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  #1  
Old 09-02-2007, 09:51 AM
rsylvstr rsylvstr is offline
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installing compressor on 2001 F150 5.L

dealer says my compressor is leaking...they want about $650 to repair...which I know will include flushing the sytem, etc etc.
but, i'm thinking about doing it myself.
1) does anyone recommend trying a last ditch effort using a sealer/charger? or will that ruin the rest of the system?
2) if i install the compressor myself, can i use the small cans of refrigerant with the cheap hose, or should i let a dealer recharge?
3) any brand of compressor to avoid ?
4) is there anything else i should be buying (hoses, etc) when i buy the compressor from Rock Auto?

there are so many listed, even several MC for my truck! help!!!
seems i might as well get the one with the clutch assembly???
And i keep reading that i should replace the condensor and receiver too?


MOTORCRAFT Part # YCC214 $201.79
Factory Installed; New Compr; COMPRESSOR AND CLUTCH ASSY.

MOTORCRAFT Part # YC2520 {#F7LZ19703AA}
Factory Installed; New Compr

MOTORCRAFT Part # YCR103RM {#F7LZ19V703AARM}
Factory Installed; Reman. Compr

MOTORCRAFT Part # YCC121RM {#F7LZ19V703RARM}
Factory Installed; Reman. Compr; COMPRESSOR AND CLUTCH ASSY.

FOUR SEASONS Part # 58152 {Ford FS10 Compressor w/ Clutch}
w/FS10 Compressor; w/ Clutch $185.79

FOUR SEASONS Part # 57152 {Reman Ford FS10 Compressor w/ Clutch}
w/FS10 Compressor; Reman Compressor w/ Clutch $181.79

SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # 0658152
New-w/ Clutch $157.79
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Last edited by rsylvstr; 09-02-2007 at 10:01 AM.
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  #2  
Old 09-02-2007, 06:21 PM
lsrx101 lsrx101 is offline
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Stay FAR away from the Four Seasons compressors. Their quality control is marginal at best. Yes, get the one with the clutch. New is the best way to go.
NEVER EVER use sealer. It will either not work or will totally hose your system. That stuff is pure snake oil.
Along with the compressor, replace the accumulator and orifice tube. Flush the evaporator and condenser and add back the proper amount of oil.

Be sure to pull a hard vacuum before charging. Don't use the cans with the hoses attached, this is just begging to get air into the system. Use a manifold gauge set with a proper can tap.

Check out the prices at www.ackits.com
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Last edited by lsrx101; 09-02-2007 at 06:25 PM.
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  #3  
Old 09-02-2007, 06:30 PM
rsylvstr rsylvstr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsrx101
Stay FAR away from the Four Seasons compressors. Their quality control is marginal at best. Yes, get the one with the clutch. New is the best way to go.
NEVER EVER use sealer. It will either not work or will totally hose your system. That stuff is pure snake oil.
Along with the compressor, replace the accumulator and orifice tube. Flush the evaporator and condenser and add back the proper amount of oil.

Be sure to pull a hard vacuum before charging. Don't use the cans with the hoses attached, this is just begging to get air into the system. Use a manifold gauge set with a proper can tap.

Check out the prices at www.ackits.com
you almost have me convinced to do it myself...looking at that site now...i'm just apprehesive about the flushing.
i don't have an air compressor, but this sounds like a good reason to buy one!
BUT, to pull a hard vacuum, i don't know anyone that has a pump...

red or blue tube?
do i need the o-ring kit? anything else? lines? etc etc. first A/C job

do i need this filter?
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=01&Product_Code=13128TSI&Category_Code=Ford01Truckfs5-4
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Last edited by rsylvstr; 09-02-2007 at 06:46 PM.
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  #4  
Old 09-02-2007, 06:48 PM
lsrx101 lsrx101 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsylvstr
you almost have me convinced to do it myself...looking at that site now...i'm just apprehesive about the flushing.
i don't have an air compressor, but this sounds like a good reason to buy one!
BUT, to pull a hard vacuum, i don't know anyone that has a pump...
do i need this filter?
Since your compressor didn't fail internally, you don't need the filter.
As for the vacuum pump, you may be able to rent one at a local "chain" parts store. If not, you can replace the parts and have a shop evacuate and charge the system. You can't do it without a vacuum pump.
Here's a thought to consider. Check out the DIY starter kits on that site. They're 3-400. It won't save you anything this time around, but the kit will pay for itself on the next AC that you fix, and the next...
It's best to flush, but you don't "have" to in this case. You can replace the compressor, o-tube, and accumulator, then add 4-5 ounces of oil. That will get you in the ballpark. The system holds about 8 ounces. One ounce too much won't hurt.

