Rear main seal replacement on a 390
#1
#2
Rear main seal replacement on a 390
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 26-Nov-02 AT 03:57 PM (EST)]Don't know about removing your tranny or not, but be advised that it took 2 rear main changes before I figured out that the crankshaft tail was a tad out of round and that's why it kept tearing rear main seals.
There were lines scribed around the circumference of the crank tail that were worn away at the flat spot.
There were lines scribed around the circumference of the crank tail that were worn away at the flat spot.
#3
Rear main seal replacement on a 390
Hoss, Them seals aint bad for leaking, I'd recommend that you look a little higher up at the rear of the intake that is noted as being a leaker. Any oil would drain down and cause the untrained eye to suspect the rear main.
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John
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In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
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John
jowilker email me
[link:www.ford-trucks.com/users/jowilker|My Club FTE Page] Member 0004 since 01 01
[link:www.ford-trucks.net/users/jowilker/NCFTE.html|NCFTO] North Carolina Ford Truck Owners Group
In the cool still quiet of night, you can hear chevies rusting away.
#4
Rear main seal replacement on a 390
It's not really that bad a job.
Jack up the truck and put it on good strong jack stands. This job ain't worth dying over. Unbolt the motor mounts, jack up the engine and place blocks of wood between the engine and mounts. Remove the pan and oil pump, then loosen the main bearing cap bolts JUST A LITTLE BIT!! This will allow the crank to drop very slightly and allow you to get the upper rear main seal out. Remove the rear bearing cap and replace the upper seal. Replace the seal in the bearing cap and place the side seals in the grooves. This is where it gets fun. You have to put the bearing cap in without friction driving the side seals out, then install the pins to lock the side seals in. It can be frustrating but you'll get it. It helps to put just a bit of gasket sealer on the side of the cap prior to putting the side seals on, helps hold them in place. I also found that it helped to bend the lock pins VERY slightly, then install them with the bend toward the bearing cap. That way I knew I wasn't going to tear the side seal with the point of the pin.
A friend and I did this job on my '68 F-100 390 in one afternoon.
Jack up the truck and put it on good strong jack stands. This job ain't worth dying over. Unbolt the motor mounts, jack up the engine and place blocks of wood between the engine and mounts. Remove the pan and oil pump, then loosen the main bearing cap bolts JUST A LITTLE BIT!! This will allow the crank to drop very slightly and allow you to get the upper rear main seal out. Remove the rear bearing cap and replace the upper seal. Replace the seal in the bearing cap and place the side seals in the grooves. This is where it gets fun. You have to put the bearing cap in without friction driving the side seals out, then install the pins to lock the side seals in. It can be frustrating but you'll get it. It helps to put just a bit of gasket sealer on the side of the cap prior to putting the side seals on, helps hold them in place. I also found that it helped to bend the lock pins VERY slightly, then install them with the bend toward the bearing cap. That way I knew I wasn't going to tear the side seal with the point of the pin.
A friend and I did this job on my '68 F-100 390 in one afternoon.
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