I made a 3 foot long jumper wire with alligator clips on each end. I used 14 gauge silicone hookup wire because it is very flexible. I have been trouble shooting the temp sensors on my flathead V8 (8BA) motor. Just jumpered across each wire between the two sensors, and each wire going to the gauge to check continuity, then check the temp gauge to see if any change occurs. Then I grounded the temp gauge to make sure it went all the way to "cold" then took off the jumper and it returned to "Hot" (with the ignition switch on) to verify that the gauge is working.
Sometimes simpler is better.
Be aware that the left sender is not really not variable. It is just on or off. . . . unless somebody replaced it with the wrong one.
THis is a great diagnostic tool for tuning a flathead with a vacuum gauge. I think I have seen it before on this forum, but it's so good, it bears reminding members about it in this cool tips and tricks thread. The Van Pelt website is awesome and full of good information and drawings on flathead motors.
I GUESS THIS IS ONE THAT HAS BEEN COVERED BEFORE BUT I CANT FIND THE ANSWER SO DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT FUEL TANK I CAN FIND AT A JUNK YARD THAT WILL FIT BETWEEN THE BED RAILS ON A 52 F1 SO I CAN MOVE THE TANK OUT OF THE CAB
Eddie, Welcome to FTE!
The advanced search function is really good for finding previously posted info and is almost always the best place to start looking. It's a bit hidden, so to find it go to the top of any page after logging in and click on search in the center of the narrow blue band just under the two color line drawing "Club Ford Truck Enthusiasts" logo. A drop down menu will appear, click on advanced search at the bottom of the menu. An advanced search dialog page will open. Fill in the info you want to search on. Don't forget to select this (48-56 F1, F100, etc forum) as the location to search box. If you don't find what you are looking for, try varying the keyword(s) to do more specific and/or generalized searches.
A friendly reminder: it is good etiquette to turn off the caps lock key on you keyboard when posting. All caps message is considered shouting.
Passionate about autocross racing!
1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE"
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships
If you ever needed to check to see if a wire is getting power and you can't reach a test light , like taillights ,blinkers ...... make one of these "test horn" . I've used this for years as I'm usually working alone. Flip the switch and hear the horn , you know you have power. Clips on where needed . Motorcycle horn and old clips from a dead timing light. I used it to check power to my fuel lift pump on my dodge 5.9 cummins . Thought it might be handy to share with everyone here.
__________________ Old trucks, it's a sickness-one I hope they never find a cure for! Bob Jones--Fat Fender Aficionado--FTE member since '96
49 F-2 pickup/48 F-1 panel truck
48/51 F-4 flatbed (2 in 1)/49 8N tractor www.fatfenderedtrucks.com
I have been trying for some time to find some missing emergency brake parts using the truck part numbers. The parts were the RH Emergency Brake Levers and the L & R e-brake lever links. The truck part numbers are no where to be found but it turns out that the '48-'51 F2s used the same rear brakes as the 1939-1948 Ford cars. After Googling the part number I found everything but the lever at Little Dearborn. Then at their suggestion I checked eBay and found the lever.
Below in the JobLots catalogue picture are the car part numbers in case someone else needs them.
Hard to find lever - this is the LH side.
These are the parts that I needed circled in red.
JobLots had good pictures & car part numbers in their 1939-1948 Ford Car catalogue, but they didn't have the key parts (lever and links).
I spent yesterday cleaning and removing the U Joints from my 52 F1 drive shaft.
Watched some u Tube video's showing how to replace U jounts. One thing no one said was to watch out where the grease fittings are when you put the U joint back into the shaft! Mine are both in backwards and the grease fitting is too close to the yoke. I am not taking them out after all that work. If they ever fail I will pull the drive shaft and hopefully remember to install them correctly.
I have added blue silicone hoses with Gates Power Grip hose clamps. I got them from Speedway Motors as they seem to have the better price. IMHO they give a nice clean look at a much cheaper price than braided steel.
I cut the lower 1.75" hoses to 8" and the upper 1.25" hoses at 3" pipe-to-thermostat housing and 6" pipe-to-radiator. I uses my band saw to cut the hoses. These lengths are a little different than what the parts book calls out but those lengths seemed too short.
I never did find a length specified for the lower hoses. 8" works fine on my truck.
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