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Is F-150 Still King?


 
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 08-10-2007, 03:05 PM
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pawpaw has a good reputation on FTE.pawpaw has a good reputation on FTE.
Tom, if thumping the relays worked in the past, but no longer do, then maybe it's time for a new relay.

So to find the questionable one, the next time it acts out, swap out the WOT relay for say, the fuel pump relay & see if things settle down.

If that doesn't get a positive effect, then swap out the ECM relay & se if you get good results.

If either yield a positive effect, then you'll know which relay is questionable & can replace it.

Otherwise your going to have to do a spark & fuel pressure check, when it's acting out, to determine which is missing.

You may have something like a cam or crankshaft sensor thats heat sensitive, or as you said, a fuel pump acting out. but if you were getting positive results in the past, by thumping the relays, then imo they belong high on your suspect list.

Intermittent problems are the most difficult to run down, because we have to be ready to test, when they happen.

Just some more thoughts to ponder.
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 09-14-2007, 03:01 PM
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dodgeguy is starting off with a positive reputation.
If the engine CRANKS normally, it isnt a flat spot on the starter! Also, on the newer starters (at least 90-newer; maybe even a few yrs before that) most automotive starters went to a "Permanent Magnet" design, meaning that you might be doing more hurt than good by hammering on the starter, these magnets are hard/brittle, and crack easy. Then you are dead w/o a replacement starter!
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2007, 08:30 PM
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sjniii is starting off with a positive reputation.
This is an update to this thread I originally posted to

I replaced the fuel pump relay back in early August and have had no problems to date.. thanks again for leading me in this direction...

If I have any issues, I will repost..
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 09-15-2007, 09:09 PM
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pawpaw has a good reputation on FTE.pawpaw has a good reputation on FTE.
OK sjniii, good feedback, sounds like you fixed your intermittent no start problem, with that new fuel pump power relay.
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg

Details are trifles, but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle (Ben Franklin)

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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 06-03-2008, 06:23 AM
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I have a 94 ranger 4.0L 4x4 standard with 96K miles and it has the exact same problem as sjniii has been describing, it runs great but when it is turned off and then tried to restart awhile later it may not start and after a few tries it starts. It was like this when I bought it and the original owner told me it did this and he took it to a mechanic but it would not repeat the problem so he could not diagnose it. If there was a problem with the sensor on the clutch would the engine still turn over? All of this is helpful information, but I also don't know where the cam sencronizer/sensor is or what it looks like. Would someone post pictures or be more descriptive. thanks
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-02-2008, 07:17 AM
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coldshadowin is starting off with a positive reputation.
1999 4.0L 5 speed 4x4 Ranger

OK, i have an issue, I am a weekend mechanc so i know enough to be dangerous on cars.

I have a 99 ford ranger with a 4.0L engine, 5 speed, and 4 wheel drive.

I got gas recently and went to start my truck and nothing. Just wouldn't turn over.

After tring several times, it finally did turn over and run fine.

I got home and same thing.

Here is a list of things i have done.

When i turn the key over to start i do not hear any clicks from the relays under the hood. This is when i do not have the clutch pedal pushed in.

When i push the clutch pedal in, and try to start, i hear the starter relay click in the hood but nothing happens.

I changed the battery, put a brand new one it and same thing.

so i get a test light out and pull the starter off.

I have power going to the soleniod when the key is turned over. So i am getting power to the starter and solenoid.

I took the starter in and had it tested. Of course it test fine and both parts stores confirmed the starter worked.

I know the engine is not locked up, i can push the truck down the rode and pop the clutch and she'll fire right up.

Any help would be great.

thanks
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old Yesterday, 11:20 PM
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johnnnydodgeram is starting off with a positive reputation.
engine cranks but wont start suggestion

2003 Mazda B4000 5-SP (same as Ford Ranger)

Ive read thread after thread on this subject. Having finally solved the problem on my truck I thought I’d offer some info:

Problem: engine cranks fine but wont start. Sometimes cuts out while driving and then wont restart. It will go for a month or two without symptoms and then suddenly the problem re-appears.

Solution: Fuel cut-off switch


On the passengers side, interior firewall there’s a fuel cut-off switch. Pull back the top edge of the carpet and its there, right under the dash. On some older models its in the passengers kick panel.

On this switch there’s a red button. Its designed to cut off fuel in the event of a crash to avoid fires. Press the button, and it resets.

On my truck, the switch was fine, but the terminals were corroded. They were actually grounding out, to the point where there was a small burn on the backside of the carpet.

A closeup inspection of the wiring connection revealed massive corrosion. One would not expect any corrosion in the interior of a truck only 5 years old!

