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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #151  
Old 01-14-2009, 07:09 PM
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to clean water squirters that are clogged with junk I took a needle and put the vaccum on the tank side and sucked it through, worked great and cleaned out all the mineral defosits
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  #152  
Old 01-29-2009, 10:36 PM
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"Oil Canning"
Maybe this has been previously discussed but here's a neat trick I used on the tailgate of my '60 F100 and all it took was a propane torch, a bucket of cold water, and a rag. Small spots: Heat the canned area for about 3 - 5 seconds and then quickly quench the hot spot with the wet rag. Don't get too it too hot, but it should sizzle for a second.
For a large area, I heat & quench around the area in question at different places - on the sides, wherever works. This pulls, thus flattens, the bulged steel outward. This technique usually involves at least a few hits with torch and rag to iron out the slack in the metal

My tailgate is now tight as a drum.

Warped tailgate.
Before the fix on the oil canning, I had to straighten my tailgate. It was warped - one side touched, the other didn't contact. Nothing horrendous, about an inch off -just metal doing it's thing after 40+ years of useage. I put a 2x4 between the bed and the gate on the side where the tailgate was contacting and pushed the gate on the non-contact side inward as if to close. A few gentle shoves, checking progress each time, and the tailgate was even.
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  #153  
Old 02-05-2009, 10:41 PM
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here is a cool and cheap solution to removing rust. i used it on my rims befour i painted them. all you need is some carb. cleaner and some s.o.s. pads.

ok take the can of carb. cleaner and spray some on the s.o.s. pads than just simply scrub the spot were the paint or rust is. after you srcub it for it a little you may need to add more carb. cleaner but it should make kinda of a past.
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  #154  
Old 04-08-2009, 10:01 AM
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This was posted on the Ford Barn by CapnJohn:

Quote:
I'm not going to verify or endorse this. Draw your own conclusions.
Happy knuckle busting !

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................. 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............. 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch
and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price.
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  #155  
Old 04-08-2009, 06:14 PM
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I would only use the homebrew in a well ventilated area and not near any painted surface you care about. Acetone is a very noxious, highly flamable, and a strong solvent that quickly attacks enamels and laquers alike. It has a low surface tension, and would draw the diluted ATF (a lubricant which also has a low surface tension) into very tiny spaces.
I have always believed in Liquid Wrench, but would give the homebrew a go in the right situation.
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  #156  
Old 04-28-2009, 05:55 PM
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  #157  
Old 05-21-2009, 05:28 PM
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not anything special, but its something i've done for years and was recently complemented on the idea when i arrived at a car show, so...

to those of you who drive their ride to the car shows, and hate getting bug juice all over the front... take plastic wrap(sandwich wrap or whatever you wanna call it) and spread it across the front of your truck, its clear so its not noticeable. when you get to the show, you just peel off the bug guts.
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  #158  
Old 06-15-2009, 10:12 AM
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What not to do

Thought I'd put this here rather than as an OT post.
How many times have you used a cutting torch or welder around hydraulic lines? A man from my home town was killed when he was doing just that and a spark pierced the line and sprayed hydraulic fluid which burst into flames. I do not know any of the details but I assume the pressure was residual. I had never thought that a spark would burn through a line and also never thought of hydraulic fluid being that flamable. Be careful out there.
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  #159  
Old 06-15-2009, 11:30 AM
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Just to add to the above post. I went through tractor safety courses with both of my sons. One of the major dangers of working with hydraulics is searching for leaks using your hands. When you find that pin hole leak with your bare skin it will penetrate the skin like a hypodermic needle loading your body with deadly hydraulic fluid. The fluid will have to be removed, if possible. It's not a very nice procedure it entails cutting open veins and flushing the fluid out. The correct technique to find a hydraulic leak is to insert a piece of flexible cardboard in the area you suspect the leak is, never use your hand.
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  #160  
Old 08-10-2009, 07:58 PM
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Has anyone got a cure for cleaning oil from concrete?

Like the title says, do you have any brilliant ideas of getting oil/grease out of pourous concrete? I had a leak on a truck and fixed the leak, but the stain is still here on the carport. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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  #161  
Old 08-10-2009, 08:19 PM
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Muriatic acid but read ALL the instructions over very carefully twice, wear eye and skin protection, use only in a well ventilated area like a car port.....And above all else be extra careful..........
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  #162  
Old 08-10-2009, 10:20 PM
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When I worked at the service station many years ago it was my job to scrub the concrete floors every Sunday AM before the after church traffic. I used a 1/2 gallon of diluted muriatic acid (battery acid) spread over the floor and scattered a large box of Tide detergent over it. Pushed it around a bit to even it out with a long handled stiff scrub brush. Allowed it to sit for 1/2 hour, gave the whole floor another scrub and rinsed it down with a hose. It looked like brand new concrete when it dried. There was a trough drain across the doorway, you wouldn't want to wash the acid out into the driveway or lawn. In case you didn't want to use acid I'd used a similar amount of undiluted Simple Green with the Tide instead.
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  #163  
Old 09-01-2009, 12:41 PM
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I need to know what a 56 shortbox, small window, pickup might be worth. The six cyl. motor is in good shape , clutch is gone. The body is good. It has rust in the front panel of the box, tailgate is rough,some rust on the front right side of the box grill has some damagebut useable.I have a 460 and a c-6 tranny to go in it so,I am not to interested in their condition.The owner was asking 5000$ I offered 3500$ He countered with 4000$ I walked away (for now) Also this pickup has strong family ties.I think I will go for it.What does the forum think of this deal? Thanks
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  #164  
Old 09-01-2009, 01:02 PM
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It sounds like a good deal if the body is in good shape. This post is really in the wrong place to get much of a response on it. You should start a new thread and ask the question. Also you should edit your profile and add where you live to it.

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  #165  
Old 09-01-2009, 01:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HARLEY 97 View Post
I need to know what a 56 shortbox, small window, pickup might be worth. The six cyl. motor is in good shape , clutch is gone. The body is good. It has rust in the front panel of the box, tailgate is rough,some rust on the front right side of the box grill has some damagebut useable.I have a 460 and a c-6 tranny to go in it so,I am not to interested in their condition.The owner was asking 5000$ I offered 3500$ He countered with 4000$ I walked away (for now) Also this pickup has strong family ties.I think I will go for it.What does the forum think of this deal? Thanks
Harley,
This is definitely the wrong place to post this question. This topic is for posting handy tips and tricks.
I'd suggest deleting this post and reposting by starting a new topic such as "what is this truck worth?". Also, it's near impossible to guess what it is worth just from your description, some pix would be useful, but location could make a significant difference in value: A slightly rusted truck would be worth a lot more in the rusty N-E than in the dry S-W. Same goes for a big city, vs farm country where there is something similar sitting in every other farmer's field.
Good luck with your purchase.
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2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships
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Old 09-01-2009, 01:03 PM
 
 
 
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