How many of you filled the body seams? Did you also fill the seams inside the cab? If you filled any of them did you weld fill? or just use body filler? I was thinking of welding mine up since the cab pieces will never again be coming apart the Ol' Henry sectioned them together. Thanks Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.

 

I welded all of the seams inside the truck and outside in fact I added 1/8 inch welding rod to some areas just to make the pieces fit a little better. Just don't get in a rush. I used a mig welder.

Chuck

 

Thanks, I just bought a used Lincoln weld pack 100 wire-feed upgradeable to mig, but right now I cannot afford the upgrade ($110. without bottle). I figure wite fee should be good enough. If you have a mig you have more experience than I, do you think wire-feed is good enough? Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.

 

Kurt -

I filled all the seam on my 56. On the outside, I tack welded the seams so they wouldn't/couldn't move under the paint, ground them flush and filled them. On the inside, I did the same thing to the seams over the door opening, over the front glass, and both ends of the dash just to smooth it all.

I used a MIG for all of the welding. I have used the flux core, but mostly on thicker stuff. The flux core, besides being really messy, tends to blow through the thinner gage stuff. Most of the cab parts are 18 gage (.050), so maybe tou'll be alright. But you'll probably want to upgrade to the gas bottle soon after trying the flux core. I did.

 

Thankx for the info, I imagine that changing cab corners would be easier with the bottle too. Thats why I bought the wire-feed in the first place. I guess I need to pop for the upgrade. No telling what the bottle itself will cost. Thanks Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.

 

I did a 64 step side inside and out tac and then lead.

 

I used that exact welder with gas on repairing my Jeep...I recommend you wait for the $110 and bottle. You'll love it.

 

Hi, The gas setup will be like going from a pinto to a mustang...(lincoln 100HD)
I welded up the exterior cab seam on the sides of cowl, screws for pass side vent, head seam across the back of the cap, shaved the drip rail and fully welded it too, replaced the small front and rear lower bed side panels and welded them in and also fully welded the rear fenders to the bed side. All was smoothed with filler after that.
Ed

 

Well thanks for all the input. I checked with Oxarc and it'll be about $200. for my unit to be fully upgraded. Guess I save some money to buy the stuff. Thanks Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.
P.S. Anyone need there yard mowed, good deal I only charge $200.

 

You better watch out, someone might take you up on that offer, and some have some mighty big yards

 

And some live quite some distance from you.

Rick

 

Ok your right. Hows this? Anyone living in Richland Wa. with a small yard. I'm willing to mow for $200, in the extreme heat we've been having. Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.

 

I'm curious as to the technique involving 1/8 rod to fill; I tried once but didn't seem to work for me, I was trying to fill voids in floor seam. do you need backing behind rod to prevent blow through ? do you lay the heat directly on the rod ?

Tom

 

Tip49

I used the rod to fix the door openings, recontoured the dash near the doors and to close the gap between the rear stake pocket and the bed side when you open the tailgate.

I'm sure I used it in other places but just can't remember at the moment. Just turn the heat and feed down till I could tack it and it wouldn't melt away.

To fill small holes I use a brass plate as a backer then the weld will stick to the metal not the brass. Hope this helps.

Chuck

 

I read on another thread that a copper pipe flattend out would also work as a backing. is that correct? Kurt G. Y-blocks rule.