I do just about everything alone, so would like to know what I am getting into. Ballpark would be great!!

Thanks in advance,

R

 

300 lbs+ two people can move it, but it ain't easy. I'm in the same boat as well. I'm slowly working on a cab hoist/rotisserrie for rust repair and paint. Winter project.

 

Thanks!! Looks like I'm going to have to recruit help. That's a really hard thing for me, because I have everything, and those around me usually have nothing. They borrow, borrow, borrow, and I have to go around every once in a while, to get my stuff back! So, I don't have friends, except one, and his back is so bad, that he can't help with any lifting.

I saw a really nice rotisserie, it bolted through the firewall, and through the back of the cab. However, the above-named buddy talked about instead of bolting on the "center-line" of balance, to make "legs" down to the cab mounts, then up to the center of balance. I'm not sure if using the cab mounts would be strong enough, though - I think the cab, when upside down, would be too much for them.

Thanks again,

R

 

I have seen rotisseries like what you are talking about. I like the one sketched in FF56's gallery. Looks easy to use and mounts to the cab floor: https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=89472&width=0

 

Four men can walk around with my '56 cab but its still heavy. About a year age there was a thread here on lifting and moving caB off the frame with a cherry picker. You can get a pretty decent picker on sale at Pep Boys for $100 and something and get most of your monry back when you're done.

 

Are you guys talking about glass and doors on?

 

whew, took me a while to find my pic. Here's what mine will look like, except with a jib hoist type hook-up for lifting and lowering back onto the frame.

My comment was with the the doors on, no seat, glass, steering column, etc...

 

I moved my 54 cab 4 times. The cab was complete, with seat, windows, etc. steering, everything in other words. Daily driver complete, nothing removed.

Count on 4 guys to move it around. At least 2 of them should be strong guys.
You can move it with 2 guys by sliding it back onto the frame (no bed, of course) and guiding it off the frame onto a temporary rig, but be careful because a complete cab will really want to fall forward due to the center of gravity deal.
You really have to be ready to prop it up before you start moving it or it will tip on you. This was the most scary part of the job.

Paul

 

I used my engine hoist to lift it off, doors on.. tow strap thru the windows.
we used 4 people to put it back on.

I built a dolly to hold it, 4 pieces of 4x6, a pallet from Walmart dock, 4 casters from HF, and 4 threaded rod & nuts to hold it all together..
the top 4x6 fit between the cab mounts.

You can see the dolly in this picture off to the left

thats the bed just starting to get the color sand.

Sam

 

Cab had both doors and all glass, nothing else inside. Moved the frame along side of a platform. I removed the wheels and dropped the frame down on the brake drums touching the ground. Next, I bought (4) 2X6X 10 boards. I use a rope through the doors and attached to my car to help prevent tipping forward. I used a 2x6x10 as a lever to raise the back then the front placing (2) 2x6x10's across under the cab. I again levered the rear and then the front to put the 2x6x10's on edge. I then placed the remaining (2) 2x6x10's from the frame under the cab to the platform. Last, I slid the cab off the frame and on the platform. Removed the boards using the lever method. My wife placed the boards as I raised the cab. I'm in the same boat, no help available, especially three others at the same time. Will workout reinstalling the cab later.Have a great day,Chuck

 

Chuck - thanks for the info! Mine should have all the glass out, but maybe I should keep the doors on, to help keep it from "racking"? I don't have my welder yet, hopefully soon, to mount supports across the openings...

R

 

Sam - The green paint looks great.

I have some welding to fo under my cab and since I have the bed off my truck I was just planning on cross bracing the cab them tip it back on a sheet of plywood laid accross the frame. The cab is stripped down with doors in. Is this potentially a bad idea?

Another thought I had was to use two Hydraulic jacks and a couple boards to lift the cab on each side till it clears the frame, block and brace the cab outside the width of the frame and pull the chasis out from under the cab. Again since I have the bed removed anyway I would only have to go high enough to clear the frame.

I dont see any of this stuff in the Cool Tips Sticky??

 

I replaced the front floor, and all the rear cab corners with this setup in place.. .

Sam

 

Kusto, the hyd idea might work. With just you jacking, I would box the wood using 2x6 or 2x8's. using screws. As you jack by yourself the weight center shifts side to side. Nails might pull out enough for the boxing to come apart. You also want it strong enough to support while you work under the cab. Safety, safety first. My process took a couple hours. I moved the cab a few inches and measured many, many times, then moved again.

Comment on another writers comment:
Rotating the cab onto its back may bend the back lower edge. It still going to be very heavy as the weight is more in the front. Back may bend if all that weight is against the back on plywood. Not an idea for me, could ruin a cab.
Have a great day,chuck