Hello to all, First time posting.
I have a 1996 302 5spd Bronco that has recently aquired a ignition problem.
I have replaced the wires, plugs, cap and rotor and just yesterday the ignition module. The truck will seemingly be fine driving along and all the sudden that truck will buck and carry on. The tach drops to zero and all engine power is lost. And as quickly as it happens its over and the truck is running fine again. I drove it on cruise for 300 miles yesterday and it happened about fives time with no regularity. So frustrating, does anyone have any suggestions. I was told the igniton module would solve the problem but no luck.
Gas line dryer gas line dryer always try the cheapest first!!!!
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86 fs bronco 302 auto 33x12.50 at rusty but trusty!
04 Ranger edge 3.0 5 speed auto 4.10
Before posting fuel related problems Run a couple of bottles of dedicated gas line dryer through IT!!!!!!!
There now I don't have to say it every time!!!!
I have had many that had a capaciter on the circut bord in the PCM go bad and do all sorts of things like this.
I would pull your PCM and take the cover off and look at the capaciters (tall round things with 2 wires going into the bord)there are 2 on the bord if they look like they are leaking then they are bad. You can get them at radio shack for under $1.00 and you can soder in new ones with a small soder iron.
Welcome to the club! I chased this very same problem in my 89, 302 for a couple of weeks!
I pulled the ECM and had it checked, and it seemed to be OK.
I did all the same stuff you changed...the ign module is usually the cause of this and other maladies of this sort.
I had a spare O2 sensor, so I changed that also...didn't help.
Ditto with a coil that I had in my spare parts...didn't help.
On a whim, I replaced the Throttle position sensor...and the old 'bucking' problem went away!!! I would never have thought this would cure it, but it did!
Now another problem has shown it's ugly head...my power is down some what and my mileage has been reduced almost 2 MPG, and the engine seems to vary RPMs at road speeds with the throttle held steady. Power seems fine off the line, but is noticeably 'down' at freeway speeds???
The fun never stops...I put in a new rebuilt engine last year and all systems ran fine for about six months...some of the systems being re-used just seem to be breaking down!
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-2001 Excursion Limited, 6.8 Ltr, 4x4...Tow Vehicle for our 28 ft Airstream.
-1999 F-350 4x4 SRW 5.4 Ltr, 4" Lift, 4.56 gears, Rear Tru-Trac Diff,
325/65R18 "X" AT's, DynaTrac Free-Spin Ft. Hubs, With a Lance 10ft Camper up back.
-1989 Big Bronco 5.0, 4.10 w/Lockers
Welcome. I plan to replace the distributor this weekend as it is easier than just replacing the stator. If that does not fix it I'll hunt for the capacitors wherever the PCM is. Here's my story http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/63...5-minutes.html The chase has been on for about a year now and the issue keeps getting worse.
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If your ignition control module is a black Motorcraft (CCD system) do not replace it with a gray one. No disrespect intended, just my personal nightmare.
FTE is great! Be a supporter to keep this forum going. 94 5.8 EB, 460 air inlet tube, K & N drop in, MSD Blaster, 9 mm Ford Racing Wires, mechanical oil and temp guages and the rest all stock.
hey to all and thanks for all the help, I am not sure who gets this message but regardless. I have changed the fuel filter and this actually went down hill from there, no the truck will start but quit shortly there after, I did put the filter in right! So now I am going to replace the TPS that was recommneded to me by Diesel Dave, but I can not find it in my haynes book, do I have one? And where is it? thats to all for their help.
have you pulled codes, pull codes oh did i mention pull codes. dont go changing sensors until you have otherwise you are just wasting money. a faulty tps will throw a code. I would also check your fuel pressure at the rail should be 39-45psi max thats with key on. what brand spark plugs are you running? plug wires are on the correct firing order etc..
Ruckus14...you have the exact same symptoms I had...forgot to mention I replaced the module inside the dist also...but the TPS was the final cure. It's one the intake close to the block and the distributor...read your shop manual, you have to adjust it properly, but it's not hard to do...kinda hard to get to, as I remember, but doable.
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-2001 Excursion Limited, 6.8 Ltr, 4x4...Tow Vehicle for our 28 ft Airstream.
-1999 F-350 4x4 SRW 5.4 Ltr, 4" Lift, 4.56 gears, Rear Tru-Trac Diff,
325/65R18 "X" AT's, DynaTrac Free-Spin Ft. Hubs, With a Lance 10ft Camper up back.
-1989 Big Bronco 5.0, 4.10 w/Lockers
The tps is on the bottom of the throttle body. If you follow the shaft that the butterflys connect to (one side is gas pedal cable cam other side of tb little black plastic with wires) that is what the tps is connected to. I always recommend gas line dryer now adays with gas prices so high nobody likes filling up that big bronco tank all the way. So all that empty space lets condensation build up. And eventually you are sucking water up to some degree. Might as well clean your IAC if you are going to do the TPS anyway!!
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86 fs bronco 302 auto 33x12.50 at rusty but trusty!
04 Ranger edge 3.0 5 speed auto 4.10
Before posting fuel related problems Run a couple of bottles of dedicated gas line dryer through IT!!!!!!!
There now I don't have to say it every time!!!!
Thanks for the help I have now located the TPS but how the HELL.............That thing is buried, you hae to remove that alternator, AC hose and another coolant hose just remove it not to mention get the TPS lined up right, for shifting reasons.....ANy tips would be greatly appreciated or maybe a special screwdriver or tool
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