I have an 84 Ford F250 4x4 with a built 351 windsor in it . I just toasted the stock T-case in it and have since replaced it. Now in the venture of replacing it I have now found out well.... ALL my U joints are bad. Meaning all the needle bearings have gone astray. I want to get a set of TOUGH U joints. This truck to me is turning into a restoration. Hahaha. I dont want to replace the joints again....at least for a very long time.
Does autozone carry a farley tough Joint?
Do they make any where the cap wont come off the joint when simply removing the driveshaft?
How do I replace the joints? or remove them from the driveshaft?
thanks in advance! also what should I expect to pay per joint?
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"Speed costs money, How fast do you wanna go?"
"rumor is you could F**K up an iron ball with a rubber hammer"
The ones you're taking out have probably been in there for 23 years. What more could you ask?
If you don't have a hydraulic press you can use a large vise to push the cups out. Use a socket that is just larger than the cup to push and a socket big enough for the cup to fit in to catch it. It takes at least 4 hands to hold everything in alignment to press them this way. I've knocked them out and in with a hammer and a couple of sockets when I didn't have a large enough vise. They were still okay when I sold the thing 30,000 miles later. Make sure everything is real clean when you put it back together since this involves removing the cups from the u-joint. (So no, you won't find a set that the cups stay on by themselves when yuo remove the driveshaft. I just tie a rag around the joint to hold everything in place.)
Depends on how hard you are on them. If you're going to do a lot of off-roading or towing, I'd go with the solid u-joints as they're stronger. If you're going to use it for mostly light truck stuff with occasional heavy duty use, just get a standard wet with zerks and make sure you lube them once every year or two and they should last forever.
Depends on how hard you are on them. If you're going to do a lot of off-roading or towing, I'd go with the solid u-joints as they're stronger. If you're going to use it for mostly light truck stuff with occasional heavy duty use, just get a standard wet with zerks and make sure you lube them once every year or two and they should last forever.
ehhh Im young and I have a lead foot. The truck is used for just about everything. (ie towing, hauling, burnouts , fourhwheeling.) Its a good truck and im well into the project so its turning into a semi-resto. Maybe some day a paint job!
When you talk about using a press, you turn the joint so its facing up. the cap side of the joint. then you press it into the center of the shaft? like one cap is out and one cap is in? kind of confused in the proccess as I have never done one.
__________________
"Speed costs money, How fast do you wanna go?"
"rumor is you could F**K up an iron ball with a rubber hammer"
ehhh Im young and I have a lead foot. The truck is used for just about everything. (ie towing, hauling, burnouts , fourhwheeling.) Its a good truck and im well into the project so its turning into a semi-resto. Maybe some day a paint job!
When you talk about using a press, you turn the joint so its facing up. the cap side of the joint. then you press it into the center of the shaft? like one cap is out and one cap is in? kind of confused in the proccess as I have never done one.
Yep that is pretty much how it's done. First you need to remove the snap rings, some shafts have them on the inside of the ears on the yoke (they look like a "C") some have them on the outside (they like kind of like a "G"). Once you have all the snap rings out, I like to tap around the edges of the ears and on the cups themselves... this will help break them free before you press the cups out. I have had some u-joints that are so stubborn I have had to heat them up before they would break free... avoid this if possible. Next either use a hammer and socket, or a press, or a balljoint tool (my preferance) to press the caps out. Once you get one side out remove the cap, then drive the cross back down until the cup on the other side is out far enough to remove. With the cross free remove it from the shaft, once you have everything apart clean the ears and the bores where the cups go. I like to use a half round file to clean any burrs that may be in the bores or on the inside of the ears. I like to use a little brake cleaner to wash everything down before reassembly. With everything nice and clean and inspected for damage you are now ready to install the new u-joint. First check to make sure the bearing cups fit into the bores on the ears correctly, I like to put a little dab of grease inside all the cups to keep the needle bearings from falling out during assembly. Install the cross into the ears, push one side all the way through one of the bores and side the new bearing cap on; gently tap the cup into the bore until the snap ring groove is lined up correctly (when doing this be careful not to damage the seal on the cup). With the groove lined up on the one side flip the shaft over and install the cup on the other side... I like to slide cross up enough to get the cup lined up with the bore before tapping it in. This will prevent any of the needle bearings from falling out of the cup. Once again tap the cup into the bore until the snap ring grooves line up, once the grooves are lined up install the snap rings. Check the u-joint to make sure it moves freely with little to no resistance. If the joint feels tight you can tap on the base of the ears on the outside, this will draw the caps outward and should free up the u-joint... and you're done! Once you are done installing the u-joints, install the shaft in the truck and grease everything up. One other thing to watch out for when installing the new u-joints is sometimes the ears on the these shafts (especially front axle shafts) can get bent or distorted. You may have to straighten them out, I have found a little heat and a good sized hammer will straighten them out so things fit the way they should. One thing you will find out about owning a 4 wheel drive (if you haven't owned one before) you will either "A" learn how to change u-joints or "B" you will know how much it costs to have it done at a shop! It's not a bad job, just take your time and be patient. Hope this helps! Oh and one other thing, my personal preferance for u-joints... use greasable one on the driveshafts and solids on the axleshafts. Any greasable joint is usually pretty decent, but for solids I like the Brute Force brand... carried at Advance Auto Parts. I use my trucks similar to the way you do (not so many burnouts though) and this works well for me.
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1977 Ford F250 XLT Ranger 4wd/ 351m/ 4 spd
1984 Ford F150 4wd/ 300 six/ 4spd
1996 Ford F150 XLT 2wd/ 300 six/ M5OD
1984 Ford F250 XL 4wd/ 6.9/ C6
Last edited by Pkupman82 : 10-10-2007 at 06:33 PM.
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U-Joints
. I just toasted the stock T-case in it and have since replaced it. Now in the venture of replacing it I have now found out well.... ALL my U joints are bad. Meaning all the needle bearings have gone astray. I want to get a set of TOUGH U joints. This truck to me is turning into a restoration. Hahaha. I dont want to replace the joints again....at least for a very long time.
<= "After"
, fourhwheeling.) Its a good truck and im well into the project so its turning into a semi-resto. Maybe some day a paint job! 
