I swapped the longblock in but am still using the carb/manifold/v-belt system from the old motor. I have almost everything necessary for the fuely swap except the engine harness, ECU, fuel pump, o2 sensors. I have read a couple of great articles where guys have done this in early 'stangs but haven't seen any done in 61-66 trucks.

Someone out there has done it and has picks (and also tech advice)...bring 'em on!

 

I am intrested in this myself. Is it a direct bolt in? If not what needs to be modified?

 

It is a direct bolt in. If you search the classic mustang forums they have links to tech articles. Although, I have not seen one in person or spoken to someone who has done it. From what I know you would need a donor vehicle to scavenge the fuely set up complete with:

• Upper and lower intakes
• fuel rails and injectors
• all engine sensors
• wiring harness from either the donor vehicle (hard and inexpensive way) or Painless Performance (easy way, but a lot more $$) makes a "plug and play" that is labelled and doesn't require splicing
• ECU (computer)
• O2 sensors w/ bungs welded into your collectors
• high pressure fuel pump/lines to the fuel rails
• return fuel line back to tank from fuel rail
• distributor from donor vehicle or similar one ECU can talk to

The harness part is where I am waffling. Do I attempt to splice the Ford harness into mine? I've read this is more difficult because you have to figure out what where everything goes. Or shell out the $ and buy the premade harness for the easy retrofit. I'd like to go the cheap route, because, well, I'm cheap.

I'd love to find someone who has done it and can give me some feedback.

 

I dont think I am following you. Do you have a complete harness, from the ECM, or was it cut at the firewall when the engine was pulled?

 

At this time I don't have any kind of harness for the fuel injection set up. That's one of the reasons I haven't dove into it yet. If I had it, I would probably be confident/stupid enough to go for it and work out the problems as they arise.

When I bought the motor, it had the fuel injection stuff, manifolds, injectors, etc..., but no harness. The engine harness on the late model 5.0 cars is a separate harness from the main harness. The ford ones can be sourced on ebay, craigslist for about a hundred bucks, same for the ECU. The part I'm unsure about is how to splice it into my existing truck main harness.

Famous last words...at minimum, the new system would need power for the ECU, electric fuel pump, (through the ignition circuit) and ground...how hard could it be?

 

I have a 472 CI EFI C6 combo installed in my 64 "Christine" It was a simple plug and play application as i used the entire wiring harness out of a 88 F250.

The key is to use the ford harness, computer and rewire the entire truck with modern wiring and fuses.

From head lights to tails including fuel pumps and reverse lights were used. The 86 to 89 harness is about the simplesest with a 2" bulkhead connector. I also installed the 88 dash into the 65 66 CC bezel. I really did not have to modify the wiring much to get everything working. Even have cruize control as i installed the 88 tilt collum on a 61 427 rod hanger. I have over 12 thousand miles on the truck since built.

A small block application will be a similar install as the 7.5s and 5.8s share the same puter.

Garbz

 

Gears in brain beginning to turn... I have thought about rewiring the whole shebang just to get rid of the 40+ year old wiring just waiting to betray me.

However, I didn't consider using an entire late model ford harness. I think I like that idea, It goes along with me being a cheapskate. Although, I'd have to go with a Mustang harness right? I'd want to keep my dash and column stock though. Rewire the entire truck...Kind of scary, kind of fun...
What's the worst thing that could happen? think, think, think...definitely maybe.

 

I'm totally trying to talk myself into doing this.

 

Stang harness may be a little short in places and have lots of extras. Depends on the year of your donor for the harness weather its MAP or MAF.

My harness is MAP.

Garbz

 

The way I understand it, you have a long block that you want to convert to EFI. A 302 is a 302 and F150's came with 302s in them. A trip to a "you pull it" type of yard should provide everything off of one truck. There's also the parts truck route. Buy a cheap EFI 302 F150, strip out everything you need and do the conversion. AFTER the conversion is done, part out or scrap the parts truck. You'd even have another 302 long block that you could build into a 347 for later.

 

I`m about to tackle this project on my `63 Unibody. I`ll be using a 5.0 EFI from an `89 Crown Vic along with the AOD tranny. I don`t have the entire harness, but plan on going the "used harness - cheap" route.

I found this link to be helpful :


https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...iter_V8AOD_Dri

 

Go to www.Fordfuelinjection.com which is THE reference site to go to if you are doing this swap. They tell you what to do to your harness and what you'll need to make it happen. If you are doing a swap from one vehicle to anothe and still have access to the original harness I'd grab it. For those that are thinking about doing this from parts from several vehicles need to study this site and refer to it often.

 

I am also on the bandwagon for the 5.0 efi swap. I just pulled my motor and harness last week. I am still tryin to acquire an AOD to put behind it. I am using a motor and wiring out of an 89 town car. the website bikerdude posted is great for info. There is an entire series of magazine articles about doing the swap into an early bronco. I am actually considering using the fuel tank out of the town car, and putting it behind the seat in the stock location. If you look at one of those tanks, you will see it is shaped like a behind the seat truck tank. I am gonna do some measuring and may give it a try.


ROb

 

I know it is not a 5.0 but I am beginning the swap with a 4.6L SOHC and AODE automatic. I have the entire harness from the firewall forward off my donor and I was only going to use it to power the engine. However after some more thought I am going remove all my wiring from my pickup and use this harness.

Another member on here is installing a 4.6L DOHC Lincoln motor is his 70's Ford pickup and we both have confirmed that the AODE which is just the electronic version of what you are trying to install will bolt right up to the stock transmission mount used on the Ford pickups from 65 up through the late 70's.

As others have mentioned the engine will be a direct bolt in with the engine perches off of a 70's pickup equipped with the 302. I have bolted a 302 into my 65 using the same perches as the 240 six cylinder which are the same for the "FE" series but I believe that moved the transmission mount to another location on the frame and required a new drive line made.

I know there not the same swap but some of the info could be used and I will keep everyone updated, as I get further along into the swap.

Jeff

 

Not a pickup, but I did this in my '83 Mustang. I bought a new wiring harness from Ford racing (through Summit) PN M-12071-A50. I did spend a lot of time looking for a used harness and pricing my options, because I'm cheap. In the end I spent the money, because I didn't want to use 20 year old wiring in my fresh build. The Ford harness also has a provision for deleting EGR, extra troubleshooting features, and a great set of instructions. I have not had one wiring problem so far (crossing fingers makes it hard to type!) in about 8 months of daily driving the car.

fordfuelinjection.com has a lot of helpful info if you are going to salvage bits of a harness from another car. One thing to watch out for if you are buying used harnesses is Ford changed the connectors in Mustangs several times over the years. So get all of it from one car if you can. I would also recommend you use a mass air flow system, not a speed density. The MAF system is more tolerant of changes in displacement, heads, cam, etc. I would recommend the sequential multiport system that came on Mustangs 1989-1993 with the A9L for manual or A9P for auto transmission.

Of course if you don't mind paying for a tune or figuring out how to tune it yourself when you make performance changes (or if you will never make performance changes), you could go with the more common speed density system that came on many vehicles. Lifting everything from a good parts vehicle is a good idea too, if you have the room for an extra vehicle in your garage/driveway during the project.

Some of this is from memory, I hope I got most of the facts right and this is helpful. Good luck!