Did the EBV Brake today
#1
Did the EBPV Brake today
I dont care if it helps slow down a load or not. I love the way it sounds. I just cut the red wire and ran 12v and a toggle to the factory connector.
I do kinda think the the stock air box kinda helps resonate some of the sound. Kinda gives it that jake brake sound. Im just wondering if when i put my 6637 intake on if it will sound the same or if it will have more of the whistle sound. I think i have the worst good luck though, when I went to town after i did the install every single traffic light i came to was green. Normaly a good thing but not when your wannting to try out your new toy.
I do kinda think the the stock air box kinda helps resonate some of the sound. Kinda gives it that jake brake sound. Im just wondering if when i put my 6637 intake on if it will sound the same or if it will have more of the whistle sound. I think i have the worst good luck though, when I went to town after i did the install every single traffic light i came to was green. Normaly a good thing but not when your wannting to try out your new toy.
Last edited by 97 HD; 08-31-2007 at 11:36 PM.
#3
97 hd I would recommend cutting the other wire and running it straight to a ground, this will avoid sending any feed back into the system that could get to the PCM or what ever is up the line. Coon hunter I did a write up on the process, the only thing it doesn't cover is the TC lockup https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-write-up.html hope that helps if you end up doing it.
#5
#6
#7
Ground is ground.
If it goes through the frame, its still grounding with the same ground as everything else.
Just takes a different route then the other things. Positive is what you really have to worry about usually. If positive is sharing a circuit, you can get feedback.
IMO, Better safe then sorry on the ground however. And it probably looks cleaner if you do it correctly.
I would make it with a disconnect also. A good one though. Not to crimp ons shoved into each other. Those are prone to corrosion, and being an open ground, that would be bad.
Solder everything! Give your truck some love!
If it goes through the frame, its still grounding with the same ground as everything else.
Just takes a different route then the other things. Positive is what you really have to worry about usually. If positive is sharing a circuit, you can get feedback.
IMO, Better safe then sorry on the ground however. And it probably looks cleaner if you do it correctly.
I would make it with a disconnect also. A good one though. Not to crimp ons shoved into each other. Those are prone to corrosion, and being an open ground, that would be bad.
Solder everything! Give your truck some love!
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#8
So just to clarify for my little peanut brain, you tested the 2 wire harness to see which one gets hot to actuate the EBPV. Cut off the plug and ran that wire that gets hot to your new switch and then to a keyed 12V source. Then the other unused wire on the harness got grounded. Is that correct?
#10
#11
Originally Posted by MagKarl
So just to clarify for my little peanut brain, you tested the 2 wire harness to see which one gets hot to actuate the EBPV. Cut off the plug and ran that wire that gets hot to your new switch and then to a keyed 12V source. Then the other unused wire on the harness got grounded. Is that correct?
#12
#13
I did mine last Friday then drove 260 miles each way on a camping trip. the camper grosses about 4k-not super heavy.
But, there is a very noticeable effect when I actuate the brake.
I had cut both of my wires and isolated and insulated the wires going back to the PCM.
Then I just wired in an old 2-speed rear end switch I got from the boneyard for $3.00.
Used a fuse tap to the radio circuit so it was keyed.
Looks good and sounds awesome. Was coming down some steep switchbacks and rarely touched the foot brake.
Can't comment on the pulsed voltage charge to the solenoid. I didn't see anything on my volt meter when I was locating the hot wire that indicated anything other than a steady 12.5 volts.
Bottom line: Very cool sound and definite pronounced results for a total cost of $5 - $7 (depending on the value of on-hand solder, wire, and heat shrink)
But, there is a very noticeable effect when I actuate the brake.
I had cut both of my wires and isolated and insulated the wires going back to the PCM.
Then I just wired in an old 2-speed rear end switch I got from the boneyard for $3.00.
Used a fuse tap to the radio circuit so it was keyed.
Looks good and sounds awesome. Was coming down some steep switchbacks and rarely touched the foot brake.
Can't comment on the pulsed voltage charge to the solenoid. I didn't see anything on my volt meter when I was locating the hot wire that indicated anything other than a steady 12.5 volts.
Bottom line: Very cool sound and definite pronounced results for a total cost of $5 - $7 (depending on the value of on-hand solder, wire, and heat shrink)
#14
I think its either on page 3 or 4 that Kwik talks about the pulse modulation.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...brake-mod.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...brake-mod.html