Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Misc. > Electrical Systems/Wiring
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 08-19-2007, 12:46 AM
rmoore7167's Avatar
rmoore7167 rmoore7167 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Roseville
Posts: 63
rmoore7167 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Battery keeps losing charge

I originally had a multiple wire alternator and tossed and put on a single wire. I simply put the yellow wire (bat) to the positive side of the starter solenoid. The battery keeps discharging. I had a local shop go thru and they claim that the alternator is only creating 8.4 max volts. So could it be bad?

Is there a test that I can do that while alternator is in truck? Im charging battery as we speak so after I get responses I will have at least a fully charged battery....Right now I charge....get about 5-6 starts then battery drops to 11volts....then wont kick over. Ive taken battery in a few times and they say is still good.

I have another question on electrical and A/c hook up...may be related...but will post on another thread...

thanks in advance!
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-19-2007, 09:22 AM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Staunton VA
Posts: 32,478
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
Get it started. While it's running you should have around 14 volts on the battery. If you have 12v or less, then it's not charging.
__________________
Dave F

1989 F250 XLT Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-19-2007, 09:29 AM
losttxn losttxn is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Stationed in Maine
Posts: 37
losttxn is starting off with a positive reputation.
Lightbulb Hmm


Though it is not recomended on new vehicals, you can on older ones just start your truck then disconnect the negative terminal on your battery if the truck shuts off then your alternater and or wiring is not doing its job. The reason for this is that an alternator produces more power then your truck needs to run the battery is just there for starting the truck and moral support like when you gun your engine and it needs the reserve power. Or if you get really board just take the alternator off and take it to pretty much any parts store almost all your parts stores can test the alternator for you. for free.


Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-20-2007, 12:24 AM
rmoore7167's Avatar
rmoore7167 rmoore7167 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Roseville
Posts: 63
rmoore7167 is starting off with a positive reputation.
oh, I feel stupid....I took alternator out and took to Napa auto parts...While he was looking up something, I looked at back of alternator....totaly fried...I vaguely recall i shorted sometime ago...never thought much of it... Its either that or so close to block that melted wires and shorted....regardless...I think I found the prob....sorry...
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-20-2007, 02:14 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Staunton VA
Posts: 32,478
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
Quote:
Originally Posted by losttxn
Though it is not recomended on new vehicals, you can on older ones just start your truck then disconnect the negative terminal on your battery if the truck shuts off then your alternater and or wiring is not doing its job. The reason for this is that an alternator produces more power then your truck needs to run the battery is just there for starting the truck and moral support like when you gun your engine and it needs the reserve power. Or if you get really board just take the alternator off and take it to pretty much any parts store almost all your parts stores can test the alternator for you. for free.


Lets not do this on any vehicle, old or not. It's just not a good practice and it's best if people get this notion out of their head.
__________________
Dave F

1989 F250 XLT Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-20-2007, 02:16 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Staunton VA
Posts: 32,478
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmoore7167
oh, I feel stupid....I took alternator out and took to Napa auto parts...While he was looking up something, I looked at back of alternator....totaly fried...I vaguely recall i shorted sometime ago...never thought much of it... Its either that or so close to block that melted wires and shorted....regardless...I think I found the prob....sorry...
If you get the wiring straightened out, and get a new alternator, there is a good chance it still may not charge. There is a fusible link in the large output wire of the alt, and if you had something bad happen in the wiring back there, it may be burnt in two. You can get new ones at the store.

When you get it hooked up, you should have 12 volts on the output wire of the alt with the truck off. If you don't, then the fusible link has burnt out.
__________________
Dave F

1989 F250 XLT Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-21-2007, 05:27 AM
losttxn losttxn is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Stationed in Maine
Posts: 37
losttxn is starting off with a positive reputation.
true but on the old ones it does work, for the shade tree do it homer.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 09-12-2007, 05:48 PM
rmoore7167's Avatar
rmoore7167 rmoore7167 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Roseville
Posts: 63
rmoore7167 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Problem continues with charging system

ok..... Im still having problems...let me explain what I ve done...

