Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #106  
Old 02-18-2008, 10:33 AM
rcav8or's Avatar
rcav8or rcav8or is offline
If you use it, SUPPORT IT
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Indiana
Posts: 1,595
rcav8or is starting off with a positive reputation.
Flathead Water Pump Pulleys

Everyone says the pulleys break very easily. They DO!!! If you use a 3-jaw puller, it puts pressure in just three places at the bottom of the pulley, the absolute weakest place to do it. Trust me, they WILL break!! Even with heat. The way I will describe, the entire pulley bottom is supported, and came right off, without heat or anything.

I found a "trick" that might help. On a lot of the stock ones, the clip that goes behind the pulley and above the bearing, holding the bearing and shaft in place in the housing, has long "tangs". The kit has a regular circlip instead of the one with long tangs. But, if you take needle nose pliers, and sneak up under the pulley, you can release that clip out of the housing towards the pulley, releasing what holds the shaft and bearing in the housing.

Then, don't pull the pulley off.

You press the shaft from the impeller side, pressing it out through the impeller. I used a 6" metal tube, cut about 6" long, for holding the housing, so the pulley and shaft could go down through the tube. The impeller comes off first, then the rest of the shaft, bearing, and pulley are pressed the rest of the way out, leaving you with the pulley still attached to the shaft and bearing. Then, you can press the shaft all the way out with the pulley still attached. The book and directions tell you to pull the pulley first. The advantage of my way, is that the pulley is still attached to the shaft and bearing, then, you can support the pulley with two flat pieces of steel (I used 3/8"), with notches cut out for the shaft, underneath, in effect, supporting the pulley around the entire thing.

I broke 3 pulleys, before figuring it out. I used a 20 ton press, my wifes uncle built, and it worked great on the last pulley. Now, if they've been rebuilt before, and have the regular clip with holes, you can't get to them. Can't help you there...

R
__________________

Roger Phillips
Oxford, IN
Click the link for pictures of my truck:
1951 Ford F2


Reply With Quote
  #107  
Old 03-10-2008, 11:53 PM
60oneton 60oneton is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Greenbrier, TN.
Posts: 66
60oneton is starting off with a positive reputation.
Three quarts of kerosene, one quart of automatic trans fluid makes one gallon of rust busting liquid. The trans fluid eats the rust while the kero lubs the threads. worked pretty good for me, its also cheep to make.
Reply With Quote
  #108  
Old 03-13-2008, 10:59 PM
mrlogger mrlogger is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 5
mrlogger is starting off with a positive reputation.
removing broken spark plugs

Looks like my plugs have been around awhile in my 1997 F350 7.5 L. Bought the truck a few years back and only put a couple thousand miles a year on her delivering firewood. A plug blew out while driving and left the threads in the head. I let the mechanic take that one out. Now I have been spraying them plugs for about 3 weeks with PB Blaster and when I tried to remove the first one today the same darn thing happened. I got an easyout in there but nothings movin. Any suggestions? If I gotta do this for the other 6 I am gonna lose my patience with her.
Reply With Quote
  #109  
Old 03-14-2008, 12:34 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer AXracer is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 14,105
AXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to behold
Chuck Frank
I'd try running the engine until good and hot then immediately after shutting it off put ice on the plug getting as little on the head as possible. Try removing the plug while it's still cool and the head hot. Shrinking the plug with the rapid cooling may break it loose. If you can't run the engine to heat it you may be able to heat it around the plug with a propane torch. Work the plug back and forth if you get it to move at all rather than trying to unscrew it all at once to work the penetrating oil into the threads. If they still won't come loose you might have to bite the bullet and pull the head(s) (should take a lot less time than 3 weeks ) so you can drill them out and either get the remnants of the plug out and save the threads or put in a helicoil. Put a small amount of antiseize compound on the threads before installing the new plugs.
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!

1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE"
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships
Reply With Quote
  #110  
Old 03-14-2008, 08:05 AM
jniolon's Avatar
jniolon jniolon is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jul 1997
Location: Beautiful Hueytown Alabam
Posts: 3,215
jniolon is a splendid one to beholdjniolon is a splendid one to beholdjniolon is a splendid one to beholdjniolon is a splendid one to beholdjniolon is a splendid one to beholdjniolon is a splendid one to beholdjniolon is a splendid one to behold
fORD HAS A TSB ON THIS VERY THING !!

You might want to check on the '97 forum and see the tool/fix you need..

I remember reading about it on another board, but since my ford truck is a few years under that model... it didn't stick in my mind

later
John
__________________
my stuff.....
jniolon.classicpickup.com
Reply With Quote
  #111  
Old 03-14-2008, 08:32 AM
homade's Avatar
homade homade is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: sparta ky.
Posts: 2,158
homade has a good reputation on FTE.homade has a good reputation on FTE.homade has a good reputation on FTE.
I had this problem on a 78 that i had, ford man told me that when i installed the plugs that i was NOT tightening the plug enough on install which let carbon buildup on treads causing the problem. took his advice and never had problem again. A little off track of thread but remembered what he said caused it to start with.
Reply With Quote
  #112  
Old 03-15-2008, 07:43 PM
mtford's Avatar
mtford mtford is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 137
mtford is starting off with a positive reputation.
picked up an aresole of penatrant from walmart that claims it freezes on contact to crack things loose and then penatrates. haven't had a chance to really test it and i don't no if or how flamable it is. but if you got the engine hot and hit them with something like this then try tightening the plug first before attempting to back them out it might be helpful.
__________________
--2000 f350 Lariate PSD 4x4 crew,super chip programer, 6637 ,minor lift ,air tank system with bags and horns
--2002 Excursion Limited PSD 4x4,6637, super chip programmer, minnor lift.
Reply With Quote
  #113  
Old 03-15-2008, 09:43 PM
Delzell Delzell is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Eagle Rock CA
Posts: 197
Delzell is starting off with a positive reputation.
Nothing to add now. Just keep sending me your tips.
__________________
nvtagn
Reply With Quote
  #114  
Old 03-21-2008, 09:13 PM
jmerson jmerson is offline
Old Timer
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Centrl San Joaquin Valley
Posts: 108
jmerson is starting off with a positive reputation.
removal tool

