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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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  #1  
Old 08-04-2007, 02:10 AM
gabenheimer gabenheimer is offline
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How do I remove 3-screw hubs

I have a '95 F150 4x4 with 3-screw automatic hubs. The hubs are completely different from my '91 Bronco. I need to do a brake job and replace both front rotors. Unfortunately I can't figure out how to get these hubs apart.

Any help is appreciated. I tried searching this forum and, of course, reading my Haynes manual. The search resulted in way too many posts and the Haynes manual does not cover these hubs.

Thanks,
Randy
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  #2  
Old 08-04-2007, 03:38 AM
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Skandocious Skandocious is offline
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If they are the stock automatic hubs then its not too bad. I swapped my auto hubs to manuals a while ago so I'll try to remember as much as I can from memory, although I may miss a few steps:

Auto Lockout Removal:
-pull the three screws out
-remove the lock ring around the perimeter of the hub; follow your finger around the ring to find a small open section where you can insert a small sharp metal object (punch tool, small screw driver, small hex key, any of these should work), pry 1 part of ring out with tool and use another tool to follow all the way around the ring until it pops out
-insert 2 screws back into into the hub and use them to pull the locking assembly out
-remove retaining ring and thrustwashers
-cam assembly will slide right out
-remove lock ring; there is a prong driven into wheel retainer which can be a bit of a hassle to remove, I ended up bending mine while removing it (but I swapped to manual lockouts so I didn't need the part); a pair of needlenose pliers might help getting this out
-remove outer wheel bearing

Brake removal:
-remove 2 bolts on back of caliper
-slide caliper and pads off of rotor
-rest caliper on frame or crossmember
-slide rotor straight off of hub (might need a little convincing but if healthy it should slide right off)
**inner wheel bearing and seal should come off with rotor**
-remove seal and inner wheel bearing from rotor

Brake reinstall:
-install inner wheel bearing and seal into new rotor (don't forget to pack the bearings!)
-slide rotor onto spindle until it sets all the way back
-pack and install outer wheel bearing
-reinstall lockout components in reverse order, torque spindle nut(s) to recommended spec (not sure what it is for the auto hub...)
**I recommend swapping to manual lockouts while you have the hubs dissembled**
-coat caliper-to-pad contact points on the pad backing plates with white lithium grease to prevent squeaks (optional)
-compress caliper piston with compression tool (C-clamp will also work but make sure to place the end of the clamp in the CENTER of the piston)
**be careful to watch brake fluid reservoir for overflow. you will most likely need to siphon some fluid out of reservoir because of the displacement cause by new thicker pads**
-insert pads onto caliper
-slide caliper onto rotor
-insert 2 bolts on back of caliper

Put wheels on!

Sorry if I went into more detail about the brake job than you needed. I was bored

ON EDIT: Found an exploded diagram of the Dana 44 stock auto lockout assembly, courtesy of Warn. I added some additional steps to the lockout removal procedure.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by Skandocious; 08-04-2007 at 04:34 AM.
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  #3  
Old 08-04-2007, 04:40 AM
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Edit: I mentioned torquing spindle nuts in the lockout reinstallation; disregard that, they don't exist on the auto hubs, I was thinking of the manuals
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Old 08-04-2007, 03:23 PM
gabenheimer gabenheimer is offline
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Chris, this is exactly what I was looking for. I couldn't see the snapring holding the hub lock assembly. Thanks for your help!

Randy

Last edited by gabenheimer; 08-04-2007 at 03:27 PM.
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Old 08-04-2007, 03:32 PM
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Skandocious Skandocious is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabenheimer
Chris, this is exactly what I was looking for. I couldn't see the snapring holding the hub lock assembly. Thanks for your help!

Randy
Yeah it's tough to see if you don't know it's there. Can be hassle to get out too, make sure you don't bend it. Again, I would recommend swapping to manual hubs but thats just my personal opinion. My auto hubs that I had took a dump while I was climing a mountain in a snowstorm. Ended up costing me about $500 in tow fees and tire chains, plus the cost of replacing them with manuals. Good luck buddy!

Whoops, by the way, Welcome to FTE!

