Error 332: can I clean an EGR valve?
#16
Alright then, so there should be no suction on the green hose until the engine heats up? Well then, I am sure that there problem is probably either a bad, sticking valve or dirty ports under the EGR valve. Maybe I will put break cleaner in the port there the EGR valve hooks up. It could be clogged up from unburned fuel deposits. Again I don't think it's an electrical problem but I could be wrong. Statistically though -- seeing that you seem to know a lot about this and other problems -- what are the percentages of the valve itself being bad versus, say a dirty port?
Steve
Steve
Do not forget the code says the EGR valve did not open, it stayed closed when the computer grounded the EVR solenoid and the EVP sensor said the EGR valve was still closed. Could be a bad diaphragm in the EGR valve or the EGR valve is stuck closed.
More than likely it is a bad vacuum hose, wiring to the EVP sensor or EGR valve or a bad EGR solenoid.
#17
I solved my EGR problem (code 332)
Hello Everyone:
I started this thread a long time ago, so now I'll tell you what I found out.
I have, for the last couple of years, had a problem with my check engine light coming intermittently on and off. Lately, however, the light has been remaining on. The error code on my Actron tester was 332 which is identified as an emission gas recirculation problem.
Anyways, I replaced the EGR valve, only to be disappointed. The light still kept coming on. Now I know what the problem is, however. An experienced auto technician walked me through this and you will probably find out that this is more than likely your problem as well.
When you are idling the truck, take off the green hose going to the EGR valve. hook a long piece of thin hose to the EGR valve, and while the truck is running, suck on the hose. It takes little suction pressure. If the car stalls, you can automatically rule out a bad EGR valve or clogged soot or carbon in the ports. The problem is somewhere in the vacuum coming off the green hose.
Next, while the truck is running, pull off the green hose two-piped connector that is hooked up to a solenoid below the EGR valve. There is the green hose and a small black hose under it. They are actually nylon tubes that should never crack because of the type of plastic they are. The piece is a double, rubber connector with the green and black hose on it.
Now, check for a vacuum by holding your finger on the bottom of the rubber connector connected to the black hose. If you feel no suction while the truck is running, then surely you have a break somewhere in the vacuum.
Long story short: There is a V-8 like tin can that is responsible for the EGR funtioning. Facing the truck, it is located in front of the 12-volt battery. What I found was -- to my surprise -- was that one of the two hoses going into the V-8 can was cracked. I wrapped thick duct tape over it and sealed it well. Now, the light is off for good and I am sure that cured the problem.
I plan to put a piece of hose in place of the duct tape to better seal the pipe. But in the meantime, the light is off and I am very pleased that I found the problem.
Also, I failed three emissions tests before solving this problem, and I am certain that when I take the truck back in for another test, it will pass. I actually passed everything except for the NOx test. My reading over 1,700 and the limit is 859 for Ohio.
I only hope I pass the emissions test next time. I think this is what kept me from passing it in the first place.
I started this thread a long time ago, so now I'll tell you what I found out.
I have, for the last couple of years, had a problem with my check engine light coming intermittently on and off. Lately, however, the light has been remaining on. The error code on my Actron tester was 332 which is identified as an emission gas recirculation problem.
Anyways, I replaced the EGR valve, only to be disappointed. The light still kept coming on. Now I know what the problem is, however. An experienced auto technician walked me through this and you will probably find out that this is more than likely your problem as well.
When you are idling the truck, take off the green hose going to the EGR valve. hook a long piece of thin hose to the EGR valve, and while the truck is running, suck on the hose. It takes little suction pressure. If the car stalls, you can automatically rule out a bad EGR valve or clogged soot or carbon in the ports. The problem is somewhere in the vacuum coming off the green hose.
Next, while the truck is running, pull off the green hose two-piped connector that is hooked up to a solenoid below the EGR valve. There is the green hose and a small black hose under it. They are actually nylon tubes that should never crack because of the type of plastic they are. The piece is a double, rubber connector with the green and black hose on it.
Now, check for a vacuum by holding your finger on the bottom of the rubber connector connected to the black hose. If you feel no suction while the truck is running, then surely you have a break somewhere in the vacuum.
