This is the first time I got involved with this area of the truck. I see references to "gas tank straps" so when I pulled off the first cover plate half I was surprised to see no gas tank straps, just a shiny tank-- Nice shiny metal except at the seam where it counts!--

The underside of the plate-half has a rubber or silicone type padding that would rest in the tank's srap grooves. Dumb question I guess, but is this what passes for tank straps? The two plate halfs bolted to the frame?

BTW had to cut the crusty hex nuts with the Dremel because they ain't coming off any other way. Got a socket on one but the whole unit spun.

So, IF this thing is the "tank straps" (Thought it was simply to separate the tank from the spare tire which used to hang there) -- Is it S. O. P. to replace these plates?

Also, I left the other half up for now til I could find out, is there enough play in the hoses and sending unit wire to lower the tank or should I undo all the plumbing before dropping it? (that would be a pain)

Finally, someone mentioned "the tool" for removing the sending unit. Where do you get these, Ford dealer? Is it good idea to put a new sending unit in the new tank even though the guage works fine?

Thanks!!

 

When you say plate, do you mean your tank has a skid plate underneath it? If so, then the skid plate takes the place of the lower straps and there are only upper straps which keep the tank from hitting the underside of the bed. This is the arrangement on my Bronco, which has skid plates on the tank and the xfer case.

I just had the tank out of my Bronco this past weekend to replace the sending unit, so I am very familiar with the area. I unhooked the pressure and return lines with the tank in the truck. I then lowered the tank down enough to get my hand on top and pop out the vent tube fitting (just presses into a rubber grommet). I fed the electrical wires up over the frame to make enough slack so I could lower the tank down further until I could actually see the connector and then popped it off. Oh yeah don't forget to release the filler hose from the filler tube before you lower the tank.

You probably don't need to replace the sender, but I would replace the brass float, which seems to be the most common fail point for the gauge.

The only tool I have ever used on any of these is a big flat-blade screwdriver and a hammer to spin the locking ring around. Be aware your truck has the In Tank Reservoir (ITR) pump so when you remove the "sending unit" a big old fuel pump is going to come with it. Be sure to blow off the top of the tank before you pull the pump/sender out so you don't get dirt in the tank.

 

Funny you should ask.

As soon as I cool down some, I'm going back out to put the bed back over my 1994.

With the bed off, you really see things in a different perspective.

I just repaired and replaced my mid tank and removed my rear tank for a bit while I recondition or swap it. On mine there are two conventional type straps above the tank and then two sturdy rails/brackets holding it in from the bottom. Because of the access we had from above with the bed off, I wraped two rope straps around the frame rails and the tank to catch it when it fell, but was pleasingly surprized to find that it won't fall down because the seam flares retain it at the bottom edges of the frame rails. The tank has to be tilted up on the exaust side then drops down on the drivers side first to clear the tail pipe.

Thank god the frame rails caught the tank because I took it to be empty and it actually had 16 gallons of varnish in it and my brother was beneath it. The rear tank hadn't been used for over ten years according to the previous owners and I always thought it was do to leaking.

The adjustments on the upper straps are on the front side into the cross rail that is just above and behind the rear axel. I wouldn't advise messing with those unless you intend to replace them, it's pretty rusty up there.

The gas lines and electrical connector are not long enough for the tank to drop to the ground. You should have have something underneath it so that when it drops the top is only a few inches below the bottom of the frame rails.

After having pulled the bed, I strongly suggest that as the best way to service the tanks, because you can descale the rust off of everything and really see to check out brake and gas line routing ect along the rails.

Have fun !!!!!

 

(Quote edited)

OK, well, I'd love to remove the bed and get all those barnicles off the frame and check out the fuel lines-- the brake lines are already replaced, one by annoying one- Now all new except way up under the driver's feet at the junction box, so-to-speak.

However that looks like a minimum 2-man job, plus back at it with rusty bolts.. Seen posts about oval heads and so forth.

Anyway this is a single-tank truck, and looks like the drop-down idea is the way for me to go at this point in time.. Perhaps I'll check into the bed-pulling threads in the future because getting at and treating the scale will be of great benefit to that truck

Thanks!!

 

Hi,

Thanks!

I am guessing that is a skid plate. 2 halves, each bolts to its own side of the frame rails with the gas tank crammed right up in there. When assembled, they cover the whole gas tank except an oval-shaped hole in the middle.
Also there are no other lower straps inside.

BTW The upper straps.. They bolt to the tank somehow or just are attached to the truck?
Also, about replacing things, this tank leaks and I will be getting a new one. Place in Keene N. H. sells gas tanks and radiators new for great prices. New not reman or recon. Bout 100 bucks maybe more by nmow for that size tank (18-gal) So I won't worry about crud getting into the tank.
But in light of it being a new tank, still leave the sending unit alone except the float? Also how bout the fuel pump. No problems with it, and they ain't cheap, but given how much fun this tank is, good idea or no?