1- I took single wire alternator to have checked. I watched test. At 1200rmps alt put out 12volts...when reved up to 3000rpm put out 14volts

2- With battery unplugged...i charged..went to 13.4volts..then monitored everyday. Its now down to 12.85volts. Then put on truck and hooked up. There is same amount of bleed everyday 0.02volts/day. So I guess I dont have anything thats draining. I imagine that voltage without a load would probably continue to drop til it reaches some level...i imagine about 12!

3- I hooked up battery and alternator. Started truck...now I need some help here. I took lead out of alternator (bat) with 10 gauge wire to positive terminal of starter solenoid ( same side as battery). I started engine and took my tester and put on positive post of starter solenoid and negative wire of testor to negative of solenoid....Is that right? it read 11.4 volts. I tried putting positive of tester to positive of solenoid and to ground but measured zero.

4- I measure voltage of battery after above and voltage of battery dropped to 12.5 volts.. Which is about right....I can drive around and even on longer trip it will eventually not start after about 4-6 starts

5- I cant find a fusible link in wire from alternator to starter solenoid. In fact I replaced wiring just in case..

6- so do i have this wired wrong? single wire from alt to + of starter solenoid...thats it.. right? HELP!!! this is driving me crazy
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 09-12-2007, 06:40 PM
Mil1ion Mil1ion is offline
New User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 0
Mil1ion is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by losttxn
true but on the old ones it does work, for the shade tree do it homer.

NOT on engines with ALTERNATORS

It will destroy the circuitry in the alternators (diodes,etc)

The practice was called exciting the generator.

Generators were discontinued in 1964

So no vehicles with alternators should have this done to them.

Topic:

Batteries can develop shorts inside themselves or sulfate.

The result is batteries that won;t hold a charge.

The Battery in a car/truck is like the Human heart.. if it ain't good..there's a problem

Take that battery in for testing at a shop.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 09-12-2007, 07:04 PM
rmoore7167's Avatar
rmoore7167 rmoore7167 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Roseville
Posts: 63
rmoore7167 is starting off with a positive reputation.
i did take. They not only tested current voltage but if would hold charge. They said was fine. Actually I took in to 2 different places
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 09-12-2007, 07:38 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Staunton VA
Posts: 32,478
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
12.5 volts is not right. Get it running again, and put the + of the tester on the bat + solenoid connection,(the large terminal going to the bat +, which is where you have the alt lead correct?) and put the negative of the tester on the neg of the battery. You should get something like 14 volts, 13.8-14.5v.

If you do not, then rev the engine and let it idle back down. These one wire wonder alternators sometimes won't charge until the engine is revved up.
__________________
Dave F

1989 F250 XLT Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 09-12-2007, 07:56 PM
rmoore7167's Avatar
rmoore7167 rmoore7167 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Roseville
Posts: 63
rmoore7167 is starting off with a positive reputation.
ok did what you said.....Im getting anywhere from 13.4 to 14+ now.....So I guess what I will do is take out for a trip and then measure voltage of bat when finished... or at least see after several trips if voltage is at least 12. One other question....im going to rewire truck (its a f100 56) but right now I have an ammeter hooked up...not working right. Whats the proper way for it to measure if its charging or not? or do I really need that at this point? I bought a classic instrument package and it has a voltmeter instead.

thanks for your help!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 09-12-2007, 08:54 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Staunton VA
Posts: 32,478
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
It depends on what type of ammeter it is. Is it the stock 56 type(may have a loop in the back) or is it a aftermarket type that comes with the trio guages?

As long as you are running around 14 volts, you will be ok. It will run in that range all the time the engine is running. If you find the battery is still going dead, you might have a drain somewhere, which will be a different problem to find.
__________________
Dave F

1989 F250 XLT Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-12-2007, 09:08 PM
rmoore7167's Avatar
rmoore7167 rmoore7167 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Roseville
Posts: 63
rmoore7167 is starting off with a positive reputation.
its the aftermarket type with 3 gauges. Its measuring negative amps while truck is running.

I really appreciate the help!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-12-2007, 09:52 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Staunton VA
Posts: 32,478
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
If it's actually working, only backwards, just swap the wires in the back of the gauge.
__________________
Dave F

1989 F250 XLT Diesel
Reply With Quote
Old 09-12-2007, 09:52 PM
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Misc. > Electrical Systems/Wiring

Tags
alternator, battery, charge, charge1973, f100, ford, losing, power, test, truck

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:50 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup