I have an FE motor with 352 stamped on top of right bank. Did any 390 motors have 352 stamped on them? The motor has a 4 1/8" bore and a 3 7/8" stroke. The motor came out of a 1966 Thunderbird. The air breather is stamped 390 with a 4 barrel intake. I was told that some of the FE family were stamped with a 352 when they were really 390, 360, 428, etc. Thanks for any information. It will be greatly appreciated.

 

Every single FE ever made to my knowledge has had a 352 stamp on it. In your 73 to 76 trucks it will either have a mirror image of the number 105 or it will be blank. These engines were originally planned to be FT engines not FE.

 

It's almost certainly a 390, which is the most common FE and would be consistent with the air cleaner labels. Your measurements aren't very precise, though. A bore of 4 1/8 equals 4.125", which is .075" larger than a stock 360/390/410 bore (4.05"). Likewise, a stroke of 3 7/8 equals 3.875", which is almost exactly halfway between two of the most common strokes on FE motors. The 352, 360, 390 and 406 FE motors have a stroke of 3.78". The Mercury 410 and the 428 have a stroke of 3.98". Either your measurement of the bore is way off, or you have an exceedingly rare 406 (4.13" bore and 3.78" stroke) that a previous owner dropped in as a replacement.

As pointed out above, "352" is stamped into pretty much every pre-73 FE block, regardless of actual displacement. An actual 352 cid FE is identifiable by a 4.00" bore and 3.50" stroke.

karlsd a/k/a "ksd"
69 F100 Explorer 360/C6

 

Correction - I meant to say that the 360, 390 and 410 have the same bore (4.05"), but only the 390 and 406 have a stroke of 3.78". The 352 and 360 have a stroke of 3.50". The 390 is by far the most common of the FE motors, probably followed by the 428, which has the 3.98" stroke.

karlsd a/k/a "ksd"
69 F100 Explorer 360/C6

 

It is my understanding that the 352 is the most common block in the 60s and the 360 in the 70s. 390s are exceedingly rare in the trucks, somewhat common in the cars but the vast majority of blocks I run into are 352/360.

What is common about the 390 is that I have yet to met anyone selling a Ford truck or who just bought one, that doesn't say their engine is a 390. Seems that everyone with a 352/360 had their engine magically turn in to a 390! Funny thing is they either won't let you measure the stroke (really easy) or they act completely shocked to find out it isn't a 390.

The worst of the bunch is a 360.

Ken Payne
[img src="/dcforum/User_files/webmaster/usaflag.gif" valign=top align=left] Ford Truck Enthusiasts Admin

 

If you are talking about motors installed in trucks, the 352/360 is more common than the 390. If you are talking about FE motors in general, however, the 390 is more common. Lots of Ford cars had 390 engines. The 360 was only available in trucks.

karlsd a/k/a "ksd"
69 F100 Explorer 360/C6

 

if the stroke was measured from the deck and it was rebuilt with 390 truck pistons (probably bored .060 over. 4.11 so close to 4.125) which would be 1/8" below deck there's the odd stroke and bore

 

Hey Ken,

Can you clarify what you meant by "The worst of the bunch is a 360." in your post above. I just got a 69 F100, FE 352 block, that the VIN says it is a 360, it has the factory 2bbl iron intake and IT IS A DOG. I know it must be worn out. I haven't checked compression yet. What is acceptable BTW ? Did these things run well at all with a factory 2bbl ?

Mark

69F100 SWB
360/3spd on the floor cause the column broke
turns on a dime and leaves change

 

The 360 is usually the worst performer. In my experience (which is only my experience, it may not be everyone's), the 352 is a better performer. Also, a common saying:

360 has all the power of a 352 and all the mileage of a 390. Ie, the worst of each.

Ken Payne
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I've seen a standard size 352, a small 352 that looks like it's on an oval, a reverse 105 and a complete blank. These really don't mean that much. The 105 is probably the most meaning full as it's a good chance it's a truck block with heavier webbing.

I don't agree that the 360 is the worst of the bunch, I'd take a 360 over a 352 but the difference is probably small if any. The 360 isn't a dog, even in stock form my 68 F100 long bed 360 2v C6 w/headers moves nicely. The cranking compression is about 180 and I think that's normal for a new engine.

If yours is doggy, I'd start with a Pertronix upgrade and consider headers. I got headers because the stock setup was rusted thru and it was cheaper to get headers. The stock 2v is a good setup for the street but a 4v conversion would be a good upgrade.

If you compression is around 140 or more, I'd say target the ignition and rebuild the carb before you start spending too much on other things.

 

AAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHH now I understand. I would not argue with you on that point based on my experiance. BTW I was quoted $840 to long block my 360, if that is indeed what engine I have, If I do the R&R the machine shop can turn in around in 3-4 days, 12K mile warranty. Is that a fair market price for central Texas?

Mark from Abilene......

 

karljay,

. ME thinks me engine is a wee bit worn out to be spending real hard-earned, over-taxed mula. I really should take your advice and go through the carb, that shouldn't be much for a kit. It loads up badly at stop lights and at any long idle period. If I do pony up and have the thing O/H, are there any lightweight 4 bbl intake manifolds out there?

Mark

Smokin a little, and I don't mean cigars......

 

FT blocks are good.... however the heads flow terrible. The blocks have good potential for a high RPM engine thanks to the nice cranks.

Mine isn't doggy. I'm running a 390 now (was a 352) bored .30 over, medium riser 4v that I picked up at the Supernats 2 years ago. Mallory breakerless ignition (nice unit, hides completely in the distributor so it will usually fool a judge unless they open it)... though they'd catch the incorrect carb and intake in a heartbeat. Running synthetic now, maintains better oil pressure with it while running it hard... though at this point its not driveable since I'm restoring the truck. Working on the cab and grill now. I start it once a week to keep the engine interior well oiled.

Ken Payne
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Ken,

Do you sell manuals for 69 FE's like mine on cd-rom ? I want the tech stuff like how to remove the heads, starting with how not to break the rocker arm assy while removing it. I guess kinda more like a Haynes then a Chiltons.

Mark

 

We have Ford Truck factory shop manuals on CD-ROM for the 1969. Much better than a Haynes or Chiltons though I am admittedly biased. I have the thick Chiltons book for them (out of print) and I haven't even opened it since I started using factory manuals. Also, the best book for the FE is Steve Christs "How To Rebuild Your Big Block Ford" and Ford also put out some very good performance manuals in the late 60s and early 70s. We've got the Steve Christ book and licensed reprints of the Ford literature (known as "Off Highway" books and newsletters).

Ken Payne
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