Last edited by Skandocious; 08-04-2007 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 02-20-2008, 07:04 AM
Mr. Ranger Mr. Ranger is offline
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okay i have everything out down to the wheel retainer, Is it threaded on there?? or do you just have to slide it out. i cant get it off.
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Old 02-20-2008, 07:13 AM
Mr. Ranger Mr. Ranger is offline
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and do i have to take the wheel off to get the retainer off? because it is just sitting on the ground not jacked up now. thanks
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  #8  
Old 02-20-2008, 12:01 PM
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baffledinpa baffledinpa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Ranger
okay i have everything out down to the wheel retainer, Is it threaded on there?? or do you just have to slide it out. i cant get it off.
Yes, It is threaded.
You need a special socket to remove the wheel retainer nut.
IIRC, It is about 3 1/2 inch and 6 sided to fit correctly.
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1983 F-150 XL 4X2, Reg cab, Long bed, 351 Windsor 2V, C-6 Automatic
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Old 02-20-2008, 12:03 PM
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baffledinpa baffledinpa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Ranger
and do i have to take the wheel off to get the retainer off? because it is just sitting on the ground not jacked up now. thanks
Yes, Otherwise this will cause things to be bound up and more difficult to remove the wheel retainer nut.
Jack it up and place a jackstand underneath the axle assembly and make sure it's flat and stable.
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Old 02-20-2008, 12:04 PM
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baffledinpa baffledinpa is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabenheimer
Chris, this is exactly what I was looking for. I couldn't see the snapring holding the hub lock assembly. Thanks for your help!

Randy
Most times they are hidden in the handful of grease inside the hubs and spindle assemblies. Roll your sleeves up and dig around, It's in there.
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  #11  
Old 12-16-2008, 12:28 PM
sunrnr33 sunrnr33 is offline
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This topic needs some good tech info. I just finished brakes on my 97 F-350 Dana 60 monobeam and there is a tremendous lack of info for these trucks. First the Autohub info for 97 and a dana 60 is almost non-existant. The dealer's pictures and parts info is incorrect, the only source that helped was a very good freind that is a master tech for Ford in Orlando and works on alot of Ford's experimental projects, also Steve at Drivetrain Eng. in Fla. Auto hubs in 97 dana 60's have no thrust washer,snap ring parts, so you won't look for what doesn't exist. That lock clip that goes into the spindle nut is a complete nightmare along with the spindle nut itself. The design with the grooves in the threads also allows for problems with the spindle threading. The spindle nut socket(2-3/4" rounded hex) is available from OTC, and Kent tool. Ford advised owners of these vehicles to change to manual hubs due to the incompetent design of the hubs and the lack of reliability. I will be changing out my hubs after the holidays to manual so I'll have a brand new socket if someone is interested. Hopefully this posting will help, I searched alot of sources to find the correct info.
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Old 12-21-2008, 12:29 AM
bp97f250 bp97f250 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sunrnr33 View Post
This topic needs some good tech info. I just finished brakes on my 97 F-350 Dana 60 monobeam and there is a tremendous lack of info for these trucks. First the Autohub info for 97 and a dana 60 is almost non-existant. The dealer's pictures and parts info is incorrect, the only source that helped was a very good freind that is a master tech for Ford in Orlando and works on alot of Ford's experimental projects, also Steve at Drivetrain Eng. in Fla. Auto hubs in 97 dana 60's have no thrust washer,snap ring parts, so you won't look for what doesn't exist. That lock clip that goes into the spindle nut is a complete nightmare along with the spindle nut itself. The design with the grooves in the threads also allows for problems with the spindle threading. The spindle nut socket(2-3/4" rounded hex) is available from OTC, and Kent tool. Ford advised owners of these vehicles to change to manual hubs due to the incompetent design of the hubs and the lack of reliability. I will be changing out my hubs after the holidays to manual so I'll have a brand new socket if someone is interested. Hopefully this posting will help, I searched alot of sources to find the correct info.
I have a 1997 F250 HD with the Powerstroke. I'm trying to take the hubs apart, My truck has the clip goes into the spindle nut, Do you happen to know how to get the clip out?
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:06 AM
haleyamofo haleyamofo is offline
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What special tools are required to swap out auto hubs with manuals on a dana 50? I have mile marker 449ss hubs on their way (on sale @ summit right now Mile Marker 449SS - Mile Marker Supreme Locking Hubs - Overview - SummitRacing.com) with the conversion kit and would gladly post some pics of the swap. I know theres a spanner wrench I'm going to need, and possibly a special socket..? Any info helps!
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Old 11-15-2011, 12:06 AM
 
 
 
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