Joined when I found this 3.0L section (questions & info inside)
First let me say that the 3.0L is another die-hard ford engine that I love.
Take care of them and they will last until you are sick of looking at them.
Then they'll go on to make someone else good cheap transportation.
I have owned many fords for personal and business use, put unreal miles on them and sold them still in great working order. Some of them have been 3.0L powered, and lived forever.
One 3.0L was a work van of mine... ran over 300,000 miles trouble free... nothing but what I consider normal maintenance. The other 3.0L is in a Ranger XLT I still have. I just got it inspected again this week and it had 272,356 miles.
Anyways, the Ranger XLT is a 1992 model and I have a serious question I need an answer to quick.
What TYPE of lifters does my engine have? Roller tappets or not?
At this point, I have 600,000 miles of experience with this engine, so I will try to hang around and share what I can.
All the 3.0L motors except the Probe got roller lifters in '92, so there was a new F2DE casting that had two more bolt holes in the valley that were needed for the "spider" that kept the roller lifters perpendicular to the cam.
Oh, and I forgot to explain 'why' I'm asking about the tappet type on the lifters...
Maybe it is common knowledge here... I dunno...
But anyways, they continue to keep reducing the extreme anti-wear additives such as zinc in passenger car motor oil. These additives are the 'last line of defense' in high pressure high shear areas such as those severe ones like between the camshaft and flat tappets.
These current shelf passenger car oils do not have what it takes to protect in these environments. So the issue is that flat tappets create a high pressure sliding lube point... one that needs these additives to prevent eventual metal-to-metal contact.
Oh, and I forgot to explain 'why' I'm asking about the tappet type on the lifters...
Maybe it is common knowledge here... I dunno...
But anyways, they continue to keep reducing the extreme anti-wear additives such as zinc in passenger car motor oil. These additives are the 'last line of defense' in high pressure high shear areas such as those severe ones like between the camshaft and flat tappets.
These current shelf passenger car oils do not have what it takes to protect in these environments. So the issue is that flat tappets create a high pressure sliding lube point... one that needs these additives to prevent eventual metal-to-metal contact.
It's not really common knowledge, but the subject has been discussed before around here:
Good... so you for one understand where I am going with this line of questioning.
For the record, I have always used chevron/havoline dino oil and stock motorcraft filters.
I have had good results and no reason to change. But news as of late has had me worried about rather or not I should change up on what I have been doing. Like I could go to the Rotella T 10w30 or any of the 15w40 oils for the ZDDP if it's needed.
Might even be time to switch to some 'high mileage' oil eventually
Good... so you for one understand where I am going with this line of questioning.
For the record, I have always used chevron/havoline dino oil and stock motorcraft filters.
I have had good results and no reason to change. But news as of late has had me worried about rather or not I should change up on what I have been doing. Like I could go to the Rotella T 10w30 or any of the 15w40 oils for the ZDDP if it's needed.
Might even be time to switch to some 'high mileage' oil eventually
Even the current Rotella T formula has reduced zinc, but the levels are still way above and beyond what you will find in other shelf brands. For that reason, I remain devoted to Rotella T 5W-40 in all my vehicles...
See, I liked the idea of the Rotella Synthetic, and I have a personal vehicle that I decided to do extended drain intervals with. The main reason being is that changing the oil filter cannot be done without making a mess due to the mounting.
In any event, I ran Havoline for 4,000 or 5,000 miles with a wix filter. I drained because the oil was getting pretty dark.
All things considered, I refilled with Rotella Syn. One gallon does the job cheap. But I have been less than impressed. Unlike the Havoline, it has required I add make-up oil. I think about 2 quarts in 5,000 miles. It's not burning oil or leaking, so my only idea is that maybe the engine is whipping the VII's pretty good.
Something to consider is the added detergents in Rotella T, being as it's diesel-rated. You may find some very dirty oil during the next 1-2 oil changes (I did after the first couple of runs with RT). Maybe that is impacting oil usage in your case, as well.
The stp oil treatment in the blue bottle is ZDDP and can give you the protection you
are looking for. I am a diesel oil user but i am wondering with the new reformulations
if I should just by some cheap oil and dump in the stp.
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86 fs bronco 302 auto 33x12.50 at rusty but trusty!
04 Ranger edge 3.0 5 speed auto 4.10
Before posting fuel related problems Run a couple of bottles of dedicated gas line dryer through IT!!!!!!!
There now I don't have to say it every time!!!!
The stp oil treatment in the blue bottle is ZDDP and can give you the protection you
are looking for. I am a diesel oil user but i am wondering with the new reformulations
if I should just by some cheap oil and dump in the stp.
Actually, you would probably want to buy the RED stp bottle instead. The 4 cylinder treatment. It's thinner and has more ZDDP.
If I were you though, I'd stick to the diesel oil I think.
It's cheap anyways.
I have been running Chevron Delo 15W-40 or Mobil Delvac 1300s 15W-40 with a good quality Napa Gold 1516 for about three years now and I have not noticed any issues, but I do live on the central Coast of California were it may drop into the low 20's in the winter for a few hours.
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2005 F-350 XLT 4X4 Dually 6.0 Auto
Oxford white with Arizona Bage 2 tone
Superhitch 15,000 lbs Capacity WD
LINEX
1991 HD F-250 XLT Lariat
Fire Breathing 460 V-8 E-4OD
Diesel Mechanic for 2 years and running. Beware the ignorant mechanic who thinks he knows everything, It has been my experience that you can always learn something new.
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