This is how to repair the "non-serviceable" plug on your HPOP
This is how to repair the plug that is on the bottom of the HPOP (the plug that you have to remove the HPOP to get to). This plug is listed in the service manual as "non-serviceable"/"do not remove".
After tracking down the leak on my HPOP, I found it to be the plug on the bottom that is not serviced in any of the kits that I read about. After hearing the horror stories about people trying to repair this leak only to have the threads strip out or the HPOP not build pressure afterwards, I made a trip to the local International dealer. I was able to speak with a very knowledgable service guy that informed me that there is indeed a service kit for this problem. He stated that the DT466 I-6 engine uses a very similar HPOP and there was actually a recall that addressed this issue. The recall was only for the I-6 though so that is why many people wouldn't know about it. He took me back and showed me how to fix the problem and while I was there I picked up the repair kit that has the instructions,new plug, o-ring, and loctite (the kit contains extra parts that aren't used on the 7.3 HPOP). The part # for this kit is 1842906C92. I would scan the instructions but I do not have a scanner, sorry. The instructions basically state that the plug should be heated before removal whch should reduce the chances of stripping out the threads. Also, before any plug is removed, the HPOP should be positioned straight up and down with the machined face down and the snap ring end up so that the "ferry plug check ball" is not disturbed. I hope this helps alot of people that don't want to/can't pony up the money for a new pump.
__________________ Early 99 7.3 F350 auto,GTP38R BB turbo, AFE stage2, 5" strait pipe, DP live tuned-PMT1 soon to happen, 140 IDM, Terminator Modified 17* HPOP , DIY fuel bowl delete, DI Regulated Return fuel feeding Ryan Casserly's SS stage 2's moded EPD process 100% over nozzles http://fullforcediesel.com/ exploded view of a 7,3 << more pix of my truck
Very good info to have, thank you. WELCOME TO FTE.
__________________ Brandon PAA MEMBER # 7.3, 99.5 CC,4X4,SB, leveled,live tuned by Jody,1.15 van turbo w ATS housing,6.0 IC,AFE big boost filter, Petes Armour, FASS/DFA fuel system,fuel bowl delete,black MBRP stacks, 02 headlights,F650 dash, and a bunch other stuff that wont fit in my sig. 287K and counting.
The bit about heating the plug to keep it from striping I would like to understand better. When I was a teenager I worked a few months at a truck tire shop and we would often heat the nuts on a big wheel to get them off since the heat would make the nut expand and hence be slightly bigger than the stud.
So if you heated the plug as mentioned above then wouldn't it expand inside its threaded hole and become more difficult to remove?
__________________
Doug
early 99F250 PSD 7.3L 4x4
Heavy Duty TC, ISSPRO gauges on the A-Pillar, AC improvement mod, True Cool. CAT delete, Harpoon and Hutch mods with prefilter
One theory is that when the plug is heated it in fact does expand and at the same time will break any corrosion bond between the thread surfaces.
When it has cooled down somewhat, it is easy to remove as mentioned above without damaging the threads.
I'm guessing that the heat is to break loose the locktight which would also save the threads
__________________
2000 PSD CC LOOOOOng bed 6spd for the next 20 years (or more) AKA Oklahoma stretch limo
86/87/88 Ranger 2.9 XLT (same truck long story) 88 ranger 2.9 4X4 lifted 20 some inches (parts car)
2003 FOCUS 2.3 5 spd (her car)
4 lines all 2pt.
To answer the question about the heat, in the instructions it was stated that the heat breaks down the loctite thus allowing easier plug removal (like piotrsko said). Even if your threads are a little mangled, I would still attempt this repair because the replacement plug has about 1/8" more threads on it than the original plug and this will allow the plug to engage threads that were previously unused. I actually performed this repair over the weekend and so far there are no leaks. However it is taking about twice as long to start in the morning than it did before I did the repair. I am going to hope that this is due to there being air in the lines but I really don't think that there is because even upon the first engine start after the repair was completed there was never a stumble, hiccup, pop, wheeze, miss or anything and the trucks runs smooth. Any suggestions?
I take it the part number is for a kit from International.
__________________
2001 F350, 4x4 off road, 7.3, DP Tunes 40,60,80, Turbo Master Waste Gate, Auto w/6.0 cooler, CC, LB, 3.73's, Royal Purple in all but the engine, 285 BFG AT's, Curtis pop-hitch, 6637, Zoo-Dad, stock downpipe then 4" Magnaflow (free), Auotmeter cubby mount gauges, CB, Sirrius, Bilstein HD shocks.
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This is how to repair the "non-serviceable" plug on your HPOP
This is how to repair the plug that is on the bottom of the HPOP (the plug that you have to remove the HPOP to get to). This plug is listed in the service manual as "non-serviceable"/"do not remove".
After tracking down the leak on my HPOP, I found it to be the plug on the bottom that is not serviced in any of the kits that I read about. After hearing the horror stories about people trying to repair this leak only to have the threads strip out or the HPOP not build pressure afterwards, I made a trip to the local International dealer. I was able to speak with a very knowledgeable service guy that informed me that there is indeed a service kit for this problem. He stated that the DT466 I-6 engine uses a very similar HPOP and there was actually a recall that addressed this issue. The recall was only for the I-6 though so that is why many people wouldn't know about it. He took me back and showed me how to fix the problem and while I was there I picked up the repair kit that has the instructions,new plug, o-ring, and loctite (the kit contains extra parts that aren't used on the 7.3 HPOP). The part # for this kit is 1842906C92. I would scan the instructions but I do not have a scanner, sorry. The instructions basically state that the plug should be heated before removal which should reduce the chances of stripping out the threads. Also, before any plug is removed, the HPOP should be positioned straight up and down with the machined face down and the snap ring end up so that the "ferry plug check ball" is not disturbed. I hope this helps alot of people that don't want to/can't pony up the money for a new pump.
Further into this thread it was"assumed" that the heating was to loosen the Loctite. Fat Baster further stated that the repair/replacement plug is
"Over sized" to compensate for any thread loss.
Rog
__________________ 1997 Red 4X2 CC S/B-3" DP- No Kitty-6637
Cooling Sys. Filter-7 Gauges-6 Pos.PHP Chip
140V IDM-The "Cure"-CCV Mod w/Filter
1.0 Turbo-No EBP-Detroit Locker/Finned Cover
U. S. Gear Exhaust Brake-Ext. plug for Heater &
Cadillac Battery Water-On board Batt. Charger
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Early 99 7.3 F350 auto,GTP38R BB turbo, AFE stage2, 5" strait pipe, DP live tuned-PMT1 soon to happen, 140 IDM, Terminator Modified 17* HPOP , DIY fuel bowl delete, DI Regulated Return fuel feeding Ryan Casserly's SS stage 2's moded EPD process 100% over nozzles 
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