I stripped the wires, cleaned them, and re-inserted them into the connector. Voila, problem solved for good!


This was a very tough problem to troubleshoot. At one point, I was going to give the truck an exorcism for Demon possession, as the problem would only occur when I had a passenger. I could go for a month without a problem, until I picked someone up. Of course, its because having a passenger, especially a tall one, would pull the carpet over cut-off switch and cause it to short.

Whew. I hope this helps someone out there who has to go through the same problem.

Last edited by johnnnydodgeram : Yesterday at 11:25 PM. Reason: I cut and pasted from Word and the formatting was messed up in plain text
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old Today, 09:22 AM
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pawpaw has a good reputation on FTE.pawpaw has a good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by coldshadowin View Post
OK, i have an issue, I am a weekend mechanc so i know enough to be dangerous on cars.

I have a 99 ford ranger with a 4.0L engine, 5 speed, and 4 wheel drive.

I got gas recently and went to start my truck and nothing. Just wouldn't turn over.

After tring several times, it finally did turn over and run fine.

I got home and same thing.

Here is a list of things i have done.

When i turn the key over to start i do not hear any clicks from the relays under the hood. This is when i do not have the clutch pedal pushed in.

When i push the clutch pedal in, and try to start, i hear the starter relay click in the hood but nothing happens.

I changed the battery, put a brand new one it and same thing.

so i get a test light out and pull the starter off.

I have power going to the soleniod when the key is turned over. So i am getting power to the starter and solenoid.

I took the starter in and had it tested. Of course it test fine and both parts stores confirmed the starter worked.

I know the engine is not locked up, i can push the truck down the rode and pop the clutch and she'll fire right up.

Any help would be great.

thanks
This post is kinda old, but since you didn't get any replys, I'll toss out some thoughts anyway.

Since you have a new battery, the starter motor bench checks ok & you seem to have power going to the starter relay, it would suggest maybe a voltage drop through the large B+ cable going to the starter relay, or starter motor, bad contacts in the starter relay, or a bad/high resistance connection in the cable lugs, or ground connection.

So get out your volt meter & begin a "under load", while trying to crank the engine, voltage drop test on the heavy gauge B+ cable going to the starter motor & see where the voltage is dropping under load, or missing.
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg

Details are trifles, but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle (Ben Franklin)

Your signature is a sign of a job completed, autograph your work with excellence
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old Today, 09:29 AM
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: SW Va
Posts: 3,677
pawpaw has a good reputation on FTE.pawpaw has a good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnnydodgeram View Post
2003 Mazda B4000 5-SP (same as Ford Ranger)

Ive read thread after thread on this subject. Having finally solved the problem on my truck I thought I’d offer some info:

Problem: engine cranks fine but wont start. Sometimes cuts out while driving and then wont restart. It will go for a month or two without symptoms and then suddenly the problem re-appears.

Solution: Fuel cut-off switch


On the passengers side, interior firewall there’s a fuel cut-off switch. Pull back the top edge of the carpet and its there, right under the dash. On some older models its in the passengers kick panel.

On this switch there’s a red button. Its designed to cut off fuel in the event of a crash to avoid fires. Press the button, and it resets.

On my truck, the switch was fine, but the terminals were corroded. They were actually grounding out, to the point where there was a small burn on the backside of the carpet.

A closeup inspection of the wiring connection revealed massive corrosion. One would not expect any corrosion in the interior of a truck only 5 years old!

I stripped the wires, cleaned them, and re-inserted them into the connector. Voila, problem solved for good!


This was a very tough problem to troubleshoot. At one point, I was going to give the truck an exorcism for Demon possession, as the problem would only occur when I had a passenger. I could go for a month without a problem, until I picked someone up. Of course, its because having a passenger, especially a tall one, would pull the carpet over cut-off switch and cause it to short.

Whew. I hope this helps someone out there who has to go through the same problem.
Welcome to FTE.

Good trouble shooting & feedback & to hear you seem to have the fix put on your intermittent no start problem.

Be sure you trim the burned, carboned up carpet, away from the inertia switch contacts, so it won't short out accross them on the repaired conections & cause a new problem!!!!
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99 Ranger 4dr 4x2 4.0L 5spd auto 3.55L/S Payload pkg2 tow pkg

Details are trifles, but trifles make perfection & perfection is no trifle (Ben Franklin)

Your signature is a sign of a job completed, autograph your work with excellence
Reply With Quote
  #40 (permalink)  
Old Today, 10:02 AM
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matt's2.9STX is starting off with a positive reputation.
Wow, that's a great point Paw Paw! I'll have to remember that one. Somehow never thought to apply that part of computer cert studies to unintended resistor creation. Anyway, time for me to get some fresh air & fix stuff.
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