increased torque help
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All I've done to mine is underdrive pulleys drop in K&N air filter shorty headers and true duals with glasspacks.....if I only have that little bit and can make a damn Hemi eat my shiny chrome rear bumper...then so can you...especially if you just wanna do bolt ons for the moment..same boat that I'm in.....u want some good juice?Convert to a carb and swap the cam at the same time with headers n exhaust...you'll be good to go.And it'll haul some ***......
#7
underdrive pulley kits usually come with a crank,waterpump, and altenator pulley.....the crank pulley is usually smaller while the later two are bigger than stock.With the crank pulley about 2 inches smaller in diameter...the motor will turn rpm's faster....the reason they put bigger pulleys for the waterpump and altenator in the kit are to correct this.....the bigger pulleys will bring the charging levels and water circulation back to almost stock but you'll be able to "spool up" to a higher RPM alot faster which will give you some more hp and help you get off the line quicker.
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You can twist the distributor a little see what the lower end likes. But afterwards you will need to modify the dist to keep the full advance correct. I start with about 15 initial timing. The motor might agree to 17-19 initial. But will also depend on your mech advance curve, vac advance curve, tranny, tune, altitude etc... The last 302 I messed with liked 17 initial, I don't recall the total.
On some models the mechanical advance is limited by a button in a slot. I have made new out of tough plastic with good results. The button can be filed to increase total mech advance so set for the aggressive initial tweek then to get the lower end working, then file down to set the total advance in range. Total timing is not far off with stock CR and cam. So if dist range is 6 initial to 34 total advance (example) mech advance is 28 deg. Setting for 15 to 34 requires reducing by 9 for a 19 deg total.
By spout I assume you mean vacuum advance. Timing is always set with the vac pot unplugged.
Keep in mind, cranking the dist without correcting is a compromise of the upper end. It reduces the symptoms of a slow mech advance ramp.
If this is a little much for your situation, then look into a mech advance curve kit. Will not be near as good. But is a reasonable compromise.
On some models the mechanical advance is limited by a button in a slot. I have made new out of tough plastic with good results. The button can be filed to increase total mech advance so set for the aggressive initial tweek then to get the lower end working, then file down to set the total advance in range. Total timing is not far off with stock CR and cam. So if dist range is 6 initial to 34 total advance (example) mech advance is 28 deg. Setting for 15 to 34 requires reducing by 9 for a 19 deg total.
By spout I assume you mean vacuum advance. Timing is always set with the vac pot unplugged.
Keep in mind, cranking the dist without correcting is a compromise of the upper end. It reduces the symptoms of a slow mech advance ramp.
If this is a little much for your situation, then look into a mech advance curve kit. Will not be near as good. But is a reasonable compromise.
#15