The oring kit to replace the remaining seals in the system would be cheap insurance. If you do this, get a bottle of Nylog too. That stuff is great for Ford Spring Lock fittings. Not a "have to", but it really helps against leaks later on.
Use the same color orifice that's in the truck. Probably blue.
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Last edited by lsrx101; 09-02-2007 at 06:53 PM.
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  #5  
Old 09-02-2007, 06:52 PM
rsylvstr rsylvstr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsrx101
Since your compressor didn't fail internally, you don't need the filter.
As for the vacuum pump, you may be able to rent one at a local "chain" parts store. If not, you can replace the parts and have a shop evacuate and charge the system. You can't do it without a vacuum pump.
Here's a thought to consider. Check out the DIY starter kits on that site. They're 3-400. It won't save you anything this time around, but the kit will pay for itself on the next AC that you fix, and the next...
It's best to flush, but you don't "have" to in this case. You can replace the compressor, o-tube, and accumulator, then add 4-5 ounces of oil. That will get you in the ballpark. The system holds about 8 ounces. One ounce too much won't hurt.
So, there's no way, "the compressor is leaking" could mean i have a simple O-ring leaking or anything???

i was looking at the DIY kit, not too bad... ..
I'd be at about $550 with the acucmulator and compressor/clutch...

can i use this pump to flush also? or is it only vacuum? thanks for the patience
http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=01&Product_Code=DIY-STARTER1
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Last edited by rsylvstr; 09-02-2007 at 07:11 PM.
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  #6  
Old 09-02-2007, 10:13 PM
rsylvstr rsylvstr is offline
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BTW, where is the orifice tube? just want to pull it to see if it's filled with black death or what...
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  #7  
Old 09-02-2007, 10:37 PM
lsrx101 lsrx101 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsylvstr
So, there's no way, "the compressor is leaking" could mean i have a simple O-ring leaking or anything???

i was looking at the DIY kit, not too bad... ..
I'd be at about $550 with the acucmulator and compressor/clutch...

can i use this pump to flush also? or is it only vacuum? thanks for the patience
Oh, no patience needed rsylvstr. You're asking very valid questions. You want to do it yourself, but you want to do it right. You want to save money, but you don't want to "cheap out" and do it half a**ed. I really respect that, and so will your AC system.

FS-10 compressors leak either at the front shaft seal or the compressor body seals. The shaft seal "can" be replaced but the chance of a long term repair is about 50-50 due to slight wear in the front compressor shaft bushing. (basically, it isn't worth it, BTDT). The body seals can't be easily replaced.

The initial price of that starter kit will almost negate any savings from doing it yourself on this job. The savings will be recognized when you do the "next" one. (Once your neighbors find out you can do AC repairs, those tools will more than pay for themselves) If you take care of the tools, you'll have them for years.
I've never liked side can taps personally, but everything in that kit is really good stuff. Well worth the money. (The can tap thing is just personal preference).
You can get cheaper gauges, but parts for the Mastercool gauges are available if you ever need them. That's a big plus.
I think the pump is a Robinair pump rebranded (or at least a Robinair design). They're the best out there. 1.5 CFM is suitable for motor vehicles, but a bit light if you ever decide to work on your home Central Air unit. I still have my first Robinair 1.5CFM pump from 25 years ago. It lives in my trunk for onsite service calls. Still works like new.
The book included in the kit is very well written and very useful for DIYers. I have a copy myself.
I'm not familiar with the UV dye set, but you are basically buying the light and the yellow goggles. The dye and cleaner are consumables. UV dye is UV dye, pretty much, and you can use brake cleaner or soapy water in lieu of the special cleaner.
In all, you can't beat the price of that kit for the quality of the contents. For comparison: I think I paid close to $300 for my Robinair pump, gauges, and a set of adaptors 25 years ago off of the Mac tool truck.

Sorry, that pump is vacuum only. You need about 90psi and lots of volume for flushing. Since your compressor didn't fail internally, flushing isn't strictly required.
The deal with flushing in this case is that you don't know exactly how much oil is left in the system after you replace parts, thus you don't know exactly how much to put back in. Imagine the engine in your truck without a dip stick. If you change the filter and leaky engine oil cooler, how much oil do you add back? (The cooler came with 4 quarts, but I don't know how much is still in the pan).
You can clean out the hoses with lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, etc. You "could" remove and flush the condenser if you know someone with an air compressor. There's really no flushing the evaporator offsite unless you remove it, but that's not worth the trouble.
The general rule for MVAC is about 2 ounces of oil per major component when the system is running. If you replace the compressor and accumulator, that's 4 ounces. The rest of the oil will be in the condenser and evaporator. Add 1 more ounce for loss from the leak and oil in the lines.

