im the owner of a ford f250 custom i only use for a dd atm and to take to car shows. well i have the stock original 400m for it. i was wondering how badly is the carrier bearing going to affect me adding a bit of performance to this motor gonna do. when i say a bit im only looking to change how it sounds for shows. before i pull the perfectly running motor out to rebuild it and make it sound nice, i wanna find a decent build. im still new to fords being that i was raised on chevy. so a bit of help is needed. i want to rebuild the motor completely stock except headers/heads/carb and intake manifold. then im gonna dual exhaust it. im also new to the military so its fun trying to work around all the bs of the base regulations. the truck will be sitting all winter because im not about to drive it in the snow and cold. so im taking advantage of this time to build a possible 2-3k build of the motor. and tranny if i can fit it in. any help is appreciated. knowing what cams i can put in the heads and such really helps to. i was considering this for starters
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...y_Code=HRCAMSM

i dunno a good set of headers i was going to go with hooker but im just unsure of what to grab.

for intake mani and carb i was planning on this
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2171/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1406/10002/-1
didnt choose that carb for the hat either
i chose it because i currently have a electric choke. unless someone can enlighten me on why to go to manual choke.
im trying to do most of this to stay all original. but the 400 sounds so sad choked for emmisions. i wanna let it breathe a bit with a bit of sound to it.

and for a rebuild kit can anyone recommend me something or is my local napa quite alright for that.

any advice is great. as i said im new to <NOBR id=itxt_nobr_5_0 style="FONT-WEIGHT: normal; FONT-SIZE: 100%; COLOR: darkgreen">ford</NOBR> and this will be my first engine overhaul by myself. ive watched a 283 get rebuilt and that was little bit here and a little bit there.

I actually posted this also in the 1973 - 1979 F-100 And Larger F-Series Trucks forum but i figured this was the more appropriate spot.

 

It won't take long before someone mentions the M after 400.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post7851001

Help this man spend his money, somebody.....

 

Maby put a 460 in unless you are really into 335's. $ for $ you get more power.

 

im fresh outa high school...barely enough to be called a man. im only looking for a specific build i can take to a engine shop and be like hey...this is what i want. heres the money. do it. it was this or a import with bolt ons...i think i went the better route lol. im new to engine work. i used to do a lot of auto body. when we are talkin auto body i can do most jobs concerning that. im just trying to learn everything i can about motorwork. i just need a better understanding/breakdown then most is all.


i considered a 460 but this motor matches the numbers. its the original. so i think im just gonna stick with it for now. more money if i decide to sell it.

 

"Numbers matching", according to a long-timer here, does not matter with Ford. And if it did, it would not matter on your vehicle. Sorry to inform you, the "value" of your vintage truck is mostly based on the price of scrap. Running vehicles, of course, garner a higher price. Now speaking of running, does your truck run now? Is the 400 in the truck?

Just out of HS? Plans for college, vocational tech, other education? Put your money where it will pay you back. This truck will NEVER pay you back for a $3000 rebuild. If it runs, drive it.

Did you ever get those other issues squared away?

 

im in the military. im set on college. and this is just a side project for fun. to prob keep around if i enjoy it a lot. and yes it currently runs.

 

Fair enough. The idea here, if I'm reading and understanding correctly, is to have some fun, a little project, & learn the ropes a bit. Check out this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...0-stroker.html

A fairly big $ build, big power, and look at the issues they are dealing with.

So, since your engine runs, let's keep it running and not tear it down just yet.

First, do a compression test. Buy or borrow a tester, one that threads into the spark plug holes. You want even compression on all cylinders, at about 110 psi or more per hole minimum. If you come up with even numbers over that, the engine is sound.

Serving suggestion for the next step: Replace the timing set with the '72 model or aftermarket equivalent, for straight up cam timing. You may have to fool with ignition timing also after that.

Dual exhaust with a crossover and quiet mufflers.

Intake with small 4bbl.

These things will get you moving in the right direction performance wise, and won't put you into a basket of parts and an out-of-service truck.

You may find it's enough motor for your needs, or you can plan for the next step.

Serving suggestion for motor rebuild: These are not rare, and the "numbers match" is not an issue. Find another 400, buy and engine stand and a 55 gallon trash bag, and tinker on it when you can, covering it up between tinkers. When you are confident it's oil-tight and can turn 7000 rpm making 600 hp with 500 lb/ft from 1500 rpm to redline, then you can bolt it in...

 

i did a compression test and they are all 110 flat on all cylinders. can u link me to a timing set? and i already have the carb and intake i wanna go with. great feedback.

 

OK, you can go to NAPA, either the store or on-line, and pull up 1971 Ford Galaxie 500, 6.6/400 engine, and find a "performance" timing set.

Same at jegs.com:

http://www.jegs.com/i/Sealed+Power/8...3121R/10002/-1#

Same at Summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/search/y...s/?Ns=Rank|Asc

These timing sets should allow "straight up" cam timing. The Ford factory set (which you may or may not still have, but which you do not now want) for your year ran the cam a few degrees retarded, supposedly helping emissions, but killing power.

This is were posting on the 335 forums would help, as you can get advice from someone who has actually installed various brands and can give you first hand info on these.

But look around on those and the NAPA site, or go to a NAPA store and tell them you want the early set for straight up timing. If you get the blank robotic stare, the on-line stores have contact info so you can confirm what you are getting before you buy.

 

In addition, you can get parts and advice here:

http://www.tmeyerinc.com/cart351M400...terstiming.htm

More required reading:

http://web.archive.org/web/200612251...f/perf02a.html

 

I went back and read that "web archive" site about the cam timing. Suggest you read it too, perhaps this isn't an issue on your engine.