First off, thanks to ALL for opinions, recommendations, and words of encouragement!! You've been an unbelievable source of information, all of it good!

I've decided to go ahead, and keep a flattie in my '51 F2. I now have the heads off, and the block looks pretty decent. I will be pulling it, and checking it over more carefully, but so far, looks good. I have a line on several more motors, that will give me the parts I DON'T have, so it will be complete. Still undecided whether to stay 6V pos. grnd, or change over to 12 volt - the wiring is SHOT, so will have to re-wire no matter what.

So until I see any different, the donor truck is on permanent hold, and I am now learning all I can about flatties..

Again, thanks to ALL!! What a great bunch of people!

R

 

Congrats on keeping the flathead.

 

If I was you I would change it over to 12v. I changed my 51 over to 12v and like it alot better. I've had some trouble with the gen thought but I believe I have that worked out know. The only thing I might do over the winter besides doing some body work is going ahead and putting a Alternator on and doing away with the Gen. I had it changed over to 12v to but just isn't doing the job at night on keeping my light good and bright. Other than that I'm happy with it but as the guys on here said go ahead and put a Alt. on it and your problems will be gone. So I might just go ahead and do that by next year.

Scott B.
1951 f1
239 Flathead V8 3 on the tree

 

http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm
http://groups.msn.com/FordFlathead19...3/general.msnw

The first link is to the Flathead Techno site, information and discussions for the best that there is in the world of Flatmotors.

Second link is to the Forum where all these people hang out.
Make sure you look at the links on the left side of that site, read Rumbleseats tips if nothing else.

Keep plugin away.

 

Hey Roger, I'd definately dump the 6v positive ground and go for a 12v neg ground with an alternator!! Nothing sounds like a flathead! But you want to have a dependable ride so go for a simple 12v conversion. I know alot of folks here will help you if you have any questions.

Later

 

thanks, I had the first link, not the 2nd.

I haven't seen it before, but what is the fuel situation? Unleaded ok in one, or do you need to change seats, etc, like you do in other cars?

R

 

You could probably get by with runnin a "lead additive" We do in dads old truck(69 chevy)

 

They eliminated hardened seats in '51, but it doesn't make any difference. Did you find hardened seats in your block? Anyway, don't do a thing, unless you were hauling leavy loads at high RPM for extended periods, it just isn't a problem.

The best reason to go 12v alternator is so you can spend another $300 on an MSD ready-to-run electronic distributor. They are great! You get mechanical and vacuum advance, totally changeable to what your engine needs.

 

Glad to hear your keeping the flatty Roger, They are a unique engine. I agree with everyone dump the 6V and go with 12V.

 

Well, the latest...block still looks good, had been rebuilt, I think, because the top of the pistons are stamped "040" which I am assuming is a .040 overbore. A little lip on the top of the cylinders, but I don't think too bad - at least, I might not have to rebuild immediately (not sure I can go over .040, anyway, haven't looked for pistons).

Got the front brake drums off - the shoes are brand new, with very little wear on the drums! I'm beginning to thing this beast was very well maintained. Still can't for the life of me, figure out why they left the oil pan off, unless they had found something. But, after talking to Terry, he said the pan can be a real bear to take off, so perhaps they figured they'd just leave it off, if they were planning on pulling the motor.

Hopefully, tomorrow I'll start getting the motor ready to pull. Haven't checked to see if it's easier/better to yank motor and tranny together, or motor alone...

Thanks, to all. I will be going 12 volt alternator after all. Gotta rewire the whole beast, anyway, so might as well do it right.

R

 

Motor & Tranny together.
Even easier with the front sheetmetal removed.

 

I could be wrong but I don`t think .040 is any where near the limit with a Flattie.
I had a 53 F100 that I was told was at .080, I wish I still had that truck!

 

You can take almost all of the 24 stud/bolt blocks out to +.125 which is 3 5/16" then piston sizes start over at 3 5/16 + .010, etc. Its a good idea to have it sonic tested before boring - and you want to leave .100" wall thickness when you're done. They're nothing like modern blocks.

Many used to go as high as 3 3/8" in the old days.

 

Measure the taper in the cylinders accurately. +.060 would likely be the next size up, but if your cylinders aren't too tapered (up to .005"), fresh rings and a light hone would get 'er done. (Assumes the pistons still have decent fit in the cylinders) Save that meat for the "next time", unless you really want to have a brand new engine. Mine has up to .009" taper on a .030" overbore, old rings and doesn't burn any oil, and is only about 10 psi down from spec on compression. Four rings gives you some leeway!

 

Measure the taper in the cylinders accurately. +.060 would likely be the next size up, but if your cylinders aren't too tapered (up to .005"), fresh rings and a light hone would get 'er done. (Assumes the pistons still have decent fit in the cylinders) Save that meat for the "next time", unless you really want to have a brand new engine. Mine has up to .009" taper on a .030" overbore, old rings and doesn't burn any oil, and is only about 10 psi down from spec on compression. Four rings gives you some leeway!