Project Update!!!!

[97nukeford]

Tried to start the 67 last weekend, but couldn't find the damn keys! So, pulled the drivers side lock, took it in to have a locksmith make a key. A little FYI, for you 67-72 guys, if you ever have to have this done, make sure to take the passenger side lock, it has the key code punched on it! Anyway, they made a key from the drivers side, but it doesn't work in the ignitions. super. So, today going back to the locksmith with the passenger side lock. Hey, do you guys know how the ignition switch is attached to the dash? Is it by the notched ring on the front of the switch?

[jseim44]

Pat,
I think it is just with the notched deal, but I've never had to take mine out (knock on wood). I've heard if you run a wire from pos battery to pos coil you can "jump" the starter solenoid and it'll start and run. It seems to me like it would work unless you need that dang balast resistor inline with the coil. That knocks the voltage down so you don't get a full 12v to the coil, so if you need one and just run a wire straight to the coil with a full 12v bad things might happen.

You might research this some more. I'd hate to see you burn down your 67 or something silly just because you listened to me. I think all it will do is maybe burn out the coil or the points quicker, but I'm not really sure. I've never done it, but rather read about it from reputable people on this very site!!!

-Jake

[97nukeford]

Hey Jake, I'm actually going to do just that! Damn keys won't work, and I'm tired of screwing with it. So, I'll jump it to the coil ( or to the ballast resistor, if it has one), and just crank it with the remote starter switch I have.

thanks for the heads up!

[jseim44]

Good call. A remote starter switch is a good bit safer that just using a screwdriver or your favorite pair of pliers.

A few years back my two oldest brothers tore apart a '51 John Deere B and found the engine was seized due to some serious rust. It has sat since then, however tonight I got one valve loose and one valve out (I need a spring compresser......I'm gonna run out after supper and get one) and the other two will fight a bit, but they'll come. Much to my surprise after I got the first one out I saw that the ports were filled with dirt and crap. I'd never thought about that happening, but it makes sense because the exhaust pipe got broke off and the pivot irrigated the inside of that engine.....however it didn't grow. Anyway, I should get the head apart all the way tomorrow night after work. Hopefully I can get the pistons out of the block, get that all cleaned up, and figure out what I need by this weekend. They had intentions of restoring it, but I've talked to them and we're just going to get it running for right now.

There's also a '38 Farmall F-20 in that same building as the B at my grandpa's that's stuck, but ran when it was parked. I'm going to try to get it loose and running as well and maybe throw some paint, etc on it.

Looks like Ol' Blue has come to a holding point.......again.....

-Jake

[The_SnowMan710]

those pistons were stuck harder than the hubs of hell, might i add...

[gquinn8516]

Pat:

To take out the ignition out just take the bezel of the front and then the ignition switch should push out from behind. You can put a pair of needle nose plyers in 2 of the 3 notches then just screw it off. use a soft cloth so you don't scrape up the front bezel.

[97nukeford]

George, I did manage to get it out, but after several attempts, figured out that the coil had gone bad, so she wouldn't start. So, since I'm not going to put any money into the motor, I'll sell it as-is. Good news is, she is coming apart next week, and I'll get started on the frame resto!

[jseim44]

Man..........why do I always have so many options and not enough money? My uncle has a 68 or 69 F-100 with a 6cyl/3 speed that he bought with body work and some interior work done......while I was talking to him today he told me he'd sell it to me.......So now I'm thinking if I get it, swap my 390 in it and then get a 360 or 390 to put back in the 69 and let dad continue to use it. I dunno. I don't have that kind of money right now. I guess I'd better start saving........

-Jake

[97nukeford]

Sounds like you might have a plan there Jake! I'm in the works of cooking up a homemade rotisserie to sandblast and paint my frame with, using a couple of engine stands. Need to make a rig that will bolt to the frame, and weld a peice of tubing on it to fit into the engine stands, one on each end.

[jseim44]

You stripping her all the way down to the bare frame? Just make sure to overbuild your stands like we would in the shop at home. Hate to see something bad happen because it couldn't handle the weight!!!

-Jake

[97nukeford]

Have you tried doing this before? I have engine stands that we had around that we were going to use. I figured the frame, with everything off of it, wouldn't be all that bad.

[jseim44]

No, I sure haven't. The closest to "bare frame" I've ever had mine was taking the box off. I'm not sure how heavy the cab is. The box isn't that heavy, just awkward. My brother and I could handle it alone. The drive train will be most of the weight I would think. Maybe someone else knows what a bare frame weighs?

-Jake

[97nukeford]

Well, I thinking the two engine stands should be able to handle it.

[jseim44]

Yea, I suppose you're right Pat. If they're 1000 lb stands then that's 2000 lbs together......the frame can't weight that much when you consider what the drivetrain and axles weigh, plus the body. Let us know how that works out for you.

-Jake

[jseim44]

Has anyone made progress besides Pat? He thinks he's so special he had to start his own thread.......Anyway, I sure haven't been. I've just been saving money is all.....

-Jake