I hope this helps. If you have any more questions just holler. I'll answer them the best I can.
Check out the AC Forum on the AMA site: www.autoacforum.com . It's aimed at DIYers and lots of MVAC pros contribute there to help out beginners.
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  #8  
Old 09-02-2007, 11:33 PM
lsrx101 lsrx101 is offline
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The orifice tube is in the evaporator inlet tube (the smaller pipe). Wiggle and pull it out with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Your truck uses an FS-10 (Nipondenso 10P1xx) compressor. It "could" cause Black Death but usually doesn't.(any compressor "can" cause it). It was the Ford FX-15 that was THE Black Death compressor. They were gone by about 1993 IIRC. Your O-tube likely has only a flake or two of debris, but it's $2 worth of insurance to check it.

Hey, I checked out Sarges site. In your avatar Sarge looks like a Schnauzer or some such.
Sarge certainly ain't no Schnauzer!! That is one large f***ing lap dog. You should figure a way for you to lay across HIS lap for a pic!! Regardless, he's a really handsome fellow.
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  #9  
Old 09-03-2007, 11:10 AM
rsylvstr rsylvstr is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsrx101
Oh, no patience needed rsylvstr. You're asking very valid questions. You want to do it yourself, but you want to do it right. You want to save money, but you don't want to "cheap out" and do it half a**ed. I really respect that, and so will your AC system.

FS-10 compressors leak either at the front shaft seal or the compressor body seals. The shaft seal "can" be replaced but the chance of a long term repair is about 50-50 due to slight wear in the front compressor shaft bushing. (basically, it isn't worth it, BTDT). The body seals can't be easily replaced.

The initial price of that starter kit will almost negate any savings from doing it yourself on this job. The savings will be recognized when you do the "next" one. (Once your neighbors find out you can do AC repairs, those tools will more than pay for themselves) If you take care of the tools, you'll have them for years.
I've never liked side can taps personally, but everything in that kit is really good stuff. Well worth the money. (The can tap thing is just personal preference).
You can get cheaper gauges, but parts for the Mastercool gauges are available if you ever need them. That's a big plus.
I think the pump is a Robinair pump rebranded (or at least a Robinair design). They're the best out there. 1.5 CFM is suitable for motor vehicles, but a bit light if you ever decide to work on your home Central Air unit. I still have my first Robinair 1.5CFM pump from 25 years ago. It lives in my trunk for onsite service calls. Still works like new.
The book included in the kit is very well written and very useful for DIYers. I have a copy myself.
I'm not familiar with the UV dye set, but you are basically buying the light and the yellow goggles. The dye and cleaner are consumables. UV dye is UV dye, pretty much, and you can use brake cleaner or soapy water in lieu of the special cleaner.
In all, you can't beat the price of that kit for the quality of the contents. For comparison: I think I paid close to $300 for my Robinair pump, gauges, and a set of adaptors 25 years ago off of the Mac tool truck.

Sorry, that pump is vacuum only. You need about 90psi and lots of volume for flushing. Since your compressor didn't fail internally, flushing isn't strictly required.
The deal with flushing in this case is that you don't know exactly how much oil is left in the system after you replace parts, thus you don't know exactly how much to put back in. Imagine the engine in your truck without a dip stick. If you change the filter and leaky engine oil cooler, how much oil do you add back? (The cooler came with 4 quarts, but I don't know how much is still in the pan).
You can clean out the hoses with lacquer thinner, brake cleaner, etc. You "could" remove and flush the condenser if you know someone with an air compressor. There's really no flushing the evaporator offsite unless you remove it, but that's not worth the trouble.
The general rule for MVAC is about 2 ounces of oil per major component when the system is running. If you replace the compressor and accumulator, that's 4 ounces. The rest of the oil will be in the condenser and evaporator. Add 1 more ounce for loss from the leak and oil in the lines.

I hope this helps. If you have any more questions just holler. I'll answer them the best I can.
Check out the AC Forum on the AMA site: www.autoacforum.com . It's aimed at DIYers and lots of MVAC pros contribute there to help out beginners.
the one thing that makes me think it should either be left to the pro's (or i flush every part of the system) is that i used one of the death kits...aka: recharge kits. I'm not sure, but i think one of the times i recharged it, i used a can or two with leak sealer....

so with my luck:
1) there is way too much oil in the system
2) the "sealer" gunked up the rest of the system
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  #10  
Old 09-04-2007, 10:50 AM
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If the compressor just leaks, and hasn't broke internally, Just R&R the Compressor and Accumulator.
Change any leaking O-Rings and spring locks while your at it.
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  #11  
Old 09-06-2007, 07:53 PM
rsylvstr rsylvstr is offline
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with everything going on, no time to take care of myself....found a good AC guy....two o-rings replaced and recharged, $162 including tax....saved me about $550 over the dealer.

coldest AC i've ever had...and you can't even tell the compressor is running, VERY quiet...that's too weird though...I've always easily heard the compressor come on in the past, for the past 5 years!
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Old 09-06-2007, 07:53 PM
 
 
 
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