I've also done that a bunch of times. I have an ongoing project for one customer that I need to notch out PVC plumbing fittings and the rotary file makes the perfect notch. I lock the drill press head so the bottom of the file is about 1/2" of the table and go at it.
Problem: you have a dashboard switch that will not accept the **** that you wish to use because the threads size is different.
For a lager thread size you can drill and tap the ****.
For a smaller thread, fill the **** you wish to use with epoxy, put some "antie-seize" on the threads of your switch shaft, place the **** on the shaft and let the epoxy harden. When the epoxy hardens the **** will screw on and off with no problem.
We used a homebuilt growler like that at the service station I worked at many years ago to test starter and generator armatures. Size and angle the frame cut so the armatures will sit in the cutout suspended above the coil. Be sure not to nick the coil wires when you cut the frame! We would lay an old hacksaw blade on top the armature with the transformer coil turned on, and rotate the armature slowly under it. If the armature was shorted (bad) the hacksaw blade would vibrate. The setup also had a rudimentary homebuilt lathe for truing the commutator and hand cranked small saw blade that was used to undercut the insulator between the commutator segments. when business was slow, we rebuilt a lot of starter and generator cores that we had r&r'd on customer's cars. We'd test the armature, the coil, cut the commutator, replace the brushes and bearings, and wash and rattle can paint the outside of the case. Put it in a box on the shelf until needed. In those days we'd use 6.00 worth of parts, 1/2 hr of labor and resell the rebuilt part for 20-40.00, the going retail rate for a rebuilt from the parts store. For reference, I was being paid 1.20/hr to do the work at the time, so it was a nice profit (for the station owner...)
Exactly what I helped my dad do back in the '70s at his service station. I was about 10 years old and could rebuild a generic generator or starter in my sleep. I still have all his tools, growler and lathe but I'd be pretty rusty if I tried now but I think I could fuddle through it if I had to.
Man, I havent used a growler since I worked at the Caddy dealership a gadzillion years ago...... ...I miss the days of rebuilding components; starters, generators, alternators, power steering pumps, master cylinders, steering gears, power brake boosters, etc
Wow, what a list of good ideas. Most of mine have already been posted by others, but here goes a real old basic. When using your bench grinder, keep the support edge less than 1/8" from the wheel. Also, while grinding, move the piece back and forth across the face of the wheel to keep the wheel flat and even. Good luck, Jag
As long as your current wiring is in good shape going to 12 volt isn't a problem. The 6 volt is twice as heavy as you need for 12 volt. The only thing is you're going to have change all your light bulbs to 12 volt and insert voltage drop resistors before any 6 volt gauges, ignition coil and heater motor. You starter motor won't be hurt as long as you don't crank on it for extended periods of time.
A tinkering fool like me loves this type of thread. :)
Originally Posted by Truxx1956
Hey FORD guys! I find it aggrivating to install an automatic Ford trans to the
engine even in the floor out of the vehicle.Here's a good one: get the correct
thread bolts for the bellhousing(usually 7/16x14) get them about 2 to 3"
longer than the stock ones, cut the heads off of them, take a cutoff wheel,
and cut a slot in the end where the head was.Then simply use a slotted
screwdriver to screw them in.You really only need about 4 of them 2 at the
top and 2 at the bottom.
Here's a picture to go with Truxx's description...
...made those in '79 and dog-nosed 'em in '09. LOL :)