Sterling 10.25 questions.

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Old 08-10-2007, 01:18 AM
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Sterling 10.25 questions.

Ok, I decided it is time to update my Dana 60 rear end. I started scrounging wrecking yards looking for an early 1990’s sterling as you guys suggested. However, I am getting a lot of conflicting statements from the so-called experts at the wrecking yards. Some are telling me that the driveshaft will have to be modified. Some are telling me the e brake cables will have to be shortened. Some are telling me that the drums will not come off without removing the hubs as my Dana 60 does. This was one of the main reasons I want to replace the Dana 60. I don’t like the idea of having to pull the wheel bearings every time I want to check the brakes.

I need some help from you differential gurus out there. Just what the heck am I looking for?
 
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:09 AM
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I'm not sure about the first two questions. But on my 10.25" on my 86 F250 4x4 the drums can be removed without pulling the axles.
 
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by kermmydog
I'm not sure about the first two questions. But on my 10.25" on my 86 F250 4x4 the drums can be removed without pulling the axles.
Have you ever had leaking pinion seal problems on yours? Some of the guys tell me to stay away from the mid 80's sterlings because of this. I did find an 86 in one of the bone yards, but dismissed it because of this. If you have never had problems with yours then maybe I will revisit this one.
 
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:46 AM
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I forgot to add this question to my original post;

I found a sterling in a van. The guy tells me they are the same as the ones in the trucks. I measured a Dana in an earlier van and the spring hangers were totally different. Does anybody out there know if the sterlings were the same dimensions in the vans and trucks.
 
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Old 08-10-2007, 10:47 AM
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The ring gear is larger on the 10.35 than the D60 so it is reasonable to assume that the driveshaft may be too long. It is minimal, and if the truck id lifted at all, you might get away without change.
Parking brake cables just need to be re-routed with a lrger service loop so you dont work the cable at too much of an angle, and the cable will still work fine. Better to be too long than too short. PLenty of room under the truck for this.
The drums on the early sterling are a slip on type, and many disc conversions also allow the rotor to slip on without removing the hub, so bearings stay while you chck the brakes. While we ar on the subject, a disc brake conversion would be a great idea. Then you have fantastic brakes and will never have to remove a drum to check the brakes ever again.
This is true for the 60 as well.
I like both axles, and was wondering, if the 60 has not failed, and you have not broken it in 30 years, is it really necessary to go bigger? New bearings and seals to freshen it up would leave time and money for a disc conversion, and you should expect another 30 years of performance.
Not to mention the unknown miles from a salvage yard unit, you may end up having to put bearings in the 10.25 in a short period of time.
Just a thought.
 
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Old 08-10-2007, 11:46 AM
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Why not a srw Dana 70 ?
 
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Old 08-10-2007, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by mark a.
Why not a srw Dana 70 ?
I was trying to get away with not having to pull the axles, hubs, wheel bearings, etc. when ever I want to check out the darn brakes. All of the Dana's are set up this way and I understand the Sterlings are not. It would be nice to just pull the drums when ever I wanted to service the brakes.
 
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Old 08-10-2007, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 75F350
The ring gear is larger on the 10.35 than the D60 so it is reasonable to assume that the driveshaft may be too long. It is minimal, and if the truck id lifted at all, you might get away without change.
Parking brake cables just need to be re-routed with a lrger service loop so you dont work the cable at too much of an angle, and the cable will still work fine. Better to be too long than too short. PLenty of room under the truck for this.
The drums on the early sterling are a slip on type, and many disc conversions also allow the rotor to slip on without removing the hub, so bearings stay while you chck the brakes. While we ar on the subject, a disc brake conversion would be a great idea. Then you have fantastic brakes and will never have to remove a drum to check the brakes ever again.
This is true for the 60 as well.
I like both axles, and was wondering, if the 60 has not failed, and you have not broken it in 30 years, is it really necessary to go bigger? New bearings and seals to freshen it up would leave time and money for a disc conversion, and you should expect another 30 years of performance.
Not to mention the unknown miles from a salvage yard unit, you may end up having to put bearings in the 10.25 in a short period of time.
Just a thought.
I researched the subject of the disc brakes. If I remember right the cost of the parts for the set with the e brake was around a thousand bucks. I need to regear, 3.07 is a little high for towing a 7k 5th wheel. The rear end shops around here are a little high the are getting over a thousand to regear the Dana 60. So now we are over $2000.00 to get the right gearing and decent brakes. I just thought that if I could pick up a Sterling for $500.00 and maybe spend another couple of hundred going through it and cleaning it up then I would have the equivalent for less than half the cost and have a little beefier rear end.
 
