I have a 390 in my 79 f150 4X4 and it needs to be rebuilt. I have a couple of casting number questions. I have a set of core heads that are off of a 352 or 360 with the casting number of C1AE. Would they be any advantage over my current heads that are on my motor that are D2TE-AA.

My engine is out of a 1974 truck. The casting number is D3TE with the backward 105 cast. Can this block be bored to 428 like the D4TE casting.

 

If the C1 heads check good for cracks and they aren't warped or in bad condition I would use them. They were cast in 1961 and the 60's heads flow better than the newer ones from what I've been told. Your block is an FT block and may be able to go to 428 specs depending on how evenly bored it was from the factory. I don't know if there are any differences between the D3 and D4 blocks. I would just bore it .030 over or whatever it takes to get the imperfections out of the walls. You'll be much happier with the better cooling you get than the small power increase from the size increase.

 

Rusty, my first concern on any FE build is always the oiling system. Has your block been done? If not we can tell you how. Now, about your casting choices- where do you want the power? At a lower rpm or high? Some guys prefer the larger intake ports, like your C1AEs have, for high end power. If I were building a truck engine I would use the D2TE heads, adding hard seats and 2.09/1.65 or 2.125/1.75 valves, depending on your final bore size. There is no guarantee of any block being able to take the big bore, but your chances are better with D3TE block than some of the older castings. Can you tell us how much water there is between the bores ? This can be checked looking thru the casting plug holes. The 428 requires the longer crank as well. They are sometimes hard to find and exspensive. If you are willing to offset grind the crank, a 440 is sometimes possible with a 390 crank. Interested ? DF

 

I was just curious about the block being able to be bored that far over. In all the threads I've read I only seen the d4 block refered to as doing this to.

I plan on doing the oiling mods I saved one of the old threads on the subject.

As for power I'm looking for a little more than stock. My truck has 3.50 gearing and is a shortbox and I pleased with the power it puts out now but I going to use it to move 1500 miles and it'll probably be loaded down heavy and pulling a trailer. After I move it'll will never see any strenuos loads. After I move I will restore it after I restore my 77.

 

DF, can I use the 2.12/1.75 valves with my D2TAA Heads with a .030 bore? I was thinking about going .060 over if necessary. Those valves would be great. Who makes them? Desktop Dyno shows a 25HP increase as opposed to using the 2.09/1.65 valves.

 

Actually I wouldn't mind even going with the 2.09/1.75 combo.

 

I also have the block that the c1ae heads. It has 3.5 in stroke and 4.0in bore making it a 352. Is the 360 the same engine except with a 4.05in bore. I would like to build an engine to use while I rebuild my 390. The one problem with the block is 4 and 8 cylinders have some moderate to heavy pitting. Can I run a cylinder hone through those two bores and hone the rust away or not even bother and find another 390 core.

 

Depending on how far you drive to work everyday and how long it is going to take you to get done with your 390 I would drop it in as is. Just clean it up a little with a bottle hone and baby it. If you drive 30 miles each way to work use your best judgement. As long as its not broke it should run. It will probably run like crap, smoke to high heaven, and use almost as much oil as gas but it should probably get you by.

 

It was froze up until I pulled the heads and used some PB Blaster and knocking the pistons loose with the handle of my ball peen hammer then I then I rocked the crank back and forth until it spun freely.

 

You might check to see how much you can get an FE motor of any kind from the junk yard for. The one you have is really going to run like crap. I would pull the oil pan and check out the bottom end if you decide to use it. It should still run if there are no spun bearings.

 

The junk yard just got in another truck with an fe engine and a four barrel I'll check that one out. The ft in that I have in my truck I paid 250 plus I got a standard flywheel and a rear sump oil pan and pickup so I could put it in my 4X4.

 

Rat- no you can't run the 1.75 exhaust in the 390 + 060 bore (4.110). The valve will hit the cylinder wall at .450 lift, I have tried. It is possible to notch the top of the bores to make it work anyway, but with the valve so close to the cylinder wall you lose flow to shrouding. It is also possible to relocate the valve centerlines, but this is more trouble than it is worth. Stick to the 1.65 exhaust unless you have 428 +030 bore (4.160), then you can move up to the 1.75. Rusty- sure you can hone out those two bores and go. One of my engines was built quick and dirty. I started with PBlaster to break loose the frozen engine and did all the bores with a brush hone from Kansas Instruments. Then new moly rings from Hastings and a new M57HV oilpump, all the rest of the pieces were used. The oil consumption is a little higher than normal, but liveable. No smoke screens behind me and it runs fine. Certainly well enough to get you by while building your 390. DF

 

DF-So if I rebuild the c1 heads will they work fine for my truck. They are rusty and I will need to have them rebuilt before I can use them.

 

Did ford use the ft block to build any 360 engines or did they only build 390s out of them?

 

>DF, can I use the 2.12/1.75
>valves with my D2TAA Heads
>with a .030 bore? I
>was thinking about going .060
>over if necessary. Those
>valves would be great. Who
>makes them? Desktop Dyno
>shows a 25HP increase as
>opposed to using the 2.09/1.65
>valves.


That's one of the computer dyno weaknesses, they know nothing when it comes to bigger valves, you automatically get a power increase with bigger valves regardless if in the real world they would shroud to the point of causing less flow than smaller valves