual metal-to-metal contact.
#5
10-18-2007, 11:19 PM
Originally Posted by Envy
Oh, and I forgot to explain 'why' I'm asking about the tappet type on the lifters...
Maybe it is common knowledge here... I dunno...
But anyways, they continue to keep reducing the extreme anti-wear additives such as zinc in passenger car motor oil. These additives are the 'last line of defense' in high pressure high shear areas such as those severe ones like between the camshaft and flat tappets.
These current shelf passenger car oils do not have what it takes to protect in these environments. So the issue is that flat tappets create a high pressure sliding lube point... one that needs these additives to prevent eventual metal-to-metal contact.
Maybe it is common knowledge here... I dunno...
But anyways, they continue to keep reducing the extreme anti-wear additives such as zinc in passenger car motor oil. These additives are the 'last line of defense' in high pressure high shear areas such as those severe ones like between the camshaft and flat tappets.
These current shelf passenger car oils do not have what it takes to protect in these environments. So the issue is that flat tappets create a high pressure sliding lube point... one that needs these additives to prevent eventual metal-to-metal contact.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...0&postcount=15
#6
10-19-2007, 01:15 AM
Good... so you for one understand where I am going with this line of questioning.
For the record, I have always used chevron/havoline dino oil and stock motorcraft filters.
I have had good results and no reason to change. But news as of late has had me worried about rather or not I should change up on what I have been doing. Like I could go to the Rotella T 10w30 or any of the 15w40 oils for the ZDDP if it's needed.
Might even be time to switch to some 'high mileage' oil eventually
For the record, I have always used chevron/havoline dino oil and stock motorcraft filters.
I have had good results and no reason to change. But news as of late has had me worried about rather or not I should change up on what I have been doing. Like I could go to the Rotella T 10w30 or any of the 15w40 oils for the ZDDP if it's needed.
Might even be time to switch to some 'high mileage' oil eventually
#7
10-19-2007, 01:22 AM
Originally Posted by Envy
Good... so you for one understand where I am going with this line of questioning.
For the record, I have always used chevron/havoline dino oil and stock motorcraft filters.
I have had good results and no reason to change. But news as of late has had me worried about rather or not I should change up on what I have been doing. Like I could go to the Rotella T 10w30 or any of the 15w40 oils for the ZDDP if it's needed.
Might even be time to switch to some 'high mileage' oil eventually
For the record, I have always used chevron/havoline dino oil and stock motorcraft filters.
I have had good results and no reason to change. But news as of late has had me worried about rather or not I should change up on what I have been doing. Like I could go to the Rotella T 10w30 or any of the 15w40 oils for the ZDDP if it's needed.
Might even be time to switch to some 'high mileage' oil eventually
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#8
10-19-2007, 01:36 AM
Hummmm...
See, I liked the idea of the Rotella Synthetic, and I have a personal vehicle that I decided to do extended drain intervals with. The main reason being is that changing the oil filter cannot be done without making a mess due to the mounting.
In any event, I ran Havoline for 4,000 or 5,000 miles with a wix filter. I drained because the oil was getting pretty dark.
All things considered, I refilled with Rotella Syn. One gallon does the job cheap. But I have been less than impressed. Unlike the Havoline, it has required I add make-up oil. I think about 2 quarts in 5,000 miles. It's not burning oil or leaking, so my only idea is that maybe the engine is whipping the VII's pretty good.
I don't really understand.
See, I liked the idea of the Rotella Synthetic, and I have a personal vehicle that I decided to do extended drain intervals with. The main reason being is that changing the oil filter cannot be done without making a mess due to the mounting.
In any event, I ran Havoline for 4,000 or 5,000 miles with a wix filter. I drained because the oil was getting pretty dark.
All things considered, I refilled with Rotella Syn. One gallon does the job cheap. But I have been less than impressed. Unlike the Havoline, it has required I add make-up oil. I think about 2 quarts in 5,000 miles. It's not burning oil or leaking, so my only idea is that maybe the engine is whipping the VII's pretty good.
I don't really understand.
#9
10-19-2007, 02:07 AM
#10
10-20-2007, 11:58 AM
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#11
10-21-2007, 12:50 AM
Originally Posted by blue beast
The stp oil treatment in the blue bottle is ZDDP and can give you the protection you
are looking for. I am a diesel oil user but i am wondering with the new reformulations
if I should just by some cheap oil and dump in the stp.
are looking for. I am a diesel oil user but i am wondering with the new reformulations
if I should just by some cheap oil and dump in the stp.
If I were you though, I'd stick to the diesel oil I think.
It's cheap anyways.
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