Top-center of the cab would provide a nice high point for clear reception and the metal cab roof would provide an excellent ground plane. Or I guess you could go with a "NGP" (no ground plane) antenna which could be mounted about anywhere - but still, the higher and less blocked in the antenna is, the better.
OBX- I have the one in the link. It worked alright but I think something was up with my cb so I honestly never used it after I put it on. Looks much nicer than the big antennas. I thought about a magnetic roof mount antenna, but decided on this one instead.
Yeah I am in the same boat as you. I have had them on some vehicles and they have scratched them. I have a big whip antenna on my old truck mounted to the bed that I love but im not drilling into this truck. I just bought a new toolbox to and don't really feel like drilling into it quite yet earlier. I am really leaning towards those window mounts. I no they do not have that great of distance compared to others but I will be doing mostly close communications now. Decisions decisions.
__________________ Joel 2006 F150 XLT 4X4 - AS 2 1/2 Leveling Kit with AS Blocks, Wet Okole Covers, Volant CAI, Edge Evo, Flowmaster 40 Duals, Husky Toolbox, FX4 Rims & Tires.
1993 F150 XLT 4X4 - 4" Rancho Lift, 33-12.50 BFG, Pioneer Stereo Proud Club SNL Member #10
While I was out changing my oil I thought of this if you are worried about your paint and the magnetic ones if that is the look you guys want. Get a magentic sign (I am talking about something like those breast cancer magnets you see on cars. Not that shape but that material in a square big enough to cover the base of your cb magnet.) Place that down first and then your cb magnet on that so that if it scratches that you can throw it away when done vs. having tons of scratches on your roof. I dont know, just an idea. I wish I woulda and probably will do that for my Sirius Antenna. It is scratching my roof up a bit.
whichever brand you decide to go with, be sure to get it tuned to your cb. if you want to get extra distance, you can buy an amp for them as well.... but i think that 4watts is the legal limit.... i had a buddy with a 25 watter, and he could fry your radio if you keyed at the same time. kinda neat. i used to use firestick whips. but, the antenna is only its best if tuned to the radio.
1. Glass mount antennas are at best average. When the power levels are above 10 watts, RF happens (more so that normal). Not good for some newer vehicles. Also, if you have any metal in the glass (heater, antenna, glass makeup, etc.) this is not a good option at all. If you are just trying to access the local VHF/UHF ham repeaters this can be a acceptable solution but most other options provide a better solution.
2. With CB, HF and VHF/UHF radios that transmit, grounding is very important to the efficiency of the radio transmit and receive. The shorter the grounding straps, the better. The difference between a 12 inch length and a 30 inch length ground strap (not a #18 wire either) is the difference between able to transmit and not transmit. The strap MUST be attached to the bare metal frame or body if the body has direct connection to the frame. Watch out for rubber or plastic 'pieces' between the body and the frame. Everything must be grounded in the radio system....power leads, radio, antenna, amps, etc. This means every devise must have its own seperate ground strap. Check the ground connections (especially outside ones) monthly or as needed.
3. In most cases in mobile situations, a good antenna (properly grounded) is the most important thing. The difference between a 1/4 wave and a 1/2 wave can be significant. Again, if you are just trying to access the local repeaters, this will not be much of a concern. But if you are CBing or HFing, or VHF/UHF simplexing, a good antenna is extremely inportant (as is the ground). Position on the vehicle is also important for the best efficiency. Most antenna manafacturers will explain this. Usually a good ground plane is good (center mounted on the vehicle roof) but the new screw antennas (Carolina or High Sierra) antennas can be bumper mounted with excellent results.
4. Mag mounts are the best option for many people. To prevent scratching concerns, wax the area like mad with several coats. They make a mag mount teflon product cut to the size of the base mount. This product goes between the mag mount and the body of the vehicle. You can also use very thin fabric cut to shape, thin plastic bag, tape, etc. Remember that the coax will move a little in the wind, protect the paint from this also.
5. Lip mounts are a good solution also. Not really designed for large antennas, but 1/2 wave 2 meter antennas are perfect.
Have I mentioned PROPER grounding. Let me also mention monthly inspections of the entire system and preventive maintenance. Keep the connections clean and free of corrosion. Remove the mag mount protection teflon, frabric, plastic and wash and wax area, let it dry out, etc.
Visit a ham radio supply place for the products. Google these places.
Amateur Electronic Supply
Ham Radio Outlet
http://www.eham.net has product reviews for many amateur radio products and a good place for a wealth of information and links.
07 F150 SCrew Lariat 4x4 5.4 auto
White Sand Tri-Coat Metallic
I have a mag mount on my old truck, just used a very thin piece of rubber under it and it hasnt scratched. Go to a good radio shop and they will set you up. You will have to have the antennae "metered" for length for optimum performance. I have found that the little "shorty" buggers dont do as well as a good whip if you want distance. And where it is mounted on the vehicle is a big thing too, best is up top and on the roof where it can shoot a signal in any direction using the truck body itself.
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