Back Window Not Working
#1
Back Window Not Working
I haven’t posted here before and just stumbled upon this site today, but it looks like you guys all know what you are talking about...anyway...
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My back window doesn’t roll up anymore. We checked the motor using an extra piece of wire and a battery and it works. But none of the switches have power. I don’t have the manual and we were looking for a list of the fuses that are in the fuse box in the engine compartment (under the hood not in the cabin) thinking that it might be that...well more hoping. <O></O>
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Anybody have the layout of the fuses? Or have any other suggestions?<O></O>
<O></O>
My back window doesn’t roll up anymore. We checked the motor using an extra piece of wire and a battery and it works. But none of the switches have power. I don’t have the manual and we were looking for a list of the fuses that are in the fuse box in the engine compartment (under the hood not in the cabin) thinking that it might be that...well more hoping. <O></O>
<O></O>
Anybody have the layout of the fuses? Or have any other suggestions?<O></O>
#2
Unplug the harness at the tailgate...............
Then check to see if you have power there first, if you have power there you most likely have a broken wire on the harness going into the tailgate it's self.
Also there is an interlock switch in the tailgate to prevent the window from going up or down unless the tailgate latches are engaged sometimes the rods that go to that switch in the tailgate get bent or the plug ends may have come off the interlock switch themselves.
GL.
Rick.
Also there is an interlock switch in the tailgate to prevent the window from going up or down unless the tailgate latches are engaged sometimes the rods that go to that switch in the tailgate get bent or the plug ends may have come off the interlock switch themselves.
GL.
Rick.
#3
Why do you say the switches have no power? Did you probe them or are you just saying that because they don’t work? I don’t have a manual anymore so I can’t help you with fuse placement, but it wouldn’t take very long to check them all. I’d start with the safety switch in the tailgate as Red Ford suggests, it’s mounted to the driver side latch. Then check wiring between the body and tailgate.
Last edited by screwy; 08-30-2007 at 10:47 PM.
#4
I'm a dumb girl, you'll have to forgive my not so technical explanation...We tested the power coming from the wires that are ran into the tailgate from the cabin with an electrical tester (at the plug ends). It didn’t even produce a little bit of voltage. We then tested the motor that rolls the window up and down with wires and a battery and it works. So my uncle, who is working on the car for me came to the conclusion that the motor is good, but its not getting any power from the wires. I will have him check the interlock switch. I saw somewhere yesterday that there was a switch, but didn’t know what side to look on, or what to look for!
#6
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#8
on the tailgate, the catches on either side, are most likely the culprit.
Open your tailgate, close the catches on both sides, and then try your switches. I am willing to bet they will work.
Short term solution to this problem is to wrap the catch posts with duct tape or electrical tape to widen them so that this problem will go away for a while.
Long term, buy new posts and put them in to kill the problem for another twenty years.
Open your tailgate, close the catches on both sides, and then try your switches. I am willing to bet they will work.
Short term solution to this problem is to wrap the catch posts with duct tape or electrical tape to widen them so that this problem will go away for a while.
Long term, buy new posts and put them in to kill the problem for another twenty years.
#9
its way easier than all of that...you dont need to buy a new drivers side latch, just bypass it. get two of the connnecters on a wire and they plug right in. it took about 10 min once we got the right connectors. that way you wont ever have to worry about the latch again, you will know its closed when you shut the gate. look at the wiring diagram on page 12-62 of a haynes manual, section E47, if you dont have one, there will be a red-yellow wire running to the tailgate latch switch, and a tan-black one running from it. connect the two however you want, it will think it has a closed circuit all of the time.
#12
Welcome to FTE
Just because the motor works doesn't mean it will raise the window...there's the dreaded replaceable plastic gear to consider. When the gear strips (common) motor will run, but window won't move. The gear kit is available from parts stores and Ford, and is the same kit for all Ford power window motors (car & truck) from 1970 thru the 1990's.
One of the rear window switches is also still available from Ford. I'll check and post which one.
D0AZ-62234A24-B .. Gear Kit
EDIT: D8TZ-14529-B .. Rear (Tailgate) Window Switch-Toggle Type on Dash. FTE sponsor DIRECTFORDPARTS shows: List $22.43 / FTE member net $15.57. Sponsors are listed on the home page..refresh if you don't see this one.
Just because the motor works doesn't mean it will raise the window...there's the dreaded replaceable plastic gear to consider. When the gear strips (common) motor will run, but window won't move. The gear kit is available from parts stores and Ford, and is the same kit for all Ford power window motors (car & truck) from 1970 thru the 1990's.
One of the rear window switches is also still available from Ford. I'll check and post which one.
D0AZ-62234A24-B .. Gear Kit
EDIT: D8TZ-14529-B .. Rear (Tailgate) Window Switch-Toggle Type on Dash. FTE sponsor DIRECTFORDPARTS shows: List $22.43 / FTE member net $15.57. Sponsors are listed on the home page..refresh if you don't see this one.
Last edited by NumberDummy; 10-12-2007 at 07:17 PM.
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