Anouther Plug change/tune up
#1
Anouther Plug change/tune up
after taking some vacation i finaly got around to changing the v10 plugs.
i didn't get any "durring" pics, but i'll try and describe the process.
-first i took off most of the stuff that was blocking access to the plugs, air intake, vacume lines, pcv valve.
for each plug i used the same steps
- took off the coil connector
- removed the 7mm bolt holding the COP down
- removed the COP
- inspected the boot of each plug (no visible cracks/tears)
- used an air hose to blow all debris away from the plug
- removed the plug (whitch ALL were tight to begine with)
- checked the OEM gap (it averaged out to be a .064 between all of them)
- measured the new plugs to a .054 gap
- installed the plug hand tight with socket and extension
- put a 3/8" in/lb torque wrench to torque them down
- re-installed the COP securely
- reattached the COP plug
the only fun ones were the last 2 (of course), i was able to remove the last 2 on the passanger side almost one handed, you just about had to, haha! i was able to get the torque wrench in there to properly torque them also.
i plan on re-torqueing them after a few miles and a few heat cycles of the engine. and plan on scheduling them into my tune-up routine about every 25-30K (that seems to be the average miles that everyone is going with)! before install i had the battery unhooked for apx a day, and cleaned the MAF with some brake clean and let fully dry before re install! i also cleaned the IAC with with brake clean too (after noticing that it won't idle down past 1100 the last tank of gas).
belive it or not, it's almost like a different truck. idles back down to apx 8-900rpm's smooth running, and steady/faster acceleration! didn't really pay attention to the gas "lie-o-meter".
here's the plugs after 60K on the clock, i noticed a slight miss, over the last few hundred miles, and i finaly had time to change them! that's about the clearest pic i could get of them. i don't see where they say those can go 100K, i know that 60K was to long, but i just didn't have any time to tackle it with my worck schedule!
i didn't get any "durring" pics, but i'll try and describe the process.
-first i took off most of the stuff that was blocking access to the plugs, air intake, vacume lines, pcv valve.
for each plug i used the same steps
- took off the coil connector
- removed the 7mm bolt holding the COP down
- removed the COP
- inspected the boot of each plug (no visible cracks/tears)
- used an air hose to blow all debris away from the plug
- removed the plug (whitch ALL were tight to begine with)
- checked the OEM gap (it averaged out to be a .064 between all of them)
- measured the new plugs to a .054 gap
- installed the plug hand tight with socket and extension
- put a 3/8" in/lb torque wrench to torque them down
- re-installed the COP securely
- reattached the COP plug
the only fun ones were the last 2 (of course), i was able to remove the last 2 on the passanger side almost one handed, you just about had to, haha! i was able to get the torque wrench in there to properly torque them also.
i plan on re-torqueing them after a few miles and a few heat cycles of the engine. and plan on scheduling them into my tune-up routine about every 25-30K (that seems to be the average miles that everyone is going with)! before install i had the battery unhooked for apx a day, and cleaned the MAF with some brake clean and let fully dry before re install! i also cleaned the IAC with with brake clean too (after noticing that it won't idle down past 1100 the last tank of gas).
belive it or not, it's almost like a different truck. idles back down to apx 8-900rpm's smooth running, and steady/faster acceleration! didn't really pay attention to the gas "lie-o-meter".
here's the plugs after 60K on the clock, i noticed a slight miss, over the last few hundred miles, and i finaly had time to change them! that's about the clearest pic i could get of them. i don't see where they say those can go 100K, i know that 60K was to long, but i just didn't have any time to tackle it with my worck schedule!
#4
Originally Posted by Antelope V-10
Thanks for the write up Jason I have been looking at doing mine. How does the cop come out with the fuel rail right above it?
i used the Autolite Platinum 103's, same as Mc (same company different lables)
i torqued mine to 168in/lbs (apx 14ft/lbs)
#6
Originally Posted by chissler
what about the autolite xp's? anybody tryin them?
or maybe NGK iridiums???
or maybe NGK iridiums???
i got my Autolite Plats from wally world and saved a couple bucks compared to a dealer. i think the dealer wanted 2.?? per plug.........wally world is 2.75 (give or take) for 2 plugs.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by TeamMudd
from what i've heard, ther's no gain for the money on a stock V10..........
i got my Autolite Plats from wally world and saved a couple bucks compared to a dealer. i think the dealer wanted 2.?? per plug.........wally world is 2.75 (give or take) for 2 plugs.
i got my Autolite Plats from wally world and saved a couple bucks compared to a dealer. i think the dealer wanted 2.?? per plug.........wally world is 2.75 (give or take) for 2 plugs.
