I have completed a great deal of the maintenance for my 91 F150 I'd planned for the weekend... After a small buying spree at Rock Auto, I had all my parts in hand, save for one or two minor ones I got locally(when I realized I'd forgotten them...)

The shocks on all four corners are now brand new: I think the front ones had been replaced at some time: they were yellow Monroe Magnums, but I am pretty certain the rear ones were factory originals! After 207,000 miles, they were well finished: They were marked "MOTORCRAFT", and had a line inspector's pink paint dot on them! One would slowly extend when compressed- the other, well I compressed it 6 hours ago, and it has not moved. I think it was time...

I also replaced both rear axle bearings (wheel bearings) in the semi-floating rear axle: The old ones did not seem to be too bad, but I figured I had new ones, and no history on the old ones, so I put the new ones & a new set of seals in. It was a lot easier than I thought it would be... I just followed the manual. I found I have a 3.55 rear, so I'm happy.

I also replaced the front wheel bearings. Again, they seemed ok, but I wanted new. Again- no history on them, and trying to solve a vibration at speed issue.

While I was doing all that, I also rotated the tires...

The driveshaft is currently out, and all three universals have been removed. One showed definite issues, the other two not so much, but SURPRISE! They came out nicely, using just a hammer- I didn't even need to use my press- although I probably will when I put the new Spicer brand units in tomorrow.I also have a Timken center bearing to replace the old one. That was a bear to remove: until I remembered I have a full bearing puller kit. But that was after I destroyed the old one- I actually broke the outer race, and removed the ***** to get to the inner one... THEN I used my bearing puller, and it worked just right.

Tomorrow's chore will be to reassemble & install the driveshaft, and then into the cab- I have to put in a turn signal repair plate (from Dorman/Help) so my turn signal stays in place, replace an instrument panel bulb that burnt out last month, and then make reinforcing plates for the floor where the bucket seats mount- It has cracked the floor around the bolt/washer/etc. I installed last year. I picked up some good shallow 1/8" channel, to somewhat replace the reinforcement I did not have. Right now, my seat slightly wobbles.

Oh1 And I threw a new glove box lock from LMC into the center console.

Been a busy weekend!

Scott

 

Naw! Just getting broke in, Nice and bouncy soft!

Sounds like you had a good day!
Hope it continues for you.

Please Please say you're gonna use the press on them new joints!
I've seen many a day (and projects) ruined with a hammer ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Took her for a ride... She feels different, but I'm not sure how... I guess I'll figure it out on the way to work in the morning.

Scott

 

There is a vibration, heaviest between about 35-50 or so, does not go away in coast, or when rolling in neutral, so I have to believe it is driveline, although everything there is new- u-joints, center support, etc... I did keep all the yokes aligned as they were. However, I can pick up on the tailshaft of the transmission about 1/2-3/4" or so, so I am pretty sure I will need to replace the rear engine (trans) mounting. I have one, but not having a deep 18mm socket precluded it from the weekend's work... So I will replace it, and see if the issue goes away. Over 50, it settles down, and is barely noticeable at 70...

I also swapped out the rear antilock control box, seems top be working (knock wood), and tried to repair the broken turn signal switch... The replacement cam was made of craptic, and did not seem to fit properly, so I ended up putting the original back in. At least it works, if it doesn't work great. The repair cam was causing the r/rear signal to flash in the off position... Weird. I also discovered the pair of flat springs for returning the lever in the switch were snapped from age... Guess I'll have to look into a new switch after all...

Scott

 

Vibration just started? My money is on a u-joint. After installing new u-joints, you usually need to smack the outside of the yokes a bit with a hammer until the joint moves smoothly. The percussion helps the yokes relax back to where they need to be...gets them out of a bind so to speak. If you don't do that and a u-joint is in a slight bind, vibration is the result.

 

I did that when I assembled them, but I can always give them a few more in situ... I will be changing the rear engine mount (trans mount) today, anyway...

Thanks!
Scott

 

The engine probably needs a tune-up since you already addressed most of the driveline. Is the vibration important? or barely noticeable?.