Project F-475 is what I'm calling my 360-to-410 rebuild/conversion. F for F100, and 475 for the peak torque measurement predicted by Desktop Dyno. I found a machine shop in Memphis (Performance Specialties) that knows FEs. Boyce (the owner) has been building FE's for 40 years, and he had both a 390 and a 428 being assembled when I dropped by. He's now got my 428 crank and rods and C8AE-H heads, and I should have the block to him by next weekend if all goes well.

For those of you who've done this before, I'd appreciate your thoughts on whether the prices he quoted me are reasonable. I didn't shop around much because I was just concerned with finding someone who really knew what they were doing, and I'm happy paying a little more for that experience. Anyway, here's what he quoted:

$50 to turn and prep the crankshaft
about $100 to prep all the rods
$250 to clean and magnaflux the heads, plus install new valve guides, valve job, and install hardened exhaust seats
$200 to tank, bore and hone the block, do the oiling mods, and install freeze plugs and cam bearings
$140 to spin balance

I'm probably forgetting a few things in that list, but the total for all the machine shop work is going to be anywhere from $750 to $1000 depending on what extras I get into (such as unshrouding the exhaust valves, polishing the chambers, etc.).

Also, Boyce recommended against doing CJ valves (sorry, DF), as his opinion is that they're a waste of money on a motor like mine that will never see anything over 4000 rpm. He thinks a much better bang for the buck is just unshrouding the stock 1.55" valves. I'm going along because: (1) I've got to save money somewhere, and (2) I guess I can always add them later.

Any thoughts/comments?

Karl
1969 F100 Ranger 360 (for now!)/C6

 

C'mon, guys, I need your help here. Any thoughts/advice? Are those prices pretty fair? Am I forgetting anything big?

 

IT looks cheaper than what I paid, I'd say go for the CJ valves anyways because well why not do it now? it'll save time and $$$ later when you decide to do it. Especially since your already installing hardened seats...

 

Sorry karlsd, I’ve been real busy lately and barely had time to keep up with the police work.

Those look like real good prices! I would be more concerned with quality work and knowledgeable people but it sounds like you got that already covered. That’s more important than the lowest price. What’s their opinion on CJ exhaust valves only? I like them in the old “D” style heads but maybe they shroud more than they help in the smaller jellybean chambers. A smaller valve head won’t get in the way of itself at the lower lift levels. Course you could grind away at the chamber walls to free up the bigger valves but you will start to loose your compression ratio too. What rod bolts are they going to use and any mention of align boring?

Barry

 

410
Never above 4000 RPM (ever ?)
Small exhausts valves ? (1.55 - 1.66 = 0.11)

I thought the valve cutter sould do any unshrouding needed and new bigger valves is a good way to get all the valves tha same depth which helps if you are using non adjustable rockers and you may not need any shims for the springs.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 05-Feb-02 AT 10:45 PM (EST)]O.k., I may take her above 4000 rpm every now and then, but it won't be often. This is a cruiser/hauler, not a racer. Besides, with my 3.25:1 rear end, I'm only turning about 2800-2900 rpm at 70 mph. I may go to shorter gears someday, but that won't be in the cards for quite some time, and I shouldn't need to with the monster twist this motor will be putting out.

I'm still debating on the valves. My heads have pretty small chambers right now (factory specs are 67-70 cc, but they haven't been measured yet). The machinist recommended unshrouding the existing valves, which will let them breathe better and open up the chambers a little. Reducing the compression a little isn't a bad thing, as I'll be at 9.6:1 with 70 cc combustion chambers, and I don't want to have to run premium fuel.

How much should I pay to have CJ exhaust valves installed? If he quotes me $25 each ($200 total) is that reasonable?

I'm willing to spend additional money on the motor if it'll make a real difference, but I'd also like to save some for the body and paint work that will come next.

 

Is that the cost of the valves plus installation? If they are SS than he’s very reasonable. You won’t have to worry about the valve stem heights if he is already putting in new seats. Stay with around 9.5 CR and you won’t have to deal with premium fuel and detonation. You might want to look at the cost of larger valves and head work as an investment for the future.

Barry

 

Karl, if you're on a budget (aren't we all ?) I would get the bigger exhaust valves and leave the intakes alone. The prices you're getting are higher than my shop on some things, lower on some others. Overall it balances out nicely with what my boss would charge you for the same. Do you have a cam picked yet ? I would recommend a 6500 rpm redline, that is low enough you will never hurt anything and most FE heads run out of breath at 6250 or so anyway. Once you learn to enjoy the power you find spinning a big engine that fast, you'll want to do it everyday. I know that is what happened to me ! DF

 

It is pretty hard to keep your feet off the floor isnt it DF?