Finally (!) Is there anything recommended to apply to the new tank to make it resist rust better? This closed-compartment skid-plate deal also retains a lot of moisture. Personally I would spray WD all around the seam area, but that stuff won't last too long and when it's all closed up, the tank really isn't accessible.

Thanks again!

 

They are attached to the frame, not the tank. They will just stay up there when you lower the tank.

It's up to you, personally, all I would replace is the float. But then, I thought dropping the tank on my Bronco was easy, so different strokes, I guess. The pumps do go out, but they cost about $300+ for a Ford unit. Aftermarket is about $200, but I don't really trust them. If you do replace the pump, I believe the Ford unit comes with a new sender and float already attached IIRC.

We don't have too much rust trouble where I live (Austin, TX) but I have heard up north that the skid plate causes rust problems by retaining moisture. I suppose you could buy some of that spray undercoating and spray the bottom of the tank. Maybe someone else on here who also lives up there can comment on what is recommended. The only other thing I might suggest is go to a junk yard and get the lower straps (they are more like steel bars which are intended to keep the spare tire from crushing the tank when pressed up against it) to put in place of your skid plate. That will allow more air to get to the tank to keep it dry.

 

A Ford dealer quoted me about $255, plus about $25 for some sort of adapter, just last week. My little $8 siphon pump (used only to transfer fuel from the forward tank to the aft tank, of course) starts to look pretty good in comparison. And since we're on the subject, does anyone know how much a new float would cost, since my fuel gauge is a little loopy?

 

Thanks guys.. The fuel pump ain't broke so I won't fix it. And I'll do the replacement job with future in mind. If those 4 bolts weren't so crusty it would be an easier job.

--- The tank bottom is spankin' new shiny metal.. The seam up in the frame is what went. Probably some good ole grease in the seam will help, although the truck is 16 years old. ? if it'll be around another 16. By then will be too d--- old to be dinking around under there!

Oh and the tank place offers to sell straps for $35 each.. But I don't see anything to hook them to -- yet. Might stick with the skid plate and just treat the tank seams with rust inhibiting stuff.

 

Quote/1991 F-150 Custom longbed--300 inline-six, five-speed, needs tailgate, but runs at 35 MPH in fifth gear without lugging. /Quote

Lucky you. Mine's got the 4 speed. Geared real low. Lousy gas mileage, but with the 5.0, lot of torque. Suppose I should be happy with that. Just stay off highways!

 

I bought a float for my F150 and it was $6. The dealer had them under the counter because they sell so many.

I haven't had to buy a fuel pump in about 10 years so the price must have come down since there is aftermarket competition, which there wasn't when I bought mine. I had a friend who works at the dealer get it for me with his discount and it was still $350 back then.

 

I Was away Aug 1 so couldn't reply earlier--

I Will do the float, skip the fuel pump til it dies and go from there. Right now after being away a day, still got to finish taking the old one out. Before I finish off the skid plate will have to make sure the tank is really empty. Hate to let the truck idle it all away, probably get a long fuel hose and just siphon to a gas can.

Thanks again!

 

A 4-speed in a '91? Odd. I'm pretty sure every '91 Ford truck that went to California had a 5-speed or an automatic. And it sure is great to shift into fifth at 35 and have ample power to get up to 55 or 60. I'm guessing you have the straight-six? And how's the body on your truck?

How recently did you buy the float? If I can find one for $6, I'll replace mine next week!

 

It was about 9 months ago or so.

 

Yeah I know, But hey! I started the thread!!

Oh, I'm not from CA. It's MA. It's definitely a 1991 4x4 with a 4-speed. That first gear being mostly useless. Ford even recommends starting off in 2nd for normal driving. I can imagine that 1st gear in 4L. Seems like it can uproot trees with a good enough chain.

I looked at the door post. Built in 08/90, it's actually marking its 17th birthday this month even as a 91 model. The rear window still has the faded "Crafted With Pride/ Norfolk Assembly Plant" sticker.

The body is great, especially underneath. The frame has all that scaly rust but can still see the paint on the actual body. The problems are around the rear wheels. Definite bad news Will end up having those replacement wheel panels that Ford sells, put on.

 

Started to work on the gas neck, opened the door and was greeted by one of those d---- paper yelow jacket nests and 2 of the residents who were not pleased to see me... Slammed the gas door shut and was already away from the truck before they found their way out of there and started a-lookin' for me.

They're dead now Pssssst! (Ortho wasp killer)

QUESTION: Any quick tips or ideas about getting that gas neck off the tank? Probably just a matter of going in there and wrestling with it, but I wanted to see what experiences other FTE members may have had and any suggestions they might have to make this less of a pain in the ****.

Thanks!