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( Phil )2003 SuperCrew: JLP Built Lightning block/Stage 3 heads and cams.
L-conversion/Kenne Bell upgrade blower at 16PSI/BTS,4R100 tranny/100 shot nitrous.
594HP/620TQ Without the Nitrous 1.68 60' time/11.76 @ 116.17 with the 100 shot.
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Awesome. So what would you guys recemend for a carb? Im thinkin twin turbos, ya think one massive carb or somethin like a dual quad set up? I would like it to perform good on the streets as well as the strip. Just lookin for ideas. Thanks for the input.
'87 F150 reg cab 4X4 4.9 I6 4 speed.
'86 ranger reg cab 4X4 2.9 V6 5 speed.
'06 HARLEY DAVIDSON SPORSTER 883R.
Some things are cooler than decent fuel mileage
The answer is YES but, there's more to it than just plumbing. I may be the only one on this site that runs a blow thru carb. (speak up if anybody else does I'd like to meet you) I run 10#'s of boost through a carburetor but mods have to be done to make it work. Fuel pressure also needs to be boost referenced. 7 lbs of fuel pressure with 7 lbs of boost means NO FUEL! I'll PM you a link to a site that will answer all your questions and I'll gladly help if I can.
Water injection would be a great start to keep your aircharge temps down too. Our systems are inexpensive relative to the price of a turbo system and they're simple to install too. If you have any questions let us know.
turbomustangs.com plenty of guys with blow thru carb setups. and a 351w is a perfect choice for a turbo setup. 600rwhp + attainable without the use of an aftermarket block. hell my turbo 302 should have split the block ages ago
351w can handle a lot of abuse, as said earlier, its the 302 that splits across the main saddles at a sustained 500hp. I don't currently, but have run several blow thru setups, and yes they do work, very well actually. The reason most people convert to fuel injection is that they don't know how to properly tune or boost reference a blow thru carb, or they don't want to fork over a grand for a professionally built one. If you are going to try it, stay on the small side, a single 750 can support 1000fwhp in a blow thru set up and still keep very good street manners. One of the inherent advantages of using a carb is the combination of pressure drop through the venturi and latent heat of vaporization from the atomized fuel almost negates the need for an intercooler in most applications. It can be done, but research is the key to success.
You can turbocharge any engine pretty much, but one has to make sure their power goals are within the strength limitations of the parts they use.
Turbocharging with a carb can be a little tricky for the simple reason that the boost level a turbocharger will provide generally is not linear - but there are ways around that no problem one of which is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator that's controlled by the amount of boost.
You'll generally find better spool-up times when the carb is after the turbocharger simply because fuel in the turbo resists it's turning more than just air. Once the turbo is up to speed (assuming it's sized correctly) this isn't a problem because the impeller has momentum.
I've also chipped impeller wheels with fuel over a long period of time so that's something to consider as well. Chipped blades don't seal as well as unchipped blade so I would think this hurts performance over the long run.
I've been involved in a few carb-turbo projects and where I've struggled a bit with the curve is where the boost starts to really kick in (7psi+). I'm not a carb guy so the root of these problems may just be from that alone.
I prefer EFI because I can adjust everything in 500 or 1000 increments depending on the EFI system for specific conditions. If you know your shift points this is even easier and the end result will be a really smooth torque curve from idle all the way to max boost/redline, even if the curve is of an exponential nature.
But certainly, nothing wrong with turbocharging with a carb - and if you're a "carb guy" you'll probably have much less problems than I have endured.
Of the forced induction systems I've worked on that were not my own, the biggest problem is always the same - not enough fuel.
Most people who turbocharge a vehicle as a "hobbiest" always seem to start off with the factory tune and increase fuel from there, and even though in the end they end up with a very nice increase in power and are usually pleased with their upgrade/investment/project, they're usually running very lean and of course that's leave much power available for the taking.
I tune the other way around - I just things until the vehicle pukes gas vapor out the tailpipe then adjust things down. Maybe one of these days I'll make some time and write a faq on this.
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