Long story short: There is a V-8 like tin can that is responsible for the EGR funtioning. Facing the truck, it is located in front of the 12-volt battery. What I found was -- to my surprise -- was that one of the two hoses going into the V-8 can was cracked. I wrapped thick duct tape over it and sealed it well. Now, the light is off for good and I am sure that cured the problem.
I plan to put a piece of hose in place of the duct tape to better seal the pipe. But in the meantime, the light is off and I am very pleased that I found the problem.
Also, I failed three emissions tests before solving this problem, and I am certain that when I take the truck back in for another test, it will pass. I actually passed everything except for the NOx test. My reading over 1,700 and the limit is 859 for Ohio.
I only hope I pass the emissions test next time. I think this is what kept me from passing it in the first place.
#19
Hey Guys Im the one that said i wa cleaninghe EGR valve . But wheni said that i didnt mean i actually had taken it apart I just blew it out good with air soot a little carb.cleane in the exaut side of t. thats about it.
s stll giving me fits. I had a x-tra egr valve put it on yesterday still same thing. Code 332 not enough flow. Im goig to check that can but ive had it ff and painted itand didnt see any rust. But goin to chk it anyway. Im glad theres been so much input on this myby someone will come up with something. thanks jeffbjones
s stll giving me fits. I had a x-tra egr valve put it on yesterday still same thing. Code 332 not enough flow. Im goig to check that can but ive had it ff and painted itand didnt see any rust. But goin to chk it anyway. Im glad theres been so much input on this myby someone will come up with something. thanks jeffbjones
#20
DTC 332 in Key On Engine Running (KOER) indicates the EVP sensor input did not change after the EVR solenoid was instructed by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to open the EGR valve.
Most of the time this is a bad vacuum line or the EVR solenoid and its wiring are bad.
Some times it could also be the EVP sensor and its wiring also.
Check the EGR valve first with a vacuum pump.
Most of the time this is a bad vacuum line or the EVR solenoid and its wiring are bad.
Some times it could also be the EVP sensor and its wiring also.
Check the EGR valve first with a vacuum pump.
#21
#22
Hey Guys Im the one that said i wa cleaninghe EGR valve . But wheni said that i didnt mean i actually had taken it apart I just blew it out good with air soot a little carb.cleane in the exaut side of t. thats about it.
s stll giving me fits. I had a x-tra egr valve put it on yesterday still same thing. Code 332 not enough flow. Im goig to check that can but ive had it ff and painted itand didnt see any rust. But goin to chk it anyway. Im glad theres been so much input on this myby someone will come up with something. thanks jeffbjones
s stll giving me fits. I had a x-tra egr valve put it on yesterday still same thing. Code 332 not enough flow. Im goig to check that can but ive had it ff and painted itand didnt see any rust. But goin to chk it anyway. Im glad theres been so much input on this myby someone will come up with something. thanks jeffbjones
You forgot to mention that you were experiencing a high idle and running hotter than normal.
That points to a sticking/stuck IAC valve on top of the throttlebody or a vacuum leak or a stuck open EGR valve.
Just adding something to check out again.
Bob
#23
OK Guys
I changed the IAC Valve Tested the EGR like somebody told me, putting pc. of hose on it and sucking on it to produce vac. engine stalled like he said it should do which should eleminate that. Ive got all the vac. tubing off the truck tested all that, no leaks. getting ready to chk. that can that holds the vac. for the egr. but i took that out and cleaned it awhile back and sure theres no hles, but im checking anyway.
PS Truckin Bob I thought i told you the over heating & high idle. That was the subject of thesequestions. Oh Well, im sorry if i didnt. Anyway I dont no what else to check. Ive checked most of the wiring, continue going over that but if anyone has any other ideals please let me no. thanks. Jeff
I changed the IAC Valve Tested the EGR like somebody told me, putting pc. of hose on it and sucking on it to produce vac. engine stalled like he said it should do which should eleminate that. Ive got all the vac. tubing off the truck tested all that, no leaks. getting ready to chk. that can that holds the vac. for the egr. but i took that out and cleaned it awhile back and sure theres no hles, but im checking anyway.
PS Truckin Bob I thought i told you the over heating & high idle. That was the subject of thesequestions. Oh Well, im sorry if i didnt. Anyway I dont no what else to check. Ive checked most of the wiring, continue going over that but if anyone has any other ideals please let me no. thanks. Jeff
#24
You would only get the 332 after the engine is warm and at high-way speed but not WOT or idle.
