Hi Guys,

Have determined my clunking noise, primarily in 1st & 2nd gear, was traced to bad motor mounts and a bad trans mount (cracked). So, a stop at NAPA got me the right new mounts. Right and left are the same.

Got the truck on my lift and began spraying the original hardware with Blaster. Waited a couple of minutes and using a torque bar and a long pipe was able to break loose (without snapping any of 'em) all of 'em. I know I need to raise the motor and this is where I'm stuck. I don't have a service manual and I'm hoping one or more of you have done this and would let me know the steps/methods I need to follow to remove the old mounts and install the new.

My truck is a 5 speed w/OD and is 4 wheel drive.

I was able to get a 2x6 on the driver's side and using a floor jack on my jack bridge jacked the driver's side up about a good inch. But not high enough to clear that 1 stud out of the pocket or channel. Any hints on doing this

Much appreciated as the local shop wants $175.00 for labor to do this.

Thanks in advance!

Regards,

Jim

 

I've always used a 4x4 block, wider than the oil pan, and a floor jack to raise the motor up enough to replace a motor mount...this is with the truck on the ground too.

 

I have a related question. I'm going to throw some solid motor mounts in so should I be putting a new trans mount in to be safe or should I be alright? Any downsides to solid mounts? I don't care about the shaking or nothin' .

 

Blurry94,

Are you saying you used a 4x4 block of wood right on the oil pan itself to raise the motor? Didn't cause any denting or leaking from the pan gasket as a result of doing this this way?

Thanks for responding!!

The Road Virus,

Have no personal experience with solid motor mounts but from what I've read you're in for some shake. I know your goal is to transfer all the torque/horse to the rear wheels doing this, but I think you're giving up ride/comfort to do so. You know, replacing with factory rubber mounts will probably outlast you the second time around.

Just my .02.

Regards,

Jim

 

I want the shake. Doesn't bother me, being a young-gun and all. If anything it just screams bad *** in my opinion.

 

Young whipper snappers. Us grown up 19-year olds like to use rubber mounts

But seriously, I wanna know about this too because I think I might need to replace my motor mounts. Blurry I don't understand what you mean by using a 4x4 block, theres no way you could have jacked it up right under the oil pan.

 

When I did my oil pan, I used a 2x6 under the harmonic balancer and then a floor jack under that. If I was able to lift it enough to get the pan out, I'm sure you could get the motor mounts out this way. BTW, my upper plenum was off, but you should be able to lift enough w/o removing that.

 

OK. Got all the mounts swapped out. Replaced both motor mounts and the trans mount. Really helps to have that lift. Took the truck up to the first stop on the lift couldn't go any farther 'cause the truck is just a little longer then where my lift is setup).

What I ended up doing was to remove all the bolts/nuts for all three mounts (having the trans bottom mounting nuts free enabled the motor to float up as I jacked her up). Using my jack bridge and a bottle jack, I placed the jack directly under the lip of the standard trans edge where she bolts to the back of the block (being careful not to put any pressure on the "Y" section of the exhaust). I placed a couple of 2x6 short boards on top of the jack and jacked away. WALLAH! Slipped the 2 motor mounts out and replaced with new ones. When installing, it helped to do the front bolts on both sides first b/4 threading in the easier rear bolt to get those bolt holes aligned. Finished up with the large nuts on each side where the mount rests in the chassis cradle. Took out the rear tranny mount and easily replaced with the new one. Reefed all bolts/nuts real good.

Took her out for test drive. NICE!! Very smooth transition from a dead stop and through all gears. Was experiencing a definite clunk in 1st and 2nd. That's all GONE!! Feels real good to have accomplished this. All I was out was my time and the NAPA cost of 3 mounts.

Thanks for chiming in guys!!

Jim

ps I did nothing to the top of the motor in preparing to lift her. Everything was intact when I did this. No issues. Believe the secret to getting that motor lifted high enough to get those mounts was to unbolt the tranny mount when you do this.

 

Awesome advice Jim, I really appreciate you posting your procedure, I think I need to do my mounts pretty soon. Glad it worked out for you, thanks buddy.

 

This is little late I know, but yes, I used a block of wood on the oil pan. I removed the hardware from the motor mounts and raised the engine, pulled the old mounts, installed the new ones and dropped it back down. I did this in my garage and I didn't have a lift, though one would've been nice to have.

Glad to see you got it taken care of.

 

After thinkin I had transmission issue with a shift kit... About ready I put the factory springs back in the transmission and I found this thread..... Got me to thinking about the motor mounts..... With hoo open shifting between R and D lookin at top of motor from inside the cab the motor in drive rocks a little to the passenger side.... But reverse it goes about 3x as far to the drivers side... I'm thinking I found my culprit!!!! Gotta crawl under for a closer look tho

 

Where can I get a set of solid motors mounts for my 92 f150 5.8 4x4?

 

Little late to this one but if you haven't found any yet check out the bronco grave yards heavy duty bushings.

 

My 21 year self is searching for old-man posts on the smoothest mounts for my 95. My friends all call my truck the grandpa ride but they'll come crying to me when a piano needs moving, hoisting one of those up the 4 feet into their chevrolets is not ideal.
-Mahoney