I too think 100k is too long for plugs.
#9
Originally Posted by chissler
well.... I am a dealer and they cost me nothing if I request that they are for my personal rig because they know I will push them if I like them.
On my other vehicles I just screw em in and try them, but that wouldnt be reasonable on my V-10.
On my other vehicles I just screw em in and try them, but that wouldnt be reasonable on my V-10.
as long as you work at the steelership, and don't mind changing them quicker than the rest of us that use the standard plug, go for it man! last post i remember about iridiums on FTW they barely went 10K and were shot.
now i've read where using a S/C you may want to get more into plugs, or if you have a race application. the standard Autolite 103's are working great in mine and after a tank of gas i will check the torque and the plug color of a couple cylinders. i run low grade gas, and after the plug change i no longer have any pining (although it was barely noticable before, i no longer have it).
if you do run the plugs, please post pics of the plugs after so many miles. even though i woudn't recomend them, i would like to see the plug color after so many miles, just to see how they run.
#10
Originally Posted by dkf
Stealeship charged me $6 a plug and over $12 per boot. 10plugs and 10boots $190+ out the door.
I too think 100k is too long for plugs.
I too think 100k is too long for plugs.
i don't know about the boots at the dealership, i never asked a price on them. for more than $12 per boot, it almost would have been worth it to get a whole new accel COP ($25ea). and i've missed a couple on scambay for $150 for the set of new Accel COP's!
at least when your next change comes around remember that wally world has them majority of the time, stocked full!
#11
when you're comparing prices, keep in mind there are single platinums and double platinums.
i sell XP103's for $6.49 ea, AP103's for $2.69, and APP103's for $4.69
and I sell boots for $4.08 each.
I've had awesome luck with the XP's and have several currently running with over 60k miles (yah I plan on tune ups soon) but I've never tried them in a modular.
i sell XP103's for $6.49 ea, AP103's for $2.69, and APP103's for $4.69
and I sell boots for $4.08 each.
I've had awesome luck with the XP's and have several currently running with over 60k miles (yah I plan on tune ups soon) but I've never tried them in a modular.
#12
Originally Posted by chissler
I've had awesome luck with the XP's and have several currently running with over 60k miles (yah I plan on tune ups soon) but I've never tried them in a modular.
Actually...makes NO sense to install a plug that advertises more...when you are not also changing the ignition system. If you have an OEM Stock ignition system on a V10, then the XP's would be a waist of $$$...IMO.
If you go with them...run'em...and let us know here in V10 Land!
biz
#13
Good Job!
Originally Posted by TeamMudd
i didn't get any "durring" pics, but i'll try and describe the process.
So...did you use anti-seize on the new plugs? I know most do, but have read so many threads that folks prefer not to.
Also, did you use die-electric grease inside the boots?
Thanks,
biz
#14
Originally Posted by biz4two
Always a first time!
Actually...makes NO sense to install a plug that advertises more...when you are not also changing the ignition system. If you have an OEM Stock ignition system on a V10, then the XP's would be a waist of $$$...IMO.
If you go with them...run'em...and let us know here in V10 Land!
biz
Actually...makes NO sense to install a plug that advertises more...when you are not also changing the ignition system. If you have an OEM Stock ignition system on a V10, then the XP's would be a waist of $$$...IMO.
If you go with them...run'em...and let us know here in V10 Land!
biz
even with a FULL MSD ing in my race truck i still have faith in my AutoLite 3923's.........last the longest and burn the best!
#15
Originally Posted by biz4two
Nice write-up TeamMudd!
So...did you use anti-seize on the new plugs? I know most do, but have read so many threads that folks prefer not to.
Also, did you use die-electric grease inside the boots?
Thanks,
biz
So...did you use anti-seize on the new plugs? I know most do, but have read so many threads that folks prefer not to.
Also, did you use die-electric grease inside the boots?
Thanks,
biz
as for the antiseize........i did not in this instance (don't bash me to bad guys). i'd heard from anouther FTE member that his had a tendancy to back off after XX miles, so on his next change he didn't use it, and they stayed torqued every time he checked them.
as for grease, i did use a "dab" of synthetic red grease on the inside. i didn't glob it in there, just a dab!