When removing a hood or trunk or any two mating parts I take a bolt about an inch longer than the one being removed and cut the head off. Do one for each hinge or as many as needed. When doing a hood take out one of the original bolts and replace with the headless bolt. Then do the other one. Now you can support the hood with a stick or your arm, remove the other bolts and the hood will remain in place until you can take it off.
Reply With Quote
  #115  
Old 03-22-2008, 04:33 PM
Kusto's Avatar
Kusto Kusto is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 1,526
Kusto is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Do we have any publishers on here that would be interested in compiling this stuff into a handy shop referance manual? I think that would be great there tons of useful stuff here.
__________________
"Come to the DARKSIDE....We have COOKIES"

1948 Ford F-68 - Built Ford Tuff with Chevy Stuff!!!!!
2008 GMC 3500 4X4 LWB CC, Duramax, SLT - Summit White, 3" Lift, 33"x17" Toyo M/T's, Fender Flares, Aries Bull Bar, PIAA Fog Lights
Reply With Quote
  #116  
Old 03-22-2008, 05:10 PM
AJ46 AJ46 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: West central manitoba
Posts: 149
AJ46 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Wink Helpful welding tip on thin gauge

Got a small hole to fill, Use a copper plate at least 1/4" thick as a backer. Then fill your hole from the edge in ,But don't let the copper get to hot, if so just cool with water. It takes a little practice. Works better than using a filler object with the welder.

AJ46
Reply With Quote
  #117  
Old 03-23-2008, 08:48 PM
Kusto's Avatar
Kusto Kusto is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 1,526
Kusto is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ46
Got a small hole to fill, Use a copper plate at least 1/4" thick as a backer. Then fill your hole from the edge in ,But don't let the copper get to hot, if so just cool with water. It takes a little practice. Works better than using a filler object with the welder.

AJ46
As a side note, aluminium works well as backer material too and will help to draw heat out of the thin sheet metal, thus reducing the warp potential of the material being welded.
__________________
"Come to the DARKSIDE....We have COOKIES"

1948 Ford F-68 - Built Ford Tuff with Chevy Stuff!!!!!
2008 GMC 3500 4X4 LWB CC, Duramax, SLT - Summit White, 3" Lift, 33"x17" Toyo M/T's, Fender Flares, Aries Bull Bar, PIAA Fog Lights
Reply With Quote
  #118  
Old 03-24-2008, 09:48 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer AXracer is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 14,105
AXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to behold
Chuck Frank
I use a copper backer for welding holes as well, but I make mine from copper water pipe sections. I use 3/4" pipe since I had some leftover lengths handy, cut into ~ 12" lengths. rather than just crushing the end, split it lengthwise about 3" with a cutoff wheel or hacksaw, then open it up and flatten it to resemble a small pancake turner or shovel. The rest of the length you can use as a handle to keep from burning your fingers. I have several with different shapes and angles on the flattened end and different length handles to get in different areas. Make sure the copper or aluminum is tight against the back of the hole before welding, if there is any space, you will get burn thru. If that happens, you will need to grind the back of the panel flat before trying again so the backer can sit tight. If I have a number of holes to fill I keep a pail of water next to me and dunk the copper in it to cool between welds.
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!

1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE"
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships
Reply With Quote
  #119  
Old 03-24-2008, 02:39 PM
panel 56 panel 56 is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: I live in White Hall, Ark
Posts: 5
panel 56 is starting off with a positive reputation.
has any one done a flip front on a '56 F-100. if so, could you please send me the how to's and what to do and what not to does. thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #120  
Old 03-24-2008, 06:05 PM
Kusto's Avatar
Kusto Kusto is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Posts: 1,526
Kusto is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AXracer
If I have a number of holes to fill I keep a pail of water next to me and dunk the copper in it to cool between welds.
That in itself is a good tip. Never thought of that. Guess I'd rather cuss at the hot metal than think of a way of cooling the backer. Thanks for the kick in the AX to smarten me up.
__________________
"Come to the DARKSIDE....We have COOKIES"

1948 Ford F-68 - Built Ford Tuff with Chevy Stuff!!!!!
2008 GMC 3500 4X4 LWB CC, Duramax, SLT - Summit White, 3" Lift, 33"x17" Toyo M/T's, Fender Flares, Aries Bull Bar, PIAA Fog Lights
Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2008, 06:05 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
2002, 53, bolt, carriage, cooltips, f250, ford, frames, machinist, rails, remove, rusty, tips, trade, tricks, truck

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2006 F350 help for my dad wreckinball 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 12 12-12-2009 04:40 PM
Gauge Electrical Short! potemkin 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 22 11-24-2008 10:00 AM
Negative draw through Ballast Resistor using Dura Spark 60RatRod 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 28 05-29-2008 08:19 PM
CB Radio devildog_0431 Super Duty & Heavy Duty 15 05-21-2006 07:46 AM
SeaFoam Test 96_4wdr Aerostar 5 08-22-2005 08:17 AM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup