Recently, my 1968 F250 brake booster started leaking. When I push on the brake pedal, I hear a hissing thru the firewall and I have to push real hard to get the brakes to work well. Rarely, but occasionally, I push the pedal and there is no hissing. But this probably only happened 1/25 times I braked and as of lately, it isn't happening at all.
I assume there is a tear in the diaphram inside the booster which allows vacuum to leak thru the booster, hence the hissing noise I am hearing thru the firewall under the dash when I apply the brakes?
Is it possible that it is something external of the booster that I could repair or replace, rather than replacing the booster itself?
Could I take this booster apart and replace the bad part myself? I know how the booster comes apart, but I am unable to find anyone who sells internal parts for the booster.

If I need to replace the booster, here is the technical question I need an answer for.
The auto parts store offers 2 different boosters for this truck. 1968 F250 2wd w/4 wheel drum. One has an adjustable push rod and one is not adjustable.

I have located a rebuilt booster for about 1/2 the price the auto parts store wants, but it has the adjustable rod, and my booster has the non adjustable push rod with the loop on the end for the bolt that attaches it to the pedal arm.

Can I buy a threaded shaft that goes from the pedal arm to this threaded push rod or do I need more than that?
Would it be hard to convert my truck to use the adjustable push rod, or do I just need to buy a simple part for the adjustable push rod booster to work?

I would be buying this rebuilt booster w/o having to return a core. Can I just remove my non adjustable push rod and install it on this adjustable rod type booster?

 

Can anyone help me on this?

 

Your booster can be rebuilt however only component rebuilders seem to have access to the parts to do so.

As far as converting to the adjustable booster it should be a matter of finding the rod.The rest is the same.Hope this helps.

 

Clay, thanks.

But I'm not quite sure if you understand about the rod.
There is a rod coming out of the booster. On the adjustable booster, the rod has a female threaded end. What I dont know is what is supposed to be on the other end of this threaded rod and if it will be comapitable with my brake pedal arm.
My truck currently uses a non adjustable rod, which is longer and just has a loop (eyelet) on the end that uses a thru bolt to attach it to the pedal arm.

I do have to push my brake pedal down quite far before I get brakes.

Is there any way to tell if my truck originally came with the adjustable booster?

Why do some trucks have an adjustable booster rod and others have a fixed rod. Why the difference?

 

With the adjustable push rod it should be set 0.931" to 0.946" long measured from the bolt face of the Bendix booster.

 

I have found a rebuilt booster for sale and it has the rod coming out of the back of the booster already. But it is the adjustable type and my truck now has the non adjustable type rod.

Can I just find the other end of the rod that attaches to the brake pedal and convert to the adjustable type booster and if so what trucks might I find this on?

Or will I need to change out the pedal also?

I'm thinking I could use the non adjustable rod form my orig booster and install it on the rebuilt booster??? yes?? no???

 

I do believe any lever will work, as long is it's not the funky cantilever style. Also, if you get a new/rebuilt one, get the booster for a 1-ton....bolts right in and you'll like the extra stopping power. I put one on and changed my mind about an expensive disc brake conversion. It makes quite a difference, anyway.

Not a very good pic, but this is the rod that came with the 1-ton booster....(The card board was a template for the bracket)

 

I'll have some great info for you in a few minutes.

Theye only show boosters for 1968 *F350's* not anything smaller

EDIT:

http://www.precisionrebuilders.com/p...ogPHB-0398.pdf

 

According to the Ford Truck Parts Catalog, there are two boosters:

One for drums = C8TZ-2005-B >> replaced by C9TZ-2005-D which means the same booster was used on 1969/70 F100/250's.

One for discs = C8TZ-2005-A.

 

Bill, I have a question about the brake pedals.
Is the brake pedal the same on a 68 manual drum/drum vs one on a 70 power disc/drum truck? In the past on this forum I have heard the
hole for the master cylinder link is different for a different mechanical advantage.
On power boosters I have seen the large app 11" double pie tin thin looking booster and the smaller app 8" diameter thicker looking booster both on F250's with power disc/drum trucks.
Both different size boosters on 70 and 71 trucks.

I have dimensions for the adjustment of the Bendix Push Rod all models except E-350, it is 0.931" to 0.946" measured off the mounting face of the booster to the push rod end.
For the E-350 only, 0.980" to 0.995".

 

No difference between power or manual brake pedals on F100/350's, the only difference is the 1967 brake pedal is different than 1968/72.

1967: C7TZ-2455-D

1968/72: C8TZ-2455-E

The F500 and larger trucks list eleven (!!) different brake pedals. There not only is a difference between manual, power, hydraulic, and air brakes, but different again because of the way the myrad boosters mounted.

 

That's nice to know as some day the 68 will have disc brakes as I have a 70 truck with disc. This gets me a spare PS, trans, driveline, rearend, sell the motor, bed sheetmetal and bumper.
What I don't understand is the different diameter boosters i've seen on the same year trucks with disc/drum.
Would this give a person a choice on how sensitive they want their braking?
The 68 with manual 2 1/2" shoe drum/drum must take 80 pounds pedal pressure for normal stopping and over 100 panic stopping.
I recall cars in the late 60's you tapped the pedal and locked up, way too sensitive. Hey it's 3:30 am I need some shut eye.

 

I believe it has to do with suppliers. Both Midland-Ross and Bendix boosters were used on some of the same models. It had to be a supply and demand issue.

 

The smaller diameter unit that is rounded and deeper would allow for more rocker cover clearance when running taller aluminum rocker covers.
Not hijack thread i'll start another in the rearend section I have a question for ya.
Hey Bill you ever sleep?. I was up again for Paul Harvey at 8:30.

 

Beemer, that info is in the link I posted.

It is a complete PDF of boosters