No start - 10psi @ schrader
#1
No start - 10psi @ schrader
I run WVO (start on B100) in my PSD, when it runs... It's been down about a month, since I changed my fuel pump. It will start with starting fluid, but won't run unless I hold the RPM's over 1500. It seems like it's not getting fuel, so I checked the schrader valve and it only has 10 psi when I'm cranking. The fuel filter harness wires were bare and frayed (aftermath of a biodiesel leak), so I taped them up to keep them from touching, but the connectors on the ends of the pigtails are soaked with fuel. I'm thinking it may be the wires, connections or sensors they plug into. It was already throwing codes P0236, P0341, and P1211 when it was running (had low power & stalled also). I checked yesterday, and it threw a P0603. Do you guys think it's the PCM, or something else?
Here's what I checked/replaced:
-hpop level
-fuel hoses (air leaks)
-#22 fuse
-CPS replaced
-cleaned filter bowl (filthy!!!)
-taped wires
Your help is appreciated
Here's what I checked/replaced:
-hpop level
-fuel hoses (air leaks)
-#22 fuse
-CPS replaced
-cleaned filter bowl (filthy!!!)
-taped wires
Your help is appreciated
#2
#4
#6
Ether is a no-no
Don't ever use ether on these engines. It gets you nowhere and you run the risk of blowing it up or bending something. Fix the electronics and the fluids and she will run. If not the ether gives you nothing other than the thrill of hearing it fire off. Very risky for such a short-lived payoff.
#7
i would definitely replace the electronics since the wires got all freyed or put new wires in. also do as was said above and blow in the fuel line to see if you get bubbles in the tank. then we can rule that out. check/clean the fpr screen, it's in the little hole in the right side of the fuel bowl. get a q tip and break the cotton part off of it and use the stick part very gently b/c the screen is very easy to break.
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#8
#9
thanks for the responses; i'll try to address all the issues mentioned.
-I'm pretty sure the pump is okay - i'm going to blow down the lines into the tank in just a few minutes
-as for the 1211, I had that before she died, if that means anything. i did just pull out the IPR, and I'm going to clean it out
-the reason I replaced the fuel pump is because of a leak. I had one start spewing in May, and then the new one went, too. the truck ran while it was leaking like crazy, and for just a few minutes after I changed the pump. it's been dead since.
-i've cleaned out the fpr, including the screen. replaced o-rings, put back in, still no start. it's back out now, and unfortunately, I've lost the check ball... does anyone know what size it is and where to get just the ball? by the way, what is the sensor attached to the fpr? it's pretty soggy with fuel...
-as for cranking, no smoke; tach moves
-I'm done with the ether; my mechanic friend who suggested it almost got his face blown off, and now I need a new air filter housing
I'm going to blow air into the lines, and clean out this IPR for now. Let me know what you guys think...
-I'm pretty sure the pump is okay - i'm going to blow down the lines into the tank in just a few minutes
-as for the 1211, I had that before she died, if that means anything. i did just pull out the IPR, and I'm going to clean it out
-the reason I replaced the fuel pump is because of a leak. I had one start spewing in May, and then the new one went, too. the truck ran while it was leaking like crazy, and for just a few minutes after I changed the pump. it's been dead since.
-i've cleaned out the fpr, including the screen. replaced o-rings, put back in, still no start. it's back out now, and unfortunately, I've lost the check ball... does anyone know what size it is and where to get just the ball? by the way, what is the sensor attached to the fpr? it's pretty soggy with fuel...
-as for cranking, no smoke; tach moves
-I'm done with the ether; my mechanic friend who suggested it almost got his face blown off, and now I need a new air filter housing
I'm going to blow air into the lines, and clean out this IPR for now. Let me know what you guys think...
#10
#11
BTW: Welcome to FTE, Forgot to mention it the first time.
It may not be getting fuel yet? and you still have air in the fuel system. Did you put more fuel into the fuel bowl? and then try starting it.
There is not a ball in the FPR normally but a 3/16 Ball wil bump the FP up a bit. Look here for more info:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...mming-fpr.html
It ani't getting fuel, at least not yet anyway. How long have you been cranking on it to get it started? It wil take a while to get the air out of the fuel system, especailly if you didn't fill the filter after the pump change.
I hopr that didn't do any internal damage to the engine. Do not get another OEM housing. Search this forum for 6637 filter, the OEM housing hsa been know to leak dirt and destroy the turbo!
and for just a few minutes after I changed the pump. it's been dead since.
-i've cleaned out the fpr, including the screen. replaced o-rings, put back in, still no start. it's back out now, and unfortunately, I've lost the check ball... does anyone know what size it is and where to get just the ball? by the way, what is the sensor attached to the fpr? it's pretty soggy with fuel...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...mming-fpr.html
-as for cranking, no smoke; tach moves
-I'm done with the ether; my mechanic friend who suggested it almost got his face blown off, and now I need a new air filter housing
Last edited by Cuda_jim; 08-25-2007 at 05:07 PM.
#13
#15
10 psi is enough to make it start. I just started one the outher day with the filter housing removed. I was checking to see if I had high pressure oil.
Get your hands on a guage and see what the HPOP is doing. It should be about 500 psi cranking. You can pull a plug from the head and take it to a hydraulic shop and get a guage made for about $30.
Get your hands on a guage and see what the HPOP is doing. It should be about 500 psi cranking. You can pull a plug from the head and take it to a hydraulic shop and get a guage made for about $30.