Make sure you clear the code with the STI wire and take it for a drive and see if the 332 comes back.
OR
You could just do a solenoid test and see if the EGR opens and closes with the solenoid test.
Make sure you clear the code with the STI wire and take it for a drive and see if the 332 comes back.
OR
You could just do a solenoid test and see if the EGR opens and closes with the solenoid test.
#25
#26
Your computer has a solenoid test, it is called "output state check". You just weight until the self-test is done putting out the CM codes then each time you floor the throttle all the solenoids (actuators) will change state.
A solenoid is called an actuator along with other items that the computer grounds that have full battery voltage on the other side like fuel injectors, IAC valve, ...., an so on.
Output State Check
The output state check aids in servicing output actuators associated with the EEC-IV system. It enables the technician to energize and de-energize most of the system output actuators on command. This mode is entered after all codes have been received from Key On Engine Off and Continuous Testing. At this time, leave Self-Test activated and depress the throttle. Each time the throttle is depressed the output actuators will change state from energized to de-energized or from de-energized to energized.
1. Enter Self-Test.
2. Code Output Ends.
3. Do Brief WOT.
4. EEC-IV Output To Actuators Energized.
5. Do Brief WOT.
6. EEC-IV Output To Actuators De-Energized.
A solenoid is called an actuator along with other items that the computer grounds that have full battery voltage on the other side like fuel injectors, IAC valve, ...., an so on.
Output State Check
The output state check aids in servicing output actuators associated with the EEC-IV system. It enables the technician to energize and de-energize most of the system output actuators on command. This mode is entered after all codes have been received from Key On Engine Off and Continuous Testing. At this time, leave Self-Test activated and depress the throttle. Each time the throttle is depressed the output actuators will change state from energized to de-energized or from de-energized to energized.
1. Enter Self-Test.
2. Code Output Ends.
3. Do Brief WOT.
4. EEC-IV Output To Actuators Energized.
5. Do Brief WOT.
6. EEC-IV Output To Actuators De-Energized.
#28
Hello Everyone:
When you are idling the truck, take off the green hose going to the EGR valve. hook a long piece of thin hose to the EGR valve, and while the truck is running, suck on the hose. It takes little suction pressure. If the car stalls, you can automatically rule out a bad EGR valve or clogged soot or carbon in the ports. The problem is somewhere in the vacuum coming off the green hose.
Next, while the truck is running, pull off the green hose two-piped connector that is hooked up to a solenoid below the EGR valve. There is the green hose and a small black hose under it. They are actually nylon tubes that should never crack because of the type of plastic they are. The piece is a double, rubber connector with the green and black hose on it.
Now, check for a vacuum by holding your finger on the bottom of the rubber connector connected to the black hose. If you feel no suction while the truck is running, then surely you have a break somewhere in the vacuum.
When you are idling the truck, take off the green hose going to the EGR valve. hook a long piece of thin hose to the EGR valve, and while the truck is running, suck on the hose. It takes little suction pressure. If the car stalls, you can automatically rule out a bad EGR valve or clogged soot or carbon in the ports. The problem is somewhere in the vacuum coming off the green hose.
Next, while the truck is running, pull off the green hose two-piped connector that is hooked up to a solenoid below the EGR valve. There is the green hose and a small black hose under it. They are actually nylon tubes that should never crack because of the type of plastic they are. The piece is a double, rubber connector with the green and black hose on it.
Now, check for a vacuum by holding your finger on the bottom of the rubber connector connected to the black hose. If you feel no suction while the truck is running, then surely you have a break somewhere in the vacuum.
Hi I am having trouble with my truck and have a koeo 332. I put suction on hose as described above and the engine stalled. Then I pulled the rubber connector from the solenoid under there and there is suction. Any idea what to do in this case?
Truck is 1991 f150 with 4.9L straight 6 and 5 sp manual trans. Check engine light is lit. It doesn't like to start when cold (ie morning) but after it warms it seems to start ok. When it does start the idle dips and surges up over and over. When driving sometimes there is no power when taking off from stop and the truck lunges in and out of acceleration. At highway speed it sometimes acts like it would if the fuel is cut momentarily. I mean it cuts out briefly and continues on. Using the check engine light flash method to pull code the only one is 332. Anyone have advice for this problem? Thanks in advance
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