Question about ESOF and locking the hubs.
#16
Well, I have been noticing a good bit of noise coming from under the front end, and considering the fact that I am pretty sure I have a vacuum leak I was very concerned after reading this thread that I had been driving around with my hubs still locked. So I ran to the shop, put the ol' girl up on the lift and spun the axles freely...whew, at least thats not it. So I started looking around for the noise and found that the adjustable trac bar I added when I put on my leveling kit was making contact with the pumpkin. So I had to drop the pitman arm and flip the trac bar so that a narrower portion of the trac bar would line up near the pumpkin, therefore not able to make contact. So far the noise is eliminated and I am very happy. I know this is a little off topic, but if it hadn't been for this thread I would not have gone under there to start looking. So thanks.... another happy customer.
Bob
Bob
#17
If you want to go to manual hubs I would definitely plug the vacuum lines. Otherwise your ventilation will go to defrost mode for a minute while the vacuum pump runs and the solenoid tries to apply a vacuum to a line open to atmosphere. This vacuum line is common with the blend door on your cabin ventilation.
I just bought a 250 with 4x4 problems (didn't know it when I bought it though). I'm only a recreational 4x4'er and wanted to be able to engage from my nice cabin (not in the middle of a mud puddle in the rain) but didn't want to shell out all that moola when I could get the Warn's. After I saw a SCORE off-road 250 diesel with the stock auto-locking hubs I decided to fix my ESOF. Two new hubs, 2 vacuum lines and a vacuum solenoid later I'm back in business and I don't regret it. It was worth it for the convenience.
One thing I learned is that the solenoid (about $50) and the vacuum lines to the hub knuckle are the weakest link. For the vacuum lines don't do what I had to do (I was in a pinch and bought the brake assembly that it comes in for about $60/each). Just take your vacuum line (rubber hose) and go to Lowe's/Home Depot and get some new hose cut for a couple of bucks.
The hubs are incredibly easy to remove/replace:
1. Remove center cap covering hub
2. Use needle-nose pliers and remove the retaining ring at the base of the hub
3. Remove hub (this may take a while to work it off depending on how long it's been on there. Feel free to use a rubber mallet to tap the hub)
4. Grease (white lithium) splines on new hub and on axle (if re-using old hubs clean them first).
5. Install new hubs
6. Install retaining ring
7. Enjoy the dirt!
I just bought a 250 with 4x4 problems (didn't know it when I bought it though). I'm only a recreational 4x4'er and wanted to be able to engage from my nice cabin (not in the middle of a mud puddle in the rain) but didn't want to shell out all that moola when I could get the Warn's. After I saw a SCORE off-road 250 diesel with the stock auto-locking hubs I decided to fix my ESOF. Two new hubs, 2 vacuum lines and a vacuum solenoid later I'm back in business and I don't regret it. It was worth it for the convenience.
One thing I learned is that the solenoid (about $50) and the vacuum lines to the hub knuckle are the weakest link. For the vacuum lines don't do what I had to do (I was in a pinch and bought the brake assembly that it comes in for about $60/each). Just take your vacuum line (rubber hose) and go to Lowe's/Home Depot and get some new hose cut for a couple of bucks.
The hubs are incredibly easy to remove/replace:
1. Remove center cap covering hub
2. Use needle-nose pliers and remove the retaining ring at the base of the hub
3. Remove hub (this may take a while to work it off depending on how long it's been on there. Feel free to use a rubber mallet to tap the hub)
4. Grease (white lithium) splines on new hub and on axle (if re-using old hubs clean them first).
5. Install new hubs
6. Install retaining ring
7. Enjoy the dirt!
#18
Originally Posted by brian42
.... After I saw a SCORE off-road 250 diesel with the stock auto-locking hubs I decided to fix my ESOF......
If you looked closely, I bet those hubs were in the locked position.
#20
Check here:
Lift Kits, Winches, Tires, & Wheels by 4 Wheel Parts
I know that Superwinch does and Warn does. I'm not sure about Mile Marker. If you still have the Dana 60 (30 or 35 spline) front axle you should find several ones to choose from. IMHO, If you are going to buy manual hubs, Warn Premium is the only way to go.
Just my .02
Lift Kits, Winches, Tires, & Wheels by 4 Wheel Parts
I know that Superwinch does and Warn does. I'm not sure about Mile Marker. If you still have the Dana 60 (30 or 35 spline) front axle you should find several ones to choose from. IMHO, If you are going to buy manual hubs, Warn Premium is the only way to go.
Just my .02
#21
First pic is solenoid connection pluged in. The second is unpluged solenoid.
#22
With the auto hubs, when you turn them to LOCK and then back to AUTO, they SHOULD unlock even without vacuum.
#23
#26
Thats strange, did you ask them what package you would need to get the manual? I love my ESOF in my truck. If you take care and do the maint. on it it realy is a good thing.
#29
#30
Only got to use it twice this winter though, on 2 inches of snow - whoopee...
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droldsmorland
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
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07-12-2016 08:40 AM