While sorting a large quantity of Christmas lights I came up with the idea of putting them all in grocery bags to keep them from tangling up in storage. Later working on a wiring harness with multiple sections I realised that this also works wonders for storing them. Someone probribly thought of it before but hey it's simple and I never heard of it. Just be sure not to throw them away as trash!
Also, I just came across "French Cleats" which looks a like a cheap and good looking way to set up a workshop.
not sure what year hollow dash pulls with inserts started... but
daily driver ***** that have lost their inserts can be brightened up
by glueing or wedging in the appropriate size smooth top button,
just cut off the attachment loop on the back.
easily found at fabric stores,you get to involve your
they come in crome,painted and plastic with different patterns,
and are conciderably cheaper than 3.00 apiece
always a plus
If you spill oil or grease on your concrete floor, first wipe up the excess. I use an old-fashioned mop with Stoddard Solvent in the bucket. Then apply clean Stoddard Solvent to the stain. The important next step is to cover the spot with floor-dry and then scrub it with your foot. Pretend that you are trying to grind the floor-dry into the concrete. After the floor-dry is getting pulverized, sweep it up for re-use.
You will be suprised at how clean your concrete floor is afterwards!
Jock - 2001 F250 Reg. cab 4X4, 7.3L with CCK, auto, 305,000 mi., homebrew pw and pdl, heated towing mirrors with a timer. Stahl Grand Challenger Utility Box, Ride-Rite Air Bags, Big Rear Sway Bar, Walker BTM + Resonator, headlight relay system with daytime running lights.
Honoring Robin Hurt - Payson PSD. Robin, we'll visit again when I catch up with you!
I got a good idea from a welding mag onetime, and I'll try to share it with you guys. I will get my wife to post some pics later. Take 2 55 gal drums, cut the top out of one of them. CUt the other one in half, cut a big window out of one side of the one you cut in half.Make a angle iron set of rails to hold a chop saw. Make a rectangle frame to hold the chop saw that will slide in the rails you made earlier. Weld some 1/2" flat bar just above the rectangle frame you made to hold the chop saw. Then you can slide the frame in and out. Then weld the half 55 gal drum on top of the whole drum with the opening stradeling the rails. When you get this made, you can use your chop saw without making a mess in the floor or throwing dangerous sparks everywhere. I'll show you some pics and you'll love it!! I do It's great. I cant take all the credit for it, I just refined it.
Any one got some pics to post? The original post has no pics anymore. Sounds really cool but just can't picture it. Also, anyone got more input on the toothed cutoff blades vs abrasive? Doesn't the rpm have to be much lower? My cutoff saw (Rigid) spins way fast with abrasive style blade.
Here's my tip....Use your clear plastic food wrap to hold bolts in a socket or screws on a screwdriver when trying to start them and they keep falling out/off. I try to be resourceful and reuse the wrap off my sandwich, after licking it clean, of course.
I think there are some pics of that in my gallery. Not sure, cause I aint been in there in like forever, but pretty sure there are some pics of it. If not, I'll try to get some posted.
Found it, thanks. NICE SHOP ! Well organized and clean. I try to keep my shop looking the same, lots of work though, as you well know. Sometimes I feel like I spend as much time cleaning and organizing as I do working. I run a full time motorcycle repair shop so I feel obligated to my customers to keep it clean, but I do enjoy working in a well lit, organized shop.
When cutting aluminum with a jig saw , metal band saw or any other fine tooth cutting machine have a large lumber crayon handy . Have you trusting buddy hold the crayon on the teeth of the blade on a jig saw or band saw while you cut . The teeth will not load up with the cut metal material .
I've had this happen a couple times. Your spray can obviously has more paint/cleaner in it however it somehow has lost all the pressure and won't spray. I used to throw these away but recently found out that you just pull the little spray tab off the top, push your blow gun from a compressor into the hole and force more air in. Be careful, don't over do it just a couple shots of air and the can works just fine.
Just found out about this recently and has already come in handy a couple times.
'59 F-250 Styleside Longbed, 292, 4spd, Rockwell 5.83 dually running gear, custom NP205 overdrive.
"The truck's a Ford and the tractor's green"
dont know if this is a good tip or not but after putting the duel master cyl on i went to bleed the brakes. but how do ya fill the thing well after wander the garage a few times i saw the new bottle of gear lube sitting there. and wala the nozzle screws right on the brake fluid bottle a piece of hose on it and filling the master is now easy and spill less
1970 mustang fastback
2010 f250 v 10
2010 cadillac srx
2001 ranger retta
2007 f150 work truck
I've found dozens of uses for hand pump type oil cans, the ones that are like a vertical cylinder with a slender nozzle and squeeze lever for pumping the contents. Try one of these for filling MC that are hard to pour directly into such as some of the underfloor ones that don't line up with the inspection hole in the floor. You can find them with bendable spouts or simply slip a snug fitting piece of plastic or nylon hose over the metal nozzle. Some can have the tip of the spout unscrewed if you need more volume and less pressure. My Father was a commercial roofer who often had to deal with wasps nests under roof eves. He carried one of the pump cans filled with gasoline in his tool box. He could squirt the nest from 10 or 15 ft away and the little buggers would instantly drop to the ground like stones and die, no flying around or attacking at all.
Best of all the cans are inexpensive so you can have several (buy different colors or shapes so you can identify the contents) on hand. They even make fairly good oil dispensers!
Passionate about autocross racing!
1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE"
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships
To add to what AX said, I have used the pump type oil cans to reverse bleed (pressure bleed) brake systems. Just fill a clean one with brake fluid and hold the nozzle to an open bleed screw on the wheel cylinder and pump brake fluid back to the master cylinder. Make sure you have an air free flow of fluid before you attach it to the bleeder. It helps to have someone to close the bleed screw before you remove the nozzle from the bleeder but if you have a stiff type nozzle you can do it yourself. Just make sure you don't pump it dry and pump air into the system. Make sure your master cylinder is has enough room for the bleed fluid in the reservoir.
When painting, use some strategically placed, rather full gallon paint cans, taped to the floor, to prevent your air hose from getting tangled under the car/truck or under a tire. Such a sudden unexpected stop can cause a nice heavy build of paint, and then the dreaded run/sag. (shown here behind wheelie bars, typical car/truck would be placed behind tires)
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.