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Old 08-10-2007, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by wb6vvv
Have you ever had leaking pinion seal problems on yours? Some of the guys tell me to stay away from the mid 80's sterlings because of this. I did find an 86 in one of the bone yards, but dismissed it because of this. If you have never had problems with yours then maybe I will revisit this one.
I had to replace the pinion seal once. When I bought it 10 years ago the pinion nut was loose. 4 years ago I replaced the pinion seal, and have had no further problems. I run Neo 75-90 synthetic gear oil. This truck has 180,000 miles on it and I pull a 10,000# trailer with it. So I don't know why mid 80s are any problem.
 
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Old 08-10-2007, 11:49 PM
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$1000.00 for a disc brake conversion? Holy cow where are you shopping? I see them for arround $300.00 to $500.00 all day long. Complete kits. I also see brackets for less than $100.00, this is the toughest part, everything else can be bought over the counter at your local parts store. Everything is over the counter chevy front end parts. If you like the parking brake, the it may run a little higher than the $300.00. But $1000.00, no way.
If you are gonna shop for an axle, and want a stronger one, you can look for a 60 with a better gear, and still do the disc swap for less than you are gonna spend on gears alone.
Much cheaper than you think.
 
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Old 08-11-2007, 04:22 AM
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I have 2 Sterling axles, one of them is under an F-250 trailer I just made. The one on the trailer (1990) had a yoke that used larger u-joints than the one on my 1985. The yokes were swapable thopugh. My 85 axle had no leaks with 109k on it, but I did have it regeared and rebuilt last year. The pinion bearing on the 90 is shot, and one axle seal leaks. The 90 axle had 156k miles on it. Both axles have removable drums with out pulling the hubs. The 90 axle also has an ABS plug on it.
 
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Old 08-12-2007, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 75F350
$1000.00 for a disc brake conversion? Holy cow where are you shopping? I see them for arround $300.00 to $500.00 all day long. Complete kits. I also see brackets for less than $100.00, this is the toughest part, everything else can be bought over the counter at your local parts store. Everything is over the counter chevy front end parts. If you like the parking brake, the it may run a little higher than the $300.00. But $1000.00, no way.
If you are gonna shop for an axle, and want a stronger one, you can look for a 60 with a better gear, and still do the disc swap for less than you are gonna spend on gears alone.
Much cheaper than you think.
I would like to know where you are finding this stuff. I have searched the Internet and this website for disk brake conversions for 3/4 ton trucks and so far have only found one and the kits are extremely expensive. I don't even know how to find this bracket for $100.00. Give me a clue where to look or what to look for and I will check it out. I have found no information or parts list on how to do this. If so I would have already done it. I have asked several parts houses, Garages and wrecking yards up here on the High Desert and all I get is blank stares.
 
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Old 08-13-2007, 11:09 AM
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I just realized that you are very close to me. I live "down the hill". I have a couple of connections for you. I can help. I also have a couple of 14 bolts with 4.10's if you need a rear end.
Anyway I see brackets on evil bay all of the time, and buy it now priced are right at 85 bucks.
I recall TSM having brackets available. If you can cut plate steel, I believe I still have a template to make the brackets.
Pm me with some contact info, and I can set you up with additional info.



Originally Posted by wb6vvv
I would like to know where you are finding this stuff. I have searched the Internet and this website for disk brake conversions for 3/4 ton trucks and so far have only found one and the kits are extremely expensive. I don't even know how to find this bracket for $100.00. Give me a clue where to look or what to look for and I will check it out. I have found no information or parts list on how to do this. If so I would have already done it. I have asked several parts houses, Garages and wrecking yards up here on the High Desert and all I get is blank stares.
 
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Old 08-13-2007, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by wb6vvv
I would like to know where you are finding this stuff. I have searched the Internet and this website for disk brake conversions for 3/4 ton trucks and so far have only found one and the kits are extremely expensive.
here ya go. complete kit for $550
http://www.blackbirdscustomtrucks.com/index8.html#6str
 
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Old 08-13-2007, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
I got it and bookmarked it thanks for the info.
 


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