I ended up using the D6 rods from my 87's motor in the D1VE block I had and am starting to install everything. Crank is in. I started Installing the pistons and I noticed the numbers stamped on the sides of the rods Of course they're not in order. . .I matched the rings to the pistons to the cylinders they went in. Pistons are oriented correctly so far, are the rods numbered for more than just reference? BTW, pistons are new Speed Pro.

 

passenger bank(right side) front to rear 1,2,3,4 drivers side front to rear 5,6,7,8 and the rods have to point the right direction. the notch in the piston to the front of engine. I am sorry I do not remember which way the rods have to face bearing locks out or in. If they have an oil hole in the side of the rod it points to the camshaft when installed in the block.

 

Did you measure piston ring end clearance? It is best to drop a ring in the bore and push it down a little with a piston head. Measure the clearance at the ends and check against specs, and file if fit is too tight.
Are these new rings? Has the bore been checked for taper/round? Have the cylinders been honed?
I know this isn't your question, but just seeing if bases were covered...

 

The rods should be put in in the numerical order by cylinders. #1 in #1 cylinder, etc. The number on the rod and cap should match and if they are inserted properly the numbers should face outward and the notches on the piston should face toward the front of the engine. If not, I would suggest correcting it.

 

If the rod bushings (little end of the rod) were redone and new bearings on the crank end, it doesn't really matter what hole the rods are in. The numbers are for when you don't do a proper rebuild.

 

Well, I only had a couple pistons in so it didn't take too long to redo and check those and do it in order. Yes, there are new pistons, rings, bearings, etc. . .blocks been cleaned, bored, and honed. . .crank polished, etc. I checked the ring gaps, they all fall within book spec. Plasti-gauge was in spec. Thrust clearances are in spec (a few on the high side, but still in spec). Pretty sure I installed the seal correctly (book said "lip to the front of the engine"), offset and sealed with sealant. Turns over without any obvious binding, though the new rings do drag lol.

Is that it for the bottom end? Everything is torqued to spec, just need to install the oil pump. The gasket for that is torn part way, can you buy just that? Am I missing anything before I put the oil pan on and turn it over?

 

You did oil the cylinder walls, pistons and rings before installing them didn't you? The oil pump gasket, just make a new one with old one as a template or if you don't have the pump yet, the new pump will come with one usually. Be sure to prime the engine oil system before you start the engine.

 

Most all of it was either scraped or otherwise wiped off except a film during install but yes they are oiled. Might dribble some down from the back side before I flip it over just for the sake of it. . .

Oil pump is new, the new gasket was torn. I might just make one then, I think I still have some old gasket material laying around.

Does it help any to pack the oil pump with grease or something to help it prime faster? Like priming a well?

 

No. Just before you get ready for starting, (and before installing distributor), chuck a long extension onto a drill and spin the pump with appropriate hex socket. (CCW) Watch for oil to start moving topside. They also sell kits ($$) that use air to provide an oil priming system. Saw it on Hot Rod tv! lol