This one was in a Celebrity, and there are a few versions - but the pump itself was basically round looking viewed from the front. A circle of five or six small bolts with 8mm hex heads surround it to hold it in place.

Access is a piece of cake - three 10mm fasteners (two nuts and a long bolt) hold a plastic cover and a vacuum line in place, the pulley is another four bolts (10mm) and a square shank screw driver or flat metal bar can be used in between the bolt heads to prevent the pulley from turning while the bolts are being removed.

THE ONLY REASON I am dropping this tech note here is this: While it looks as if the pump has equally spaced bolt holes around it, they are very slightly eccentric. The bolt holes only line up with the mating surface (and the gasket) if they are in one position. Don't apply sealer to anything until you have matched up the bolt holes and (if needed) suitably marked them with a felt pen.

I found this out after trying several positions, whilst in the meantime the gasket sealer got messed up and another gasket ended up being needed...

DO NOT use high temperature silicone on this gasket - it can squish out of position. The gasket surface is only about 3/16ths of an inch wide, and this can cause a leak. Plain old blue silicon can be used - but don't use very much. My recommendation is either red or copper gasket sealer spray. Apply it lightly, and allow a minute or so for it to get tacky. The original gasket doesn't have silicone sealer on it, so go figure.

The replacement pump had an arrow (or triangle) embossed in the edge of the housing on the side of the pump that needs to be on top. The gasket has a tab that sticks out which lines up with this arrow mark.

On this one, I left the pulley and belts off overnight and after the sealer had an hour to cure - filled the radiator (all hoses installed) to make sure there were no leaks without pressure, and to let the sealer set up to full strength.

Once is enough, I was not going to re-do this thing ever again!

Be extra careful when cleaning the old gasket material off, because the housing it goes into is aluminum and the mating surfaces are very easy to scar. Scrape only in line with the gasket - not in and out. Gasket remover spray is an excellent choice for this little nightmare, because it leaves no scratches.

And for cruds sakes don't overtorque those itty bitty fine thread fasteners.

FWIW, and I hope this saves someone else a bunch of hassle.

~Greywolf

 

Great post, Dutch!!!!!!!


The tips on removing the gasket are spot on, too.
Being a printer, I had access to some chemicals that we used to clean the 'glaze' off of the ink rollers in our presses.
It was called "Hancolite".
This is some POWERFUL stuff.

When used to remove gaskets and silicone sealer, it literally melts the stuff.

IF you get it on paint. . . the paint will 'krinkle up' and can be removed with your thumb and forefinger!

The ONE downside to this stuff is the toulene (sp???) in it. It is a known carcinogen (sp??).


Sorry... I didn't mean to hi-jack your thread.




Thanks again, Dutch!




















Keith