Im putting my 292 back together next week with freshly machined heads. Its the stock engine in a 64 f100. I have an ECZ A intake that I can put on it, but cant seem to find any good information about that swap since its the smaller plate. All I can seem to find is people saying to get a B intake, but I dont have the cash for that. Is it even worth putting that on the truck with adaptars or should I just stick with the 2bbl? Id really like to put the 4bbl on, but Im having a hard time finding any info from anyone wo is farmiliar with it. went through 40 pages of tips in this forum, still nothin. I also want to put an alternator in instead of a gen. Any good places to get a bracket? Thanks guys!

 

1955/56 Ford passenger car and T-Bird 4V intake manifolds used the old "toilet bowl" style carbs, which have a different carb bolt pattern, than the 1957 and later carbs do. Finding one of these old 4V carbs that are any good is near impossible. You don't want to go there. In addition, the 1956 manifold has the choke mounted on it. For these reasons, you don't want to use these 2 intake manifolds on a later Y block. 1957 thru 1961 Y block 4V manifolds are the correct ones to use.

 

There are also issues when mixing 1956 and earlier distributors with 1957 and later carbs. Best tech source I know of is at link below. Just p-ost same question in Tech forum or perform a search.

TC
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/

 

Mr. Gasket and other outfits provide an adaptor plate to use a later Holley bolt pattern on the earlier "A" intake. However you would be better off with the 2 barrel manifold.

I used that same adaptor to mount a 2V carb to my Blue Thunder. Always had problems with gas mixture. Changed the adaptor to a Circle Track/Dirt Track style last week and no problems. Gas mixture and plugs look much better than ever before. I think gas mixture would be a problem when using the Mr. Gasket style in your case too.

 

Thanks guys. Ill stick with the 2bbl. for now. The B intakes are a little more than I can afford right now. Im dropping a bunch of cash on the head job already.

 

Regarding the alternator bracket-For the cost of the one occasionally seen on EBay,you can buy an alternator and adapt it to work using the generator brackets.If you spend a little time searching the archives ,you'll find a nice article with some very clear photos.I did this upgrade,and it's one of the best things I've done to my truck.Steve.

 

I have purchased Carter WCFB carbs for Ford/Lincoln/Mercury applications on the early, small bolt pattern carb base. It was standard equipment on some engines, and I think it's an interesting alternative to the Holley/Autolite type carb setup.

The carbs usually get about $60 on ePay.

Now I'm going to look for a spacer, aluminum or phenolic, to set up this carb on a ECZ-A manifold.

 

Ok, two more questions.....

First...I just rebuilt the 2100 carb to put back on the truck. what is a good size main jet to put back in it? I took out 48's. Will Holley jets fit in the Autolite 2100??? I can't find ANYWHERE with the motorcraft jets, but Holley jets are all over the place. Local carb shop (three of them) didnt have the jets either, but one guy said that 48 was too small.

Second... I have had the heads off for a while. I did lube the cylinders when I took them off, but it looks like I missed a little spot in one of them. There was a little surface rust (no pitting) that came off quite easily. Will it be alright to run it, or do I have to go through the headache of pulling the block and sending it to the machine shop?

Thanks for the help!

 

In a clean rebuilt 2100 on a stock 292, the 48s are perfect.

 

Its not entirely stock. It has the 5750 heads on it. (82cc chamber, 1.92" intake valves)

 

I would think that the original jet would be a good place to start from.

 

I made some assumptions on your motor and plugged them into a compression ratio calculator. Assumptions: .060 over 292, composite gasket thickness .041, deck height .030, gasket bore diameter 3.90, with a given combustion chamber of 82 cc. The compression will be 7.44:1, less if bore is less. So that is not going to challenge the 48 main jets in the 1.02 venturi 2100. Experts on the 2100s and 4100s say not to go plus or minus 2 jet sizes, and that changing around jets is usually counterproductive. Your compression is very close to the compression I currently have, due to some short 312 rods, in which case the 48s are doing fine (and my intakes are 1.92). When you have your motor tuned up and running well, I would be interested in what your manifold vacuum is, to compare to mine.
One other thought. With the low compression, a model "B" manifold may do more harm than good in a performance sense, by increasing intake runner volume and decreasing velocity of air/fuel mixture. That seems to have been the nature of my battle the last year with the blue thunder, and just finally have it sorted out.

 

What is the relationship of compression vs. hp/torque?

 

This topic is a challenge to my knowledge, but here goes. Check out this link, looking at the 1955 292 ECK-A and ECK-B head. Very possibly the same cam is in use in each case, and the difference in CRs of 7.6 and 8.1:1 is 188 and 193 HP respectively.

Most of the pre and post 1957 Y's were known more for their torque than HP. Torque was accomplished with the Riccardo style high turbulance combustion chamber, with a substantial flat quench area above the piston. The result was a fast even burning air/fuel mixture. The higher the compression, the hotter and faster the burn, which turned into power. Also aiding in the torque was smaller intake runner and port volumes which increased velocity on incoming A/F mixtures. The smaller intake runners and intake valves acted also like a governor on higher rpms much above 4000 rpm
which limited HP. HP requires rpm.

Now take the 82cc chamber heads. I believe those have an open chamber design. Little or no quench above the piston. Result is a slower burn, less mixing of A/F in the CC, lower CR, lower torque and HP, more timing advance required to get the chamber mixture completely burned. The scenario makes the consideration of power adding devices like a 4V carb or performance cam impossible.

Most all of these factors were/are in play in my case also. With a deck height of somewhere close to .140(!), the effect is the same as an open combustion chamber, even though the heads are 113's. With the airy 4 barrel intake, and a carb adapter that had a bunch of deadspace between it and the manifold, the atomized A/F mixture was falling out as raw fuel in the intake manifold and intake ports of the head, giving wet plugs from unburned fuel.

Edit: Forgot the link : http://www.ford-y-block.com/cylinderheadchart.htm

 

Have you thought about installing domed pistons to up the CR? Y's are starting to come en vogue here recently, so I think the opportunity to get some good high-pro parts is just around the corner. I ended up with these heads by accident. I took the stock heads down to the machine shop and when they were fluxed, they were cracked all to he**. Finding heads for these Y's can be quite a task! Im still in debate about building up the Y or building a more modern V8 for my truck. Im hesitent to get rid of the Y for lots of reasons, nostalga being at the top. I would like to get her running a lot better though. $$ tends to be a substantial